Week 9 - More Questions than Answers

 April 16 – April 20

We are looking at expanding TAFCOM’s micro-loan program for small businesses as this seems like an empowering way to provide a more stable income for the women of Pasua and their families. At the least, families will be able to pay for food and rent. We hope that eventually money can also be saved to cover school fees for their children. We have decided to add a small interest rate that will be set aside in case of emergencies. One of the most difficult obstacles occurs when someone becomes ill. Unless there is another family member to help, the business must temporarily shut down meaning there is no income until the person is well again.

In addition, we will try to organize a workshop on business management, budgeting and saving. As we have been updating the home-based profiles I have become aware that there are many women who could benefit from a micro-loan. I feel that this strategy is the best way to increase a family’s chance of improving their lives. Each loan is for 100,000 TSh (approx. &70 USD) with 5% interest. Loans are paid back in either a 6 or 12 month time frame.  Of all the profiles I read, every one of the women had repaid 100% of their loan.

Tuesday we spent visiting our families. Juma has everything in place to start her charcoal and firewood business. We provided her with the startup funds. It was the first time I have seen her smile. She was so grateful. She also said that she had been using the wrap on her leg and it is helping. I asked Nie to find out if Juma’s daughter’s school fees were current and they are not. We will help with the fees next time we see her. Her daughter is a very good student and enjoys school. We will return next week to see how her business is going.

We were going to start our life history with Veronica but when we got there she was in bed and two neighbors were there. Her breathing was very labored. The neighbors had taken her to the hospital but they neither had the medicine or the injection she needed. The one neighbor is able to give her the injection so we gave him funds for both. We did not stay long because she was tired and not feeling well. We are taking pictures for the profiles and when we asked Veronica she said that other volunteers had taken her picture but no one had given her a copy. I promised to make sure she has her own picture and we agreed to come back next Tuesday. Tonight Nie will return to Veronica’s with her inhalers. We are buying two so she has an extra.

I asked Nie how Veronica could raise two grandchildren with her health being so poor. There are neighbors who provide support and look in on the family but the children are basically raising themselves. They are 4 and 11.

Ester was not home so Nie left a message with a neighbor to have her come to Nie’s house. We want to make sure there is another food stand nearby so she can expand her business.

Salma and Daughter at Food Stand

Salma, her daughter and granddaughter were all outside by their food stand and Nie spoke privately with Salma.  We are going to put a plan together for a microloan so Salma and her daughter can expand their existing business and the granddaughter will help and hopefully save for school. The money that is repaid will also be set aside for the granddaughter to eventually attend hotel management school.

I talked with Nie about the feelings of hopelessness and discouragement. She said that for many people this is a constant state of mind. It is only when a person knows where their meals are coming from for several days that they can think about the future. She reiterated that they all want schooling and a better life for their children. It is so difficult when they can’t afford to continue a child’s education past primary school. These people have a strength that keeps them going day after day. Faith seems to be very important also and I will explore this topic another time. After our conversation we had been walking in silence for a few minutes when we passed a school. Nie remarked that the children just said, “We all have a right to an education. Good Morning, teacher.”  How fitting!

Boys Holding Hands

Note: On one of our daladala trips (the transportation van) there were 29 people. This is the record so far. I thought it was packed at 27 and could not believe the vehicle stopped and squished 2 more people on. People will hold someone else’s child or their basket of produce if they have to stand. Elbows, shoulders and heads are in everyone’s personal space. It is such an amazing experience. I look forward to my rides. So far I have only had to stand and hunch over for a short while until a seat became available. Personal space is also interesting. I am not sure it is much of a concept. I often see men and boys holding hands or sitting with an arm around a shoulder. Women and girls do the same. No one seems to care how close they get to each other. PDA is frowned upon, however. I have not even observed signs of affection between Ibrah and Deborah. That being said, they have what appears to be a very strong relationship.

Children with Porridge

Wednesday we went to the Children’s center. I finished up with some pictures we needed and read to the kids. It is always refreshing to spend time with them. Their smiles are infectious!

When we returned from the Children’s Center we stopped at Mwezi Hospital to visit Mwamini and Rose. (the 9 month old baby discussed last week) Rose has pneumonia and an intestinal infection. She is on some kind of IV drip. (I don’t think much is shared by the doctors and nurses because it there is very vague information about her care.) Mwamini is unable to go home as there is not staff to watch over the or feed the children. Nie visited the family the previous evening and found the children to be alone. She contacted the 17 year old daughter and firmly informed her that she has to be responsible for these children while her mother is in the hospital and she should also go see her mother. Nie also made it clear to Mwamini that she needed to tell her daughter to look after the children. There are some neighbors currently checking on the children, making sure the house is safe at night and the children get up for school. Nie has provided food and we will support the family until they can get back on their feet. Because she is at the hospital, Mwamini is unable to sell her soaps.

Rose was wrapped in the blanket we gave her but was dressed in light clothing. Mwamini explained that Rose had vomited on her only sweater. Nie and I gave her all the money we had so she could buy food.

After returning home I went to the market and bought some baby clothes and a small stuffed frog.

Thursday – It has rained very hard the last two nights which is much needed. Many people say they enjoy the rainy season because there is so much sunshine at other times of the year and they welcome the change! That would certainly not be my way of thinking…

We returned to the hospital with the clothing and Mwamini was grateful and said they would definitely fit Rose. The ward was being cleaned so all the people were out of the room. Rose looked better today. Her eyes seem clearer and she is more alert. How conflicted Mwamini must be not really knowing how her children at home are doing mixed with the concern and uncertainty of Rose’s health.

Upendo Orphanage

New Blankets for Infants at Upendo

Amanda and I went to Upendo Orphanage this afternoon. We will volunteer on Thursday afternoons. It is a Catholic orphanage and although lacking in many things, it is much nicer than any I have experienced in the past. There are 55 children ages birth to 5 years old. 22 are under 2 years old and there are 4 infants. They employ 6 staff who work directly with the children and also have students from an area child care training center. We had a tour and then spent some time with the kids. They totally hung all over us fighting for any inch of body space they could get to.

Friday  - Went to the hospital and brought diapers. Rose did not look so good and Mwamini appeared very weary. Apparently the blood test done on Thursday showed something and Rose will be transferred to KCMC on Sunday or Monday after she has completed the current round of IV medicine. (still don’t know what it is) The diagnosis is also unknown; Mwamini will be meeting with the doctor. Nie told Mwamini that she must take care of herself to be strong and able to care for Rose. Nie will visit her Saturday and Sunday.

This was an emotional week so I stopped at a coffee house Friday afternoon for a snack and journaled most of what follows:

Laundry Facility at St. Joseph's

Wheelchairs

Mawezi Hospital is a government run hospital. Tanzania also has private hospitals but most of them also receive some government support. My visit to St. Joseph’s (private hospital) was a step back in time but this was deplorable. Unfortunately it would have been awkward taking pictures. The pediatric ward had 18 beds. They were metal and very old with a foam mattress, a pad and one sheet. Nothing else is provided and the family member must be with the child at all times. There are food vendors at the entrance to the hospital so families can buy food for themselves and the patients. However, since the children cannot be left alone (especially babies), Mwamini must take Rose with her each time she makes a purchase. The child has pneumonia and it has rained this week so it has been damp and there is a chill to the air. Also when the ward is cleaned, which is daily, the families and patients must wait outside or in another area.

As trained and experienced as I am in social work, I cannot imagine the emotional toll this kind of work must take on Nie. It is so very painful. She says that sometimes she just has to stop everything and walk away for a while. I am fortunate in that I can pace myself in terms of my exposure. Nie is only 35 but one of the wisest and strongest women I have ever known. She is one of the unsung heroines of the struggle to end poverty.

How can anyone understand this when we don’t live it? What kind of world do we live in that allows people to live in these conditions while others flaunt their jewels and fancy cars? I never knew the depth of my compassion until I came here. The compassion I feel has also given rise to an even stronger feeling of love for these people. I sometimes wish I could just hold the whole nation in my arms and gently rock them into contentment.

I remember well that when returning to the US after my previous (and very short) trips, I had difficulty with feeling sympathy for the struggles of some Americans as they seemed petty and irrelevant. I want to embrace my current feelings of compassion and love and be able to carry them with me for all situations I encounter. I do understand that everything is relative and hope that I can continue to hold onto these feelings at home with the knowledge that everyone experiences life differently and we are all at different places on the roads of our lives.

I have always had trouble with our materialistic consumer-driven society so I know that this will continue to be bothersome. I may have to learn to bite my tongue and staying away from TV definitely helps. The other day the TV was on during lunch. The program featured various new and innovative products from somewhere in Asia. One item would help with arches and leg muscles. The concept was the same thing as standing on the stairs and raising and lowering your arches. Hard to imagine you could not find stairs or a curb for this one. Next was a segment on rulers. They were made with various materials; what I would call “designer rulers”. I would love to have seen the prices as I am sure the cost of one could have fed one of our families for a week.

While at the Aroma Coffee House journaling a woman walked by with her young son (5 or 6). I said, “Jambo” so she stopped and helped her son practice his greetings. He was pretty shy but did a good job. Greetings are very important here and always take place before any other exchange, even in stores. It is also fairly common that a mom will encourage their child in a greeting with a muzungo. It feels as good as a hug!!!

So I will end this week with hugs to all……….. and these words from a favorite website of mine. (www.dailyword.com) Each day presents a different affirmation.

World Peace

I hold in my heart the same teaching shared by all the world's religions: to treat others with the same loving-kindness I would like to receive myself. I am gentle and loving to the people I encounter, and I know consciousness will be shared with others. 

Mt. Kilimanjaro from Moshi

It matters not where someone lives, how they dress, what language they speak, or how they worship. The differences that divide us pale in comparison to the similarities we share. We all grieve losses, celebrate joys, love our families, and hope for better days for our children. I value the lives of my neighbors around the world. The peace we all wish for depends upon the attitude and actions of each one of us. When I treat others with the same loving-kindness i would like to receive, I contribute to that peace.

Week 8 - Staying Healthy Physically & Mentally

April 9 – April 15

The big news this past week was the untimely death of Tanzania’s most beloved actor, Steven Kanumba, age 28. According to reports he died after a fall involving an argument with his girlfriend. It has taken up most of the news for several days and his funeral was attended by over 30,000 people.

I tried running over the weekend and it felt pretty good but the track is muddy and slippery. There is a gym in Soweto so I stopped in to see about joining. It was very clean and most of the equipment (treadmills, ellipticals, bikes) looked decent and up-to-date. They have weights and a couple work out machines. It’s not quite the Y but definitely suits my needs! I decided to splurge and get a 3 month membership. There is an aerobics class 5 days per week. I go around 1:00 and then return at 5 for aerobics. No one is there during the day and the trainer works with me like I have my own personal trainer. Really makes this place a bargain! The best part is that it is much safer for me running on a treadmill than at the field except when the electric goes out and it abruptly stops the machine which fortunately only has happened once! The aerobics class is one hour of non-stop movement. Interestingly there are usually about 10-15 of us in class and the majority are men!!

Boniface, the trainer, wants to open his own gym. We talked after my workout on Saturday. He is 32, from Kenya and the oldest in his family. Like in Tanzania, he sends money to his family and also said that as the oldest it is important for him to be successful in order to set the example for his younger siblings. He seems like a very bright young man and I was so impressed when he started talking about the importance of Customer Service. (Lack of it is one of my major pet peeves.) We talked about budgets and marketing and I suggested he talk to the owner of the gym about mentoring him. He loved this idea and was going to follow up on it. Thank you Big Brothers Big Sisters for showing me the importance of mentoring in all aspects of life!!!!

At one point in our conversation he said to me, “Why is it that white people are so much better off and do so well compared to the black people?” His question stopped me in my tracks. He said that many of the people he knows in Nairobi want to go to the US. His question was, “Wouldn’t it be better if they stayed in Africa to make it better here?” I am an optimistic realist but I can also be quite cynical. I told him that life in the US was very difficult for some internationals and there are many people who come with degrees and training from their country and it means nothing in the US. They end up in low-paying menial jobs, live poorly and send most of their money home to family. I said that those who succeed are most likely those educated in the US or recruited by a large corporation. I added that the US definitely has more opportunities and choices but with that comes many more temptations and distractions that can cloud one’s judgment and morals. It is not for me to advise whether someone should leave their country for the US or not. However, I agree with his comment about staying in your country to make it better. Although the flip side is that if you can be successful in America you will have a lot more money to help your country.  

My week at TAFCOM was short because they were closed Monday and I was to work from home on Friday. Mary, a young Tanzanian woman who is studying at the Institute of Social Work in Dar es Salaam, started a 2 month internship with TAFCOM. This is the only school in the country for Social Work. They have a 2 year certificate through to the Master’s level. Mary is in her 2^nd year and is hoping to complete her Masters. She has family in the states living in Wash DC and Columbus, Ohio!! Another example of how small the world is!! I definitely want to meet them when I return.

Tailoring Student with Yoga Bag

Tailoring Teacher with Purse

Nie and I went to the center to take pictures of the women at the Tailoring Center so I can finish their profiles. Teddy and I took the daladala to Pasua and got off at the Bingo stop. I immediately thought of ways we could make educational Bingo games for the kids. We found that making the puzzles from cardboard was more difficult than we thought. The scissors were not good for rounding corners. We tried a knife and razor blade. We decided to make our own pattern with straight edges. Amanda helped and Mgembe cut with the razor blade and did a great job. We were able to complete 4 puzzles. I found a great website for Alphabet pictures so we are going to make a book plus copy some extras for coloring and puzzles. These projects are great fun especially when we all work together. We all have ideas for the Bingo games and hope to get them done by next week.  I can’t wait to see the kids' reactions. Puzzles are very uncommon here and Bingo is not a game they know.

Elephant Puzzle!

Mgembe Cutting Cardboard w/Razor

On the more serious side, I had mentioned previously that when doing the children’s profiles we asked what they wanted to be when they grew up and many of the answers were based on a very limited view of the world and reflected their life and the cycle of poverty. Granted, they are young but ask any American 5 or 6 year old what they want to be and they usually have grand plans! We decided that I would look for coloring pages of as many professions as I could find and we would use them in a variety of formats to educate the children. I found numerous websites with every profession imaginable. What was disturbing to me was that every single caricature was white and the majority were male. Those who know me well can easily guess my reaction. Nie also did not seem pleased with this.

When I was reviewing the pics with Nie we had to eliminate some professions that don’t even have a Swahili translation or that would not be understood. They included professions such as scientist, researcher, counselor, astronaut, accountant, lawyer.  I can only hope that as they advance through school they gain an awareness of the many possibilities available. It is such a double-edged sword because the number who break out of poverty is so small yet inspiring. Many have dreams but with the priority being daily survival, there is no opportunity to save. I often wonder how people deal with their feelings of hopelessness and discouragement.

              

I also started working on a handout about Malaria Prevention that we will translate and distribute with the nets in June. It is now recommended that Insecticide Treated Nets (ITN’s) be used and there is a Long Lasting Net that can be used up to 4 years. We will be purchasing these as the other treated nets only last for 6 months before the insecticide wears off. Research has shown that for every 1000 children protected by ITN’s, 5.5 lives can be saved each year. I do have to wonder if the insecticide could cause other problems but malaria is not something you want to get. The groups at greatest risk of getting sick and dying of Malaria are pregnant women and children under 5. Evidently pregnancy reduces a woman’s ability to fight off malarial infection. Infants and young children are at risk due to their immature immune systems. Worldwide, Malaria kills one million people every year. 800,000 of whom are children under 5 years old.

Speaking of health, Amanda, the nurse volunteer, is working at St. Joseph’s Hospital for the month she is here. (That is where Deborah took Rahim for his one year checkup.) She is spending her first 2 weeks on the pediatric ward. It has 3 rooms with 12 beds in each. 2 rooms are used for children and the other is for women as there is no room on the General Medicine floor. The rooms are almost always full and most of the children are there for malaria or malaria-related illnesses such as dehydration. Pneumonia and intestinal problems are also common and there are a few children with burns. There are 3 shifts for the nurses. 2 nurses and 2 aides work the day shift. The evening and night shifts are each covered by one nurse and an aide. The hospital does not provide meals and visiting hours are arranged around meal times, 3 times per day. This then makes it impossible for the family to have income unless there are other family members able to help provide food for the patient.

The lighting is very poor in the pediatric rooms so the nurses have to take their equipment outdoors to start IV’s on the children. Sometimes the IV needle is reused if the nurse is unable to get the vein on the first try. No equipment is available at bedsides like oxygen or suction machines and there is only one oxygen machine for the whole unit.  Last week the blood pressure machine broke so none were taken. A new machine arrived this week. Blood pressures are not taken on the children because they do not have small size cuffs. Most of the women on the floor are there due to high blood pressure or diabetes.

One day this week when we were in the TAFCOM office a man came in asking for funds to pay for his son’s hospital care and treatment. He had official looking papers and a picture of the boy. He was at KCMC with an enlarged spleen as a result of having a reaction to malaria medicine. When there is a situation that requires an expensive procedure or treatment, the hospital will provide the family with documentation which is then taken to a government official who provides a letter of verification and permission to solicit funds. I gave him 10,000TSh (about $7 USD). I had to sign the paper and noticed that he had collected from about 15 other people with the highest donation being 1500TSh. The cost of the treatment is 850,000TSh. I don’t know what will happen to the boy or how long he can wait for the treatment before other problems arise.

Veronica

Nie, Mary and I visited 5 families on Thursday. We returned to see Veronica who was, as always, thrilled to see us. She had finished her inhaler and was out of asthma medicine. You could hear how labored her breathing was. Nie explained that when it gets like this she needs an injection. We gave her funds to get the injection. Veronica had also told us before that her flashlight batteries were dead so we took new ones. She was very happy as this is her only source of light at bedtime.

We think Veronica is probably in her 80’s. She is raising 2 grandchildren, ages 4 and 13. She had 2 children who both died of AIDS, each leaving a child behind. Both children have tested negative for HIV. They live in 2 rented rooms with no electricity or water. One room contains a couch and table. In the second room there is one double bed.  It is a mud house with dirt floors.

Ester has 4 daughters ranging in age from 2-14. They live in one rented room with no electricity or water. The furnishings include one double bed, a couch and a table. Ester’s husband died of AIDS when she was pregnant with their youngest. She had a successful food selling business but because of a lengthy hospitalization she was unable to maintain the business and now provides a laundry service for neighbors. Ester and the two youngest are HIV positive. We have helped with school fees so they are now current. Nie will talk to Ester about looking for a vegetable stand near her home so she can expand her business and become self-sufficient enough to take care of her basic needs and school fees for the children.

Salama lives with a daughter and her two children, ages 20 & 15. They all live in a one-room windowless mud home with a dirt floor and no water or electricity.  There is one small bed, one chair, and a few wooden stools. Salama’s daughter moved in after an extended illness which caused Salama to lose her milling job. She and her daughter sell fish, vegetables and charcoal. The 20 year old granddaughter helps also. She finished primary school and because of a lack of income was unable to attend secondary school. She would like to pursue hotel management. Nie and I talked a lot about what is most practical and economical for the granddaughter. It is expensive to attend the hotel training but it would bring a better income to the family in the long term. However, Salama and her daughter need to first expand their business in order to make ends meet.

I spent a lot of time thinking about their situation because I want to help but I also know the family has to have its immediate basic needs met.  It is very hard sometimes deciding how best to help. I try to immerse myself as much as I can but I will never have a total understanding because this is not, nor will it ever be, my daily life. It just drives home for me how very much we take for granted. I rely on Nie and feel that with her guidance we have and will continue to make a huge difference in the lives of the people we help through your donations. It is just very difficult when I think that Pasua is a pinprick on a world map and there are so many more areas just like this and even worse.

I will talk with Nie about a micro business loan for the 20 year old to start her own business and another loan to Salama to expand her business. The payments they make could be set aside and used for the granddaughter’s training after a sufficient amount had been repaid.

I really am a strong advocate of TAFCOM’s microloan business program because it includes training on how to manage a business, budgeting and saving. These are necessary skills even if your income comes from selling soap powder. A startup loan for a business like selling food, charcoal, soap etc. is about $65-70 USD.

It is probably not fair to say one situation is sadder than another but the next story touched my heart.

Juma and her 16 year old daughter rent one room in a divided building with other tenants. There is no running water or electricity; the floor is dirt; and the only light is provided by a small window that measures approximately 12 x 18 inches. The space is cramped, filled by one double bed, a small table, and a few stools for sitting.

In 2011 Juma lost both her husband and 4 year old daughter to AIDS. Prior to her husband’s death, the family had a stable income and owned their own home. Her husband’s parents blamed Juma for the deaths and have ostracized her. In addition, women are not allowed to own property so she lost the family home. With no financial means, Jasmine was forced to rent the small space where she now lives. Nie became involved through the referral of a neighbor. She found Juma to be feeling very hopeless and depressed. Juma has been diagnosed as HIV-positive; her daughter tested negative. Juma is also having an issue with her leg that makes it difficult to walk. She has a wrap and we encouraged her to use it. We offered to set her up in a business and she is interested in selling charcoal and firewood. We asked that she connect with someone who makes the deliveries and we will return next week to get her started.

Rose and her new blanket

Our final visit was with Mwamini. Her laundry business is doing well. She is also selling steel wool and salt. She earns 3-4000TSh per day ($2-2.70). We gave her a blanket for Rose (made by my wonderful friend, Robin). Mwamini explained that Rose has a chest problem and she is taking medicine but it does not seem to be working. She also cries all the time. Nie encouraged her to go back to the doctor today.

Mussa, Niece & Sister at his store

On Friday I went to Moshi with Mussa. He has found honey in bulk for the porridge at the Children’s Center. We were able to get a liter and Mussa will return next week for a 5 liter container. The 5 liter should last a month and I am thrilled to replace the sugar with something more nutritious and flavorful. Mussa shared that he is planning to expand his business. Since he is a guide for Mt Kilimanjaro hikes he wants more supplies that cater to hikers. He is also looking into renting hiking equipment.

Friday night we took Amanda to Glacier Bar. Ibrah, Deborah, Deborah’s brother, Fred and Grace all went. This time I was not the oldest as there was a muzungu couple and the man was celebrating his 64^th birthday. We all danced and at one point a circle formed and these guys took turns dancing and break dancing. They were really fun to watch and they were dancing on their heads and doing flips on a cement floor.

View of Moshi from Kindoroko

Saturday, Amanda and I went to Moshi and visited a curio shop, a batik store and our favorite bakery. We also had juice on top of the Kindoroka Hotel which is one of my favorite spots. Lee Ann and I spent a few nights there in 2009. Saturday night Mgembe took Amanda and me to the Pamela Bar for a beer. This is a local restaurant and bar in Soweto. I have now tried 2 local brands – Kilimanjaro and Serenghetti! Mgembe played pool and won.

Sunday-Mohammed, Deborah, Rahim, Amanda and I took a hike to the Karanga River. It was beautiful. There were quite a few people - some swimming, some washing clothes, others just climbing the rocks and hanging out. It was a very pleasant ending to the week…. Except that when I was scooting down a rather steep incline I put my hand in goat poop!!!!

Karanga River

Karanga River

Mohammed, Amanda with Rahim & Deborah

Rahim Splashing!

Passed this very nice house on way to river. Owned by someone with  money -  a Car Salesman!!                                          

Week 7 - Traditions & Easter

April 2- April 8

The Children’s Center is on holiday for 2 weeks so this week was kind of slow. We also do not work on Good Friday or the following Monday for the Easter holiday.

Jovin - Age 8

Nie and I finished the children’s profiles and they have been put in a nice binder to be used as part of the volunteer orientation.

Nie shared that when Lee Ann was in Tanzania the first time in 2009, she and other volunteers organized TAFCOM’s first fundraising event. The theme was Painting a New Reality.  T-shirts were made and Lee Ann gave a shirt to Nie, asking her to save it until Jovin (son) could wear it. This past Saturday he wore it for the first time. Nie was so proud and pleased to tell me this.

The tailoring teacher accompanied us one day on a buying spree. There is a Rotary Club in Alaska that sells purses made by the tailoring center. Nie had received an order for 25 purses made from batik. The batik is made locally but does not use the traditional coloring and patterns of Tanzania because that is too difficult to do in Batik.

Deborah in Kanga Dress

Kanga Wrap

Traditional clothing is very colorful usually with large patterns. The khanga is unique to Tanzania. The cloth is rectangular and made from pure cotton. The khanga is brightly colored and printed in bold designs. It is characterized by a border all around the periphery of the cloth including a proverb. They are used as scarves or to carry children on their backs or wrapped around the waist over another piece of clothing.

Some examples of proverbs found on Khanga’s:

Wazazi ni dhahabu kuwatunza ni thawabu. — Parents are gold; to take care of them is a blessing.

Sisi sote abiria dereva ni Mungu. — We are all passengers, God is the driver.

Mwanamke mazingira tuanataka, usawa, amani, maendelo. — We (women) want equality, peace, and         progress.

Operated by Foot Pedal

We are now working on profiles on the young women from the tailoring center. They range in age from 15-23. Most have had no secondary school education. One woman never attended school and learned to read and write through the Tailoring Center. Many are single mothers living with a relative who cares for their child while they attend training. The women learn to sew skirts, dresses, shirts, hand bags, purses and blankets. They receive a stipend for the goods that are sold during the 2 yr program. The women gain the skills needed to work as a tailor or operate a small tailoring business. Tailors in Tanzania are also expected to have their own sewing machine so TAFCOM will provide the machines when necessary.

There is no doubt that the rainy season has arrived. “Oh My!” it is a muddy mess. Now instead of tripping over rocks and sliding from the dry dust I get to watch for rocks and slippery slopes!! Although here you don't need much of a slope to find slippery spots.

Since I am not running I decided to spend some time exploring different parts of Soweto. I found a vendor who sells grilled corn on the cob. I promised I would return to buy some. This is the best corn ever and an ear costs about 20 cents. Deborah, Amanda (new volunteer) and I treated ourselves one afternoon.

On Friday Soweto was so alive and colorful with people walking everywhere and vendors selling their foods and other items. Friday is the Muslims primary day of worship plus it was Good Friday so many more people were out and on their way to church. I met up with 3 kids who were going to church and we stumbled thru some English and Swahili. I love the friendliness of the people. There are times when people just pass you by but other times they are so engaging and their smiles are so genuine. They will greet you with “Jambo mama” (mother) or “Jambo dada” (sister) and ask how you are?

Here is a funny example about “being in my element”.

One afternoon Deborah, Raheem and I walked to the field where I typically run. I always pass by a group of women tailors and we exchange greetings in Swahili. I look forward to their cheerful "Jambo's". I was telling Deborah about them and just said without thinking. "They may not recognize me today because I am in a skirt and not my regular running outfit." I then laughed and said, "Oops, I forgot I was muzungu and probably the only white person they see on a regular basis!"

Our walk started out sunny but the rain clouds move in rather quickly here. The sky started to look a bit ominous so we started to head back and before we got out of the gate to the field it was raining. We got pretty soaked but it felt good and I just finished my shower when I got home. It was actually my first warm shower with decent pressure since my arrival – pure bliss.

We had 3 Canadians stay with us one night. They teach at the International school in Abu Dhabi and were on holiday in Tanzania to climb Kili and go on safari. Their life is an extreme contrast to living here. Fortune Magazine claims it is the richest city in the world. It is also of the world’s largest producers of oil. The school has students from over 60 countries and all are from very wealthy families working in Abu Dhabi. They were sharing stories about how the people lived. One of the teachers has a student with 4 other siblings. The family has a cook, house cleaner, driver and EACH child has a nanny. The mother was not employed and I asked what she did all day. The answer was “shop”. They said the decadence and waste is overwhelming. I thinking I find that style of living far more shocking and intolerable than what I see hear. It is far easier for me to work with the very poor than the very rich when they live as described. I am sure it would bring out the worst in me because I find waste and greed to be the worst of all human characteristics.

A new volunteer arrived on Saturday. Amanda is a nurse from Canada. She has just spent 3 weeks traveling with a friend through Egypt, Jordan and Abu Dhabi. It turns out her friend works at the same International school in Abu Dhabi as the 3 Canadians who were here earlier this week and she knew one of them. Can the world get any smaller???

Easter  - so our house is full of different religions. Ibrah and Deborah are Muslim. Did you know that the Muslims study 4 books including the Koran and one of them is the Bible? They do not celebrate Easter. When I asked Ibrah he looked a bit dumbfounded and said why would you celebrate death? We talked some about the meaning of Easter.

The Muslim’s do not celebrate Mohammed's death. Some Muslims do celebrate his birthday but not in the way we do Christmas. (There is no commercialism associated with their holy days.) It is not a big deal because the Muslims have very strong beliefs about worshipping only Allah (God) and not elevating any person to a god like level. They believe Jesus was a great master but not God. 

Mgembe is Lutheran and attended church for Holy Thursday, Good Friday and Ester Sunday. Deborah was raised Jehovah Witness but decided to become Muslim. Her brother Fred and fiancée, Grace, came over on Thursday night all dressed up. I asked what the occasion was and they had been at church. Jehovah Witness believes Jesus died on Thursday and that is their Holy Day. He asked if I wanted to attend his church sometime as it is both English and Swahili and I said I would. (It would have been too rude to say no and should be interesting for sure.) I will also attend a mosque and Christian service while here.

The Christians definitely celebrate Easter as many businesses are closed on Friday and don't reopen until Tuesday. It is usually celebrated with family gathering to share a meal. There was a big flap on the news because the bus prices went way up because so many people travel to see family for the weekend. Sounds like gas prices in the US!  Unfortunately the Easter Bunny does not make an appearance in Tanzania. Nor do they color Easter Eggs. These are more symbols of spring and we are just finishing summer; so I am guessing that is why they do not have these traditions. Plus I am sure it would be seen as an ultra-extravagance here.

I asked if a business was Muslim-owned and Christians worked there what would happen and I was told both religions get off for each other’s holidays. You see people with different beliefs can get along. It is just not that hard!!

A good meal is a great way to end the day. Deborah and I are talking about putting some African recipes in a booklet to sell to volunteers. Here is a sampling of some of the traditional food dishes.

Ugali

Ugali is maize flour and water cooked to a dough-like consistency. The traditional method of eating it is to roll a lump into a ball and then dip it into a sauce or stew. Making a depression with the thumb allows the ugali to be used as a scoop..

Mandazi

Mandazi, made with wheat flour and coconut milk, is a form of sweet fried bread. It has a "fluffy" feeling and texture.

Chapati

Chapati is a flat bread made with wheat flour. It is torn off and used to pick up the meat or vegetable dishes that make the meal. It is folded into a sort of loose cone and used as a scoop to eat the more liquid dishes at a meal.

Sukuma is Kale. It is sauteed in sunflower oil with onions & carrots. Variations include adding peanut butter or grated tomato and coconut milk.

Sukuma

Kabichi & Karoti

Cabbage and carrots are added to heated oil and sauteed for 2-3 minutes. Sometimes onions and tomatoes are added. 

Viazi & Mboga

These are a type of sweet potato unlike what we have but with a delicate sweet flavor. They are deep fried and mixed with any variety of  sauteed vegetables such as tomatoes, onion, green pepper, carots, green beans and eggplant.

NZURI YA KULA (GOOD EATING)

Week 6 - Gaining a Deeper Understanding

March 26- April 1 

Stress and Health - AIDS and Malaria are definitely the most prominent diseases here. However, Nie feels that high blood pressure is also a significant and widespread condition. Much of this she feels is due to the stress of life. People carry a lot of burdens not only for their immediate family but also for their relatives. Extended family is very important; everyone helps each other the best they can. I asked  Nie what most would say is the most difficult challenge about life here, she said “assurance of having food for the next meal”.

Education in Tanzania - Education is the key to unlock the door out of poverty. Most Tanzanians understand the importance of education for their children. The government touts that public education is free. However, each family must pay for their own uniforms and school supplies. This not only includes pencils, paper and backpack but also textbooks and exercise books (est. $33USD) Many classrooms may only have one textbook for the whole class. The average class size is 45 students!! In addition, schools charge fees to cover building maintenance, guard salary, furniture (desks) and sometimes water bills (est. $33USD).

Many children attend without paying the fees and at certain times the school will decide to send home those children who have not paid. They do this periodically sometimes for a day; sometimes for a week. It is totally random.

Schooling consists of Primary School (like our K-8). If a child has not started primary school by the time they are 7 they will not be allowed to attend. When a student completes primary school they are required to take a national test. Those who pass go on to public Secondary School for 4 years. If a student fails they are not allowed to repeat the previous year (sometimes in rural areas students will repeat using a different name). There is also the option of private school but it is too expensive for most. Vocational training is also an option. It is not as expensive but usually results in a manual labor low paying job.

Monday – We went to the Children’s Center. When we arrived Bisura was testing the children in English on general things like their name, their age, and some of the alphabet. We were able to finish the profiles on the children. Nie will now provide me with the family histories and I will put them all together with a picture for each child.

Nie shared that a woman from Pasua came to their house on Friday asking for help.The landlord is tearing down the building where she lives and she must find housing and 3 months rent (to be paid in advance). Mwamini, is HIV positive and a single mother of 5 children. Her husband died of AIDS in 2010. The youngest child is also HIV positive. Her oldest is a son age 16. He ran away from home and was in a shelter for street children. They returned him home and he ran away again. Mwamini explained that he felt life at home was too difficult. (I can’t imagine life on the street being any better.) The 2^nd oldest is 14. She had passed her national exam for secondary school but the family did not have the funds to send her. She became pregnant and is now living with the baby’s father who is a daladala conductor. The next 2 children attend primary school but Mwamini has not been able to pay the fees so their attendance is sporadic. The mother would like to sell laundry soap for income as she has no other skills. Nie is to visit her this afternoon to find out more information and then we will go together on Weds with a plan to help her. Nie will also discuss family planning with her as we are not sure, and it is too personal to ask, about the father of the last child.

Tuesday – See Blog Posting: Week 6 – March 27: A Day with the Animals

Wednesday –Until now I have just touched the surface of life here. Today we made 2 home visits and I knew from my previous visits that I would struggle with my emotions as these are the hardest part for me. Sitting in the homes and hearing the stories first hand make it so real. I feel like I am IN the movie not watching it; the glaring difference being that this is their daily reality not a script.

Nie and I had talked about how we could help Mwamini and decided that rent was the priority. I wanted to get the school fees paid up so the children would not have their education constantly disrupted. We agreed to get her started in her business and also give her a small amount for food. As we approached the building where she lived it was obvious that she lived in one of the poorer rental areas. She lives in one room, cooks outside, and has no water or electricity. The floors are dirt. She had a small couch and two beds for herself and her 3 children.

Mwamini &Rose

Nie translated for me. As the two women talked and Nie explained how we will help, I could see Mwamini’s eyes brighten. Her smile said it all. She was very grateful and at one point said, “Now I have everything I need.”   When Nie told me that I almost burst into tears. Here is a woman who along with her youngest is HIV positive, living in extreme poverty, and now because she has housing, her children can go to school and she can earn a meager wage feels she has everything! I could not have been more humbled by her statement and the emotion behind it. I so wish my emotions and words could portray how thankful I am that I can help (through your generosity). Total USD dollars expended to accomplish all this = $100.

We walked over to where she will move. I would not have gone except that the landlord was not going to be there. It is not uncommon that if they think the family will be getting help from a Muzungo the rent will be higher. (This can also occur in the market place so bartering is sometimes necessary.) We talked with 2 women and afterwards Nie explained that the landlord had changed his mind and she would not be able to live there. She will now spend the afternoon in search of another place and come to the office in the morning. I was so discouraged for her.

We then went to see Veronica. I love this woman!! I have visited her in the past. She claims to be the oldest woman in Moshi and has a great sense of humor. She was very happy to see us as she has few visitors. I later asked Nie if she thought Veronica would let me interview her for a life story. She said this would be fine and she was sure Veronica would agree plus it would give her company. Nie said she spends a lot of time in bed because she has nothing to do and is in poor health. She has asthma and was in need of an inhaler. We purchased one at the local pharmacy - no prescription needed – for about $3!! I also gave her a small amount for food. She kept holding my hand, thanking me and speaking Swahili as though I could understand her. Nie translated and she said that she had not expected a miracle today but now we were here. She was out of food and was cooking the last of some beans over a very small wood grill. The pieces of wood were barely an inch in diameter and cooking beans takes a long time. Hard to imagine this to be very appetizing.

I returned to Ibrah’s emotionally drained. There was no electricity so I decided to read and immediately fell asleep for a solid hour and a half nap. Deborah and I then visited her brother Fred and his fiancé, Grace. They live about a block away. We had Orange Fanta and popcorn! I shared that in the US we have microwave popcorn which they found truly fascinating. We played spoons again and I also learned that Mr. Bean and Tom & Jerry cartoons are very popular here!!! Fred has some Mr. Bean DVD’s and promised us a movie night. He currently has no electricity. The country’s electric operates on a voucher system. Fred’s landlord collects the electric bill money from the tenants and then buys the vouchers. He collected the money from the tenants a week ago and has not paid the bill so no one has electric. The crazy part is that the landlord lives there too. They were to have a meeting with him that evening.

It is David’s birthday today so we all went back to the house and sang happy birthday outside David’s window and then visited for a while. We are having a threefold celebration on Friday for David’s birthday, his farewell on Saturday (David is going to Uganda for a farm project for a month.), and my birthday on Saturday!!

Thursday – Mwamini came to the office shortly after I arrived. She paid the school fees for her children and provided us with the receipts. She also explained that she will be moving into the 2 bedrooms we saw yesterday. Apparently the women we met yesterday told her the unit wasn’t available because they were leery about her son. Some of Mwamini’s friends and one of the area leaders talked with the women to reassure them that there were no safety issues. All has been resolved so Mwmini can move in. We gave her the rent money and provided her with the funds to buy the laundry soap to start her business. She was again very grateful and her smile reflected her gratitude. We will visit her periodically to see how things are going and have promised to supply the family with some multivitamins.

Nie and I completed the family history part of the Children’s profiles. I knew this would be difficult because I had read these as part of my orientation in 2009. The most heart wrenching part is the repetitiveness. So much of the living environment is the same – single mothers, 4-5 children, children living with grandparents, HIV/AIDS, parents deceased due to AIDS, 1 or 2 rooms rented. I can feel Nie’s pain as she shares these stories.

I ask a lot of questions and Nie is always patient with me, educating me and trying to help my “western-influenced” mind grasp the why’s and how’s of a life that is so far removed from what I have known. I often wonder and marvel at my life. Why was I born into the circumstances that gave me so many opportunities and privileges? Why have I been so blessed?

The following are some snippets from a few of the children’s profiles. But first some more info on life here that may answer some questions from the profiles.

Marketplace & Food Vendors

There is one market in Moshi that opens very early for the farmers who arrive to sell their food to those who work in the various market places.  Those who sell on the streets or near their home buy from the marketplace. So all are dependent on what the farmers can offer.

Some children answered that porridge was their favorite thing about school. For some this may be the only meal they have that day.

Divorce & Child Support

It is common that when a woman with children remarries, the new husband will refuse to allow the children to stay with them. Many children are being raised by relatives as a result of this. However, more and more women are choosing to stay with their children rather than get in this type of situation. Most struggle financially because they have made this choice. Very few men will provide support if they do not live with their children. Women can try to get support but the process is very tedious and long and is rarely successful. Younger women who experience pregnancy outside of marriage run into the problem of the man refusing to accept the responsibility of being the father. DNA tests are very expensive. The existing laws that dictate child support amounts date back to the 70’s, only requiring the father to pay 1000 Tsh (Tsh are Tanzania Shillings) per month per child. (This would be about 65 cents.) It is barely worth the hassle.

Rice Fields

Rice Field

Many who do not have a means to support themselves will work in the rice fields. From preparing the field to harvest is typically a 3 month process. People are hired as casual labor to till the fields by hoe; to plant the rice; to weed and finally to harvest and cut the rice. Pay is per day dependent on how much one gets done. Hours do not matter; pay is based on the area tilled, planted or weeded or the number of bags filled from cutting the rice. It can take all day to cut and harvest one bag full; a strong person might be able to do two bags. The pay averages 1000 Tsh (65 cents) per bag.

Wanahamisi - age 4

FAMILY HISTORY: Wanahamisi lives with her aunt who is a single mother with 2 children. Wanahamisi parents separated and when her mother remarried the stepfather did not want her living with them. Her mother and stepfather have 2 children. The mother does visit Wanahamisi. Her aunt works as a casual laborer in the rice field to provide support. They rent a 2 room house.

FAVORITE ANIMAL: Goat.  FAVORITE COLOR: Black. WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT SCHOOL? I like the porridge. WHAT DO YOU WANT BE WHEN YOU GROW UP? I want to be a farmer.

Asia - age 5

FAMILY HISTORY: Asia lives with her mother and one older brother. Her mother was physically abused by the father and she left him in February 2009. Her mother sells 2^nd hand clothing through a loan provided by TAFCOM.

FAVORITE ANIMAL: Chicken. FAVORITE COLOR: Red. WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT SCHOOL? I like reading. WHAT DO YOU WANT BE WHEN YOU GROW UP? I want to be a teacher.

Juma - age 5

FAMILY HISTORY: Juma lives with his mother and 5 siblings. The 3 oldest children have the same father. However, the 3 youngest each have a different father. No one has been tested for HIV/AIDS. Juma’s mother sells vegetables or works in the rice fields. The family lives in 2 room, rented housing.

FAVORITE ANIMAL: Donkey. FAVORITE COLOR: Black. WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT SCHOOL? I like singing. WHAT DO YOU WANT BE WHEN YOU GROW UP? I want to be a miller of corn.

Kidugu Traditional Dance

Acrobatics

Friday – David, Deborah, Raheem and I attended a fundraiser at the Salama Center (for orphans and street children). The children did some traditional dances and songs and the boys performed acrobatics. There was a great lunch and then more music and dancing. The electric slide was the dance for most of the music!!!

Cake Decorating is not in my future!

We had a great dinner that started with dessert - a banana Birthday cake made by David and covered in Hershey's Chocolate syrup topped with Chocolate ripple ice cream and peanuts!!

Saturday - HOW I SPENT MY BIRTHDAY

Unfortunately this was my first miserable day here. It started with David leaving this morning. He is heading to Uganda to do farm work. We will all miss him. He was a lot of fun and so easy to get along with. It was easier for me to understand Tanzanian English than his accent!! We all had many laughs over the way he pronounced words.

After he left I went for my run. I decided to push myself a little because I knew the day would not be very productive. It has become routine that there is no electricity on Saturdays until about 6pm.

So I am literally about 10 steps from finishing 5 miles and I stumble (which is common considering how rocky the track is, however, I have become more focused on where I place each step) but this time I fall. I scraped both hands and went down hard on my left knee and elbow. I got up as quickly as I could, dusted off some of the dirt and saw that both my knee and elbow were bleeding. I arrived home and although we have water now due to the new tank, my shower is plugged up and needs a plumber. I filled my trusty bucket and proceeded to wash off all the dirt and blood. I had an egg size knot on an already swollen knee and a slightly smaller knot on my elbow. I smeared myself with Neosporin. I went to the house and Deborah found a chunk of cheese in the freezer that was still mildly cold. It was pretty worthless. The electric was out all day so there was no opportunity to ice myself. I spent most of the day with my leg propped up reading.

There were several highlights to my day, however. In the afternoon Deborah came to my room and gave me 2 bracelets she got for my birthday. I like them very much and they are extra special because she gave them to me. Deborah and I have become very close and I love her dearly.

That evening a couple from Michigan came over for dinner. She was a Cross Cultural Solutions volunteer in 2007 when Ibrah worked there and had returned with her husband for a vacation before heading to northeastern Tanzania to do a medical internship. They will then move to Georgia where she will do her residency at Emory. They had visited both Zanzibar and Victoria Falls which are on my bucket list for this trip so they were able to provide me with some great information on where to stay and things to do when I go.

I also received many kind emails and notes on Facebook for my birthday. THANK YOU!!

Sunday – was going to go on the bi-monthly hike today but yesterday’s fall put a halt to that. Spent the day being nice to myself and doing nothing!