Thursday, January 28, 2016
One Big Happy Family
THURSDAY, JANUARY 14 (Happy Birthday, Neal!)
Besides the Micro Loan I am beyond excited about the
startup of a new program. Like many developing countries, Tanzania’s young
girls have many obstacles to overcome in order to finish their education. One
such impediment is the lack of sanitary pads. It is a complicated matter involving hygiene issues, sanitation and waste
management (Click Here for Blog with Details ). Girls miss school on a monthly basis when
they have their periods which puts them behind academically. At the end of
Primary School all students take a National Test which they must pass in order
to continue on to Secondary School (similar to high school). Many of these
girls are unable to pass the test and their education ends at this point as they
are not given a second chance.
Through the efforts of friends in the US - who I am so
indebted to for their sewing, cutting and donations - I was able to bring 50
reusable sanitary pads plus patterns and material to make many more. Prior to
leaving Tanzania in 2014, the tailoring women had made a few samples to try and
the response was overwhelmingly positive. The tailoring students started sewing
yesterday. (Some of them even miss tailoring classes because they cannot afford sanitary pads.) A workshop on Sexual Reproductive Health (SRH) will be arranged and
each participant will receive a determined number of pads. Those young women
interested in sewing their own will then be trained by TAFCOM tailoring
students. Nie has an appointment set for Friday to meet with UMATI, the
national SRH and family planning organization. It is hard to contain my excitement
as I begin to comprehend the potential for this project and the far-reaching
impact it will have on young women.
Ellie is not only helping me with Swahili but also
teaching me to cook some Traditional foods. Today we cooked Mchicha greens
(similar to spinach) in oil with carrots, green peppers and onion. In addition,
we had boiled sweet potatoes which are delicious and taste nothing like ours. Grated
tomato, carrots, curry powder and coconut milk are mixed together as a sauce for many
dishes. Today I put it on the potatoes. Lastly, some vegetables mixed with
mayonnaise. I am not crazy about the mayo and most everything is cooked in oil.
For example, the vegetables were first boiled then cooked in oil. Ellie is very
accommodating so we are using a lot less oil and salt (my feet and hands swell)
in my food and it is still delicious. I especially enjoy planning my meals with
Ellie. The food is always fresh and I am able to eat so healthy.
FRIDAY, JANUARY 15
Nie and I left this morning to pick up Elizabeth in Moshi
and meet with the folks at UMATI. Nie shared that her uncle was the first
doctor hired for UMATI’s northern region of Tanzania in 1959 when UMATI was
first established. We met with 3 women who were very enthused about our
program. A facilitator from UMATI will provide a 2-3 hour presentation covering
topics related to young women aged 12-20.
A fee that approximates $40 USD will be charged and TAFCOM will also
cover the copying costs of materials. An
overview of UMATI’s programs was fascinating. They have many varied and
formidable programs throughout the country. We talked about future
collaboration opportunities. They have a Youth Club in the 5 primary schools in
Pasua which could develop into a partnership with TAFCOM. UMATI receives
funding from some worldwide organizations and governments but many of its
programs, like TAFCOM’s programs, are donor dependent.
The three of us ate lunch at Milan’s, my favorite Indian
restaurant; and it is all vegetarian! We reviewed our work plans for next week.
Nie called Joseph, who will conduct the Micro Loan workshop and he will stop by
tomorrow morning. We returned home and I took a much-needed nap!
SATURDAY, JANUARY 16
I have known Joseph since 2010 and find him to be one of the most fascinating men I have ever met. He is highly educated and his knowledge of history and current world events would put most people to shame. It is my hope to do a story on him.
It is impossible for politics not to come up when you
tell someone that you are from the US. In past years there have been very
enjoyable conversations with locals and other volunteers comparing different
countries. I am very grateful that I am not living with a group of volunteers
this time because I strongly desire the distance from US politics. However, I
must share Joseph’s first comment to me after we greeted. He said, “So,
Americans feel that they must all carry guns now. There are so many shootings.
What do you make of that?” Part of me feels I should just end here…but I must
say that I will always share my opinions if asked; I also express a caveat that
my opinion is just one of many and others may think differently.
Joseph will only be in the Moshi area until the end of
January and then is off to Dar es Salaam for a couple months. He is pleased to
teach the Business Management portion of the Micro Loan workshop. He left it to
us to figure logistics and let him know the date and time. Nie and I will
coordinate what needs to be done on Monday and discuss prospective
participants.
I tried to call Mussa several times since my arrival. He will be my
guide when I climb Mt Kilimanjaro. Note to new folks: He was my daughter’s
guide in 2008 and he took Lee Ann and me on a day hike in 2009. ( Click Here for a heartwarming story about Mussa. ). I was able to reach him by phone today and he was in Moshi. I quickly
got ready and rode the daladala to town where we met up. I got a huge hug that
lifted me off the ground! We then drove to his shop in Soweto, a part of Moshi
on the west side, where his wife, Shaila, and son were waiting. Mohamed, Moody
for short, is 14 month’s old and adorable.
I stayed in Soweto for 6 months in 2012. Mussa and I
walked over to the volunteer house where I stayed so I could surprise Ibrah and
his wife, Debra. (Ibrah runs AfriShare, a tour company, and a house for
volunteers. On our way we actually ran into Ibrah who was driving to the Mosque
and would return home shortly. I woke up Debra who was so surprised. They have
2 boys, Rahim & Nasri who are the spitting image of Ibrah. We had a
wonderful visit and I was invited to spend a weekend soon so we could all get
together and play games like we used to. There are 2 students who also have
lived there for many years but they were in town. I have so many fun and fond
memories from my time there and am very much looking forward to my next visit.
I walked back to town on a road that is now paved. I have
noticed several newly paved roads which is the kind of progress needed. I
decided this was my day for reunions so I turned to go to the Jambo Stationery
store where I have done all my copying and purchasing of office supplies for
many years. Before I could walk in the door I heard Alice, the owner, say “Bibi
Is back!” (I acquired the nickname, “Bibi” - which means grandma in Swahili –
when I lived with Ibrah & his family in 2012 and spent lots of play time
with their 1 year old son.) Stella and Eunice are still employed at Jambo and
we exchanged lots of hugs and kisses.
I was so filled with joy as I left. What an amazing
feeling to have been able to visit with so many of my favorite people in one
day!
I stopped at a small grocery and treated myself to a jar
of mustard, which is not commonly used here. I especially love mustard on eggs
and mixed with greens. I continued into the main part of Moshi and was wandering
around when I noticed the sky darken. Within minutes the wind increased and I
could feel a sudden cooling. Abandoning my plans for an afternoon stroll I
headed to the daladala. As I waited for it to leave, I watched swirls of wind
picking up dust and blowing everywhere. Then the rains came. The windshield
wipers were broken on the daladala and the potholes and ruts on the dirt roads filled
quickly with water. As always a memorable experience! It was actually a
refreshing walk from the bus stand to home as the rain had eased and I do not
have far to travel.
“Hamna umeme” is commonly heard and means, “There is no
electric.” Our electric has been out for 9+ hour stretches the last two days
and my internet service has become hopeless. Even here, the dependency on the
computer and internet is evident as it is crucial for much of what I am doing.
I shared my internet concerns with Jonas. He informed me there is a new
internet provider, Halotel, which he uses and is much faster than Zantel (which
is what I have). He let me borrow his internet stick and I thought I died and
went to heaven! It was as fast and efficient as in the states.
SUNDAY, JANUARY 17
One of the things I love about where I am staying is that
there is always a lot of activity. Life happens here; people coming and going.
Background noises are a mix of roosters, birds, goats, laughter, and the joyful
sounds of children playing.
Joel, who teaches one of the pre-school classes, was one
of our visitors today. I enjoy walking in the afternoon so he accompanied me
today. His English is very good and Joel is a very genuine, kind soul. He showed me where he lives. It is in the
same compound as Ellie, Josephine and Happy. (Josephine is Jonas’ younger
sister who runs a small store next to TAFCOM. Happy is her daughter &
Joan’s playmate). We followed a route that took us to the road I lived on in
2014. I walked this road several times a day for two months so was quite
familiar with the families and vendors. I heard a woman call out “Marian” and
was so pleasantly surprised to see one of the women with whom I always
exchanged a daily greeting. Another woman who we bought a lot of produce from
also called out my name. I was flabbergasted that they remembered my name. Joel
helped me with my Swahili and I reassured them that I would be back to visit.
Joan & Happy visited my room today. I would like to
say they came to visit me but they are very shy around me. I gave them a few
books to look at and read to them. Mostly they chattered to each other, rolling
around on the bed giggling. I always travel with Phase 10, a small dice game that is easy and challenging at the
same time. I taught Jovin (Nie & Jonas" 10 year old son) how to play today. As we talked he expressed an interest
in learning how to use a camera. We agreed to spend an afternoon taking photos.
He would like to have his own camera someday.
What a joyous weekend for reconnection. It is at the same
time uplifting and humbling to share an experience of harmony and connection
that allows one to know that we really are not all that different…that we are
all one family.
Saturday, January 23, 2016
Minnesota Academy Pics & More
Lynn with the Kids
The 2nd Building at Minnesota Academy
Jonas, Lynn & Nie
TAFCOM Staff
Tailoring Students
Click on link to hear the kids' song about the Tanzania Flag.
"Green is Vegetation, Yellow is Minerals, Black is People. Blue is Ocean."
The Blackboard at Minnesota Academy
Lynn and Group with their Guide, Eric (who is Jonas' Nephew)
Marketplace - inside area
The Road I Run On
An Off-Road Trail that is a loop I run
Another part of the Off-Road Loop
The Stone I Use for My Stair-Stepping Exercise
I need strong quads for the Kili climb!
A Hearty Healthy Breakfast
Diving In
MONDAY, JANUARY 11
There was a flurry of activity today getting ready for
Lynn and her group. Although a smaller group this time, TAFCOM always rolls out
the red carpet. Early afternoon their van arrived. I was the Emcee for the
Welcoming Celebration. After all the introductions, Jonas gave a poignant,
eloquent presentation on the history and programs of TACOM. I talked about my
volunteer experiences and, as always, got choked up. My passion runs deep. The
children were adorable as expected and did a great job with songs, chants and
even a skit.
After a short break, we headed out to Minnesota Academy
to see the progress on the 2nd building. When completed, the
Minnesota Academy, which sits on approximately 5 acres of land, will educate primary
students in grades 1-7. In addition, there will be a library and dormitory. It
is not uncommon for private schools to provide housing for students. Jonas
envisions this housing for those who may have some special needs or need an
environment that is safe and nurturing as well as for those who live farther
away.
We all met up for dinner at Indo-Italiano which caters to
tourists and has very good food. I enjoyed my first beer this trip. Tanzania
beer is pretty decent, the Kilimanjaro brand being one of my favorites.
TUESDAY, JANUARY 12
Today is the public holiday known as Zanzibar Revolution,
commemorating Zanzibar’s independence in 1964. There was no school and although
most stores remain open, government offices and banks do close. Nie and I went
through 2 duffle bags of donations brought by Lynn. I am thrilled about the
Hooked on Phonics material which will be so stimulating and exciting for the
kids. Lynn has some connection to a Healthy Smiles continuing grant that
provides toothbrushes, toothpaste and dental floss for the school children.
From healthy teeth to healthy bodies…One of my friends
wanted to contribute to improve nutrition for the children. I bought some very large bags of raisins and jars of cinnamon at Costco before I left. We are adding them to the children's daily porridge and they love it, especially the raisins which they do not have here. They do have grapes, however. I will be getting some local honey since I had to watch my weight limits on the luggage and I did not relish the thought of a jar breaking in the suitcase! It is encouraging to know that the kids are grateful, love the great taste, and are receiving a dose of good nutrients.
Nie, Jonas and I had a good discussion about program and
administration priorities. Nie and I then planned out the projects I would work
on, setting a flexible timetable with weekly reviews. I typically am involved
in a lot of organizational tasks along with e few larger projects. Elizabeth
and I will be categorizing and labeling all the resource material for the teachers.
Observing in the classroom is always beneficial and the teachers are eager for
ideas. I am impressed with the teaching staff which is about 50/50 male and
female. Updating the profiles for home-based, tailoring and the children is
something I do whenever I come. As sad as the stories are, learning about the
families and students keeps things in perspective and reinforces the importance
and impact of TAFCOM.
Because TAFCOM is dependent on its donors, fundraising
always plays a role for me. I am grateful to all those who have contributed
thus far. I will offer opportunities for specific needs throughout my time here
and hope that others will be moved to help out. It is amazing how far a small
amount can go to make a difference.
I am convinced that Micro Loans are a powerful tool for
alleviating poverty. Each time I visit we plan a program for at least 10
recipients. The Micro Loan program was started in 2010 by another volunteer.
The Micro Loan allows a family to start or expand an existing business. The loans
are typically $100 USD and include a Business Management workshop. Many of the
parents TAFCOM works with did not attend Secondary School (HS) and desire a
good education for their children. I have seen the sacrifices made by these
families. Public school is “free”, according to the government, but each school
charges fees and there are expenses for supplies and uniforms. These loans,
although not lifting people out of poverty, do provide hope for a better future
for the children. I highly recommend the book, Creating A World Without Poverty by Nobel Peace Prize winner
Muhammad Yunus who developed the concept of the Micro Loan.
The afternoon was spent in Moshi with Ellie, visiting the
open market to buy fruits and vegetables and picking up supplies for Minnesota
Academy. Ellie is a very good cook and graduated first in her class at
Hospitality Management School. I enjoy her company and we occasionally take
afternoon walks together. She pushes me to speak Swahili which I also appreciate.
We rode the daladala home. This is the “Bus” system. The
daladala resembles a very old, dilapidated VW bus, similar to the ones from the
60’s and possibly as old. The doors rarely work and the money collector often
hangs on the outside so they can cram even more people inside. There is no
limit; people stand, sit and take many awkward positions. This mode of
transportation is not for the claustrophobic as a typical ride will present the
opportunity of intimate contact with 20+ people for only $.20.
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 13
It feels good to be getting into a routine. I am not
typically a very structured person nor an early riser. However, that is all
different here. I am usually awake by 5:30am. I start my day with some
meditation & exercises, and then go for a 30-40 minute run. Breakfast is
brought to my room. (I know – how spoiled is that??) I cannot sit for a
leisurely breakfast so I get ready and eat at the same time. Tea, fresh fruit,
juice and an egg or biscuit with peanut butter is my usual fare. Once I am
ready for the day I walk out my door, take about 5 steps and I am in the TAFCOM
office!
Elizabeth and I are diving into the resource bookshelf.
The books were somewhat organized from my last visit so dividing them by
subject topic was the easy part. The next step is entering everything into a
database and labeling. It is noteworthy that the teacher training in this
country is far behind the western world. Resources are not commonly available
and most classrooms may have only one textbook per subject.
We are becoming very familiar with what is available
which will make it easier to help the teachers. This project is going to take
several days. We will then meet with the head teacher and do an orientation
with all the teachers. Not only will time be spent showing them what resources
are available but also demonstrating how to creatively use the material. There
are also many reading books for all levels. These will be incorporated into the
curriculum and also saved for a future library.
I am feeling very grateful for so many things…the life I
have that allows me these amazing opportunities and experiences, and the people
I am surrounded by whose hearts are so full of love, appreciation and
generosity.
Sunday, January 17, 2016
My Arrival/Homecoming in Pics
2-50 pound bags a Carry-On & Backpack. Mostly Donations & climbing gear.
YES I am climbing Kili!!
Flowers on My Pillow from Ellie
View from my door.
Bed with Mosquito Net. I have windows on opposite walls.
Armoire on right next to bathroom door.
Note large water bottles - those are my weights!
Happy and Joan are visiting. They are cousins, Joan is Nie & Jonas' daughter.
Happy (in pink) & Joan
Bathroom Sink
Toilet & Shower.
There is a drain in far right corner for shower water.
Those weird things on the shower handles are socks drying!
The outside of my room. Better pics of outside will come soon.
There is a tent up that blocks buildings.
By contrast, on the left is housing similar to the families
we visited. Structure on left is outhouse & bathing area.
Rehema & her family.
Nie is on far left & I am the Mzungu (white person)
As Though I Never Left
Jambo Everyone!
THURSDAY, JANUARY 7I arrived safely via an uneventful, although long (22 hours) flight. I flew Ethiopian Airlines so we stopped in Addis Ababa, the capitol of Ethiopia. Getting off the plane and walking towards the airport, my senses awakened to the sounds, sights, and smells that could only mean I was in Africa. It was the kind of familiarity you sense when you walk into your grandparent’s house. One deep breath and I was flooded with the knowing that all is well.
While waiting for our connecting flight, I met a very nice couple
from Naperville, Illinois. They were on vacation to Safari and climb Kili. They
mentioned the tour company (Zara) and I remembered it as being in Pasua about a
10 minute walk from TAFCOM. We had lots
of time to chat since our flight to Tanzania was an hour late, another reminder
that I was on Africa time!
Nie was waiting and she looked wonderful. Finding words to
describe the feelings of a reunion is not easy - so many wonderful emotions
plus the reality that I am really here again!
I am spending my first 2 nights at Umoja Hostel in Moshi.
(I stayed there in 2010.) I will then move to a room that was recently built
for volunteers located on the grounds of TAFCOM. We dropped all my suitcases at
the Hostel and I showered and rested before dinner.
Note to those who are new to my blog: A wonderful woman,
Lynn, from Minnesota has been instrumental in raising the funds to build the
Minnesota Academy, TAFCOM’s primary school. She brings a group each year to
safari, climb Kili and raise funds for TAFCOM. They arrive Sunday. One member
of the group, Steve, came a few days early so he is staying in the TAFCOM
volunteer room.
I got to see Jonas for a quick minute when he dropped
Steve off at Deli Chez to join Nie and me for dinner. Deli Chez is a favorite
spot among both locals and tourists with roof top seating. The food in Tanzania
has a strong Indian influence and I love it. Good people, pleasant weather and
a view of Moshi was a great accompaniment to a delicious dinner and a wonderful
way to end my first day.
FRIDAY, JANUARY 8
I arrived at TAFCOM in the morning with one 50 pound
suitcase of donations (Thanks to many of you!). I was astounded at all the
changes. Nie and Jonas moved from the house they were renting in Pasua and now
live in what was the Children’s Center. I learned that this building had
originally been designed as their potential home. This was now possible since
preschool classrooms had been built in 2013 and a new building added in 2015.
The newest building houses admin and the tailoring center. Attached to it is
the volunteer room.
Elizabeth, a new volunteer from Illinois, arrived today.
She is staying in one of the volunteer houses in Moshi. With a background in
business and a proficiency in Excel, she is going to be a great asset for the month
that she is here. Steve joined us and Nie and I provided an orientation to
TAFCOM, its history, vision and programs. Later in the morning we all drove out
to Minnesota Academy to see the progress on the 2nd building. While
walking the grounds, Jonas gave an overview of future plans. The first building
is complete with 2 classrooms. We observed a health lesson being taught to the
Standard 1 class (equivalent to our 1st grade).
The afternoon was spent in town getting my phone and
internet set up plus making a trip to the bank. There are many banks in Moshi.
Barclays is right in the middle of town and very convenient. However they now
charge a transaction fee which they had never done before. It turned out to be
$6 on a $200 withdrawal. I won’t be going there again! I returned to Umoja
Hostel and ate dinner there, ready for an early night to catch up on sleep and
rewind my body’s clock to Tanzania time. We are 8 hours later than EST.
SATURDAY, JANUARY 9, 2014
Home visits are a special part of my experience with
TAFCOM. Nie has always said this is her favorite program because it is what has
laid the foundation for all the other TAFCOM programs. Since Steve only had two
days with TAFCOM, 4 home visits were arranged for today. I have known all these
families since 2012 and was especially looking forward to seeing everyone. All
the families greeted me with big smiles and hugs, warming my heart as usual.
Our first visit to Jasmine was by far the most emotional
and heartbreaking. Jasmine is HIV+. Her husband and 4 year old son died of AIDS
some years ago. Her husband’s parents blamed Jasmine and ostracized from the
family and her property. Jasmine settled in Pasua with her teenage daughter and
they have struggled since. Jasmine and her daughter live in one room with a
dirt floor, one small window, no electricity and no plumbing. She was visibly
depressed and shared that her sister died two days ago. Jasmine was also
recently in the hospital 3 months for leg issues. Steve & I gave her the
bus fare so she could go to her sister’s funeral.
I found myself choking up as we left Jasmine’s. It is
reassuring to me that I can still feel the same emotions as if it were the
first time. I never want to lose that. All the families we visited live in
similar poverty. However, their lives are improving because of the services of
TAFCOM.
Fatuma and her daughter have a vegetable stand and her
grandson lives with them. She is concerned about school fees. TAFCOM helped the
family with a Micro Loan and budgeting so they could save and send Fatuma’s
other daughter to Hotel Management School. She is now working in Dar es Salaam
in her field and is married with one child. Success stories like this one are
the tangible ropes that pull one through this difficult work towards that goal
of alleviating poverty.
Rehema has 4 school-aged children, 2 who are HIV+. School
fees are always a concern. Education of children is very important to all these
families and even though public school is “free”, there are school fees,
supplies and uniforms that are costly.
Our last visit brought us to Mwamini who holds a special
place in my heart. Mwamini tested positive for AIDS while pregnant with her
last child. Sadly, Rose was also born HIV+. I met this family in 2012 when Rose
was 6 months old. She was a sickly child, in and out of the hospital. Rose died
during the time I was here and TAFCOM helped with hospital and funeral
expenses. Mwamini now has her own business selling socks and underwear,
traveling to different markets each week. Her two children are doing well in
school.
Steve is meeting up with Lynn and the rest of their group
and they will be coming to TAFCOM on Monday. So we dropped him at his hotel in
Moshi and Nie and I returned to TAFCOM where I was excited to see my new
housing.
OMG I thought I was spoiled in 2014 but this is amazing!
Being a new build everything is fresh and immaculately clean. I have a double
bed, desk and chair, armoire AND a refrigerator. The bathroom has a real
toilet, a shower And a mirror! I spent the afternoon moving in and I am totally
convinced that simple and minimal is the only way to live. I have everything I
need; each item in its special place. I also have a dada (sister in Swahili)
named Ellie. She will cook and clean for me.
SUNDAY, JANUARY 10
Today was a restful day visiting with Nie and the
family. Jovin, their 10 year old son,
and I went for a walk down the railroad track (Relini). This was a favorite
walking path of mine in 2014.
The electric power goes out almost daily and for extended
periods of time (4-8 hours many times). Plus there is only one electric company
and the rates are very expensive. This is not something that is easy to get
used to, even for Tanzanians who experience outages all the time. Today Jonas
installed solar power. This along with their moving to TAFCOM will provide much
needed cost savings. And the icing on the cake is that a solar TV came with the
installation! I watch very little TV but occasionally flip thru the channels.
There are 2 news stations, BBC and Al Jazeera, which know how to report the news
and do not focus on the sensationalism that has become so prevalent in the US.
I am now completely settled in. Just like seeing an old
friend after a long time and feeling like it was yesterday, I feel as though I
never left. Life is Good!
Labels:
Africa,
Poverty,
Tanzania,
Travel Journal,
Volunteering
Location:
Moshi, Tanzania
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