Special Moments, Special Memories

JULY 10, Thursday

From now until I leave my focus at TAFCOM is the fundraiser and organizing files and resources in the office. Afternoon visits to Moshi to make copies and promote the fundraiser finish out my days. Almost immediately after arriving in Moshi this afternoon, the power went out. I had a sizeable amount of copying to do in a limited amount of time. I rearranged my schedule and took care of other errands. Abba’s Bakery is near the Jambo Stationery store so I stopped there for a quick lunch and the electric returned. I double checked with Alice as I walked into Jambo that the electric was ok and then spent a solid hour and a half working at Jambo. The minute I announced that I was finished and pulled my flash drive out of the computer the electric went out again. I then remembered 2 pictures I forgot to copy and as soon as I mentioned that to Alice the power came back on. We all had a good laugh over the uncanny relationship of my statements and the electric power. I decided not to press my luck since I knew I would be back again tomorrow and was on my way to meet up with Mussa.

Mussa has a Kili climb this weekend and will not be back before I leave. We met at Uhura park and shared juice and samosas (vegetable and/or meet stuffed pastry). He was delighted to receive the baby clothes and promised to email pictures of the baby.

When I arrived home Mary surprised Neema and I by cooking dinner for us. We devoured cooked bananas (plantains) and avocado salad with mango. The three of us have established a tradition of clinking our glasses or plates and saying “Pamoja” at each meal. Pamoja would be the equivalent of “Cheers” but translated means “Together”.

JULY 11, Friday

The entire day was spent at the office and in town working on the fundraiser. Nie and Jonas plus their children and John came over for dinner in the evening. I felt bad I could not help Neema but we worked right up to dinner time. It was a productive work day and a relaxing dinner.

JULY 12, Saturday

Girls night! I am meeting Jenn in town and she is coming to Pasua for a sleepover. Mary, Neema and Bisura are all joining us for food and games. Knowing this is my last weekend I wanted to visit as many people as possible to bid farewell. I left early for Moshi to finish some tasks. I stopped at Abba’s to buy treats for the women at Jambo Stationery as well as the staff at Semapi Fitness. Jenn attended a couple of their classes and from the description of how sore she was it sounded like they are still as intense as ever. I met Jenn at Sempai. We visited with John and then he walked us over to Boniface’s house. It was then that we learned he was married and had a 3 month old baby. The people here are pretty private about relationships so this was quite a surprise. We met his wife and baby, Sara. Boniface was so loving with his daughter; you could tell he was a proud papa.  

Jenn and I arrived in Pasua late afternoon. I took a detour over to the medical supply store. My knee was not improving and I decided to try an antibiotic since I could still feel a warm spot on my knee. Also my stomach was feeling queasy on and off so I figured one of the two would be improved by an antibiotic. I visit this store for any medical need. The woman who runs it has a beautiful smile and we always talk as I pass her shop on my daily walk to TAFCOM. She has helped me with my Kiswahili and taught me how to say “God Bless You” so I was not surprised when she took the antibiotics, covered them with her hands and said a prayer for my health. Several years ago I may have found this discomforting but I have learned that many here, both Christian and Muslim, have a very strong faith. More importantly, I have observed and been the recipient of their genuine kindness and generous spirit. Some are openly expressive and it is not uncommon to hear a “God Bless You” or “If God is willing” as a response.

Bisura came over and joined Neema, Mary, Jenn and me in games of Spoon Fighting, Phase 10 and Cheat, a card game Jenn taught us. I am going to miss these women so much. I have mentioned how our compound sounds like an echo chamber and every noise is so amplified. The laughter and shouting from the 5 of us could probably be heard for blocks and made up for all the mornings I have been woken up at 5am.

JULY 13, Sunday

It was a leisurely morning and Jenn and I slept in. When Neema returned from church we had a light snack and then took a walk along the railroad tracks. Jenn had never seen this route and was thoroughly captivated by the beauty.

JULY 14, Monday

Today we finalized all the last minute details for the fundraiser and packed up the items we would need. There was some copying that needed to be completed so I spent the afternoon in town. I did not realize until I returned home that I had left my folder of copies at Jambo Stationery. I also ran out of time in Moshi so was unable to go to Shah Industries.

That night Neema and Mary presented me with a beautiful Khanga. I gave them a few small gifts and said their pictures would be ready tomorrow since I left them in town. We had taken some group pictures and they each picked their two favorites.

JULY 15, Tuesday

I contacted Nie about going to Moshi before coming to the office. I left early and retrieved my folder of copies. Shah Industries is on the opposite side of Moshi so I decided to splurge and take a taxi to save time. As I am talking to my taxi driver it turns out he is good friends of Jonas and Nie. I spent too much time at Shah Industries. They had beautiful items and I wanted to not only buy things for Lynn’s fundraiser but also pick up a few farewell gifts.

Shah Industries is located about a half mile from town so I was unsure where to pick up the daladala to return to Pasua. I asked a group of women and they showed me a spot nearby. As I waited a young man joined me and confirmed this was an actual stop. We talked while waiting about 10 minutes. There is a safari tour company and hotel in Pasua and one of their vans stopped in front of us. The man I had been talking to motioned me to follow him stating the driver was his friend and he would take us to Pasua. This is not something I would ever do in the states but here I felt totally safe.

I made it to TAFCOM later than I wanted. We were in good shape for the fundraiser. Jenn was also helping us set up so we picked her up at 4 and headed to Aventure, the site of our fundraiser. It is a large restaurant with a stage, dance floor, room for a buffet and plenty of space for the vendors. Jonas asked me to speak about TAFCOM’s programs and my experience as a volunteer. I enjoy public speaking and when it is a topic that is as close to my heart as TAFCOM it feels very natural.

Close to 50 people attended and we made a decent profit. The attendees were primarily volunteers and all their comments were positive. The food was good and plentiful; people danced and the vendors and tailoring women sold products. It is very impressive to me that this event was pulled off in 8 days time.

JULY 16, Tuesday

I got up very early to sort and pack. I am giving away almost all the clothes I brought. It is funny how attached you can get to things. I purposefully brought clothes that I knew I no longer wanted. I found that after wearing the same thing over and over I developed a fondness for the items. Nevertheless, they were packed to go to TAFCOM.

I had some extra gifts for Neema that I surprised her with at breakfast.  This time we both cried. We have become so close in just two months. I will miss her terribly but have so many memories that bring a smile to my face.

The plan for my last day included home visits to see Mwamini one last time and to take Jasmine to the hospital for her knee procedure. I framed a picture of Rose (the daughter that died) for Mwamini and had a blanket for Jasmine. Neema walked to TAFCOM with me because I had so much stuff to give away. Besides clothes, I had water bottles and TP tubes plus gifts. Nie agreed to keep a bag of my personal items to save for 2016. I did the same in 2012 for this trip and it worked out great. I was also bringing home whatever did not sell at the fundraiser that would fit in my luggage.

When we got to the office I learned that Mwamini was at the hospital because of measles and there was a funeral near Jasmine and it was not possible for us to get to her house. She will get to the hospital on her own. I was disappointed because these two women, in particular, are very special to me. Nie will make sure all the things I brought will get disbursed. I decided the best way to spend my morning was to be as productive as any other day so I did not think about this being my last day.

I knew that I could not finish everything but two new volunteers, Joyce & Emma, have admin backgrounds and love organizing. After spending one morning with these women I told them they are making my leaving easier because they are picking up where I left off without skipping a beat. We accomplished so much this morning and they have a To Do list that will not leave them bored.

I also got to spend some time with Line, the teacher from Denmark. She will be teaching in the classroom. Her first attempt this morning left her a bit stressed. She found the children’s level of learning to be very different from what she expected. All is well though, as Joyce and Emma are going to help her so they can do group work in the classroom. One teacher with forty-five 3-4 year olds would overwhelm even the best of teachers.

There were treats left over from the fundraiser so we shared them with staff. I had some presents for the tailoring teachers and Bisura. Needless to say, goodbyes were very difficult. I did not go into the classrooms because that was just too hard. I jokingly told the staff that rainy season has returned.

On my walk home some of the students were on the road and ran to hold my hands and walk with me-another special memory I will treasure.

Neema and I took quick showers and headed to Moshi for lunch. We stopped at the bakery and stationery store so I could say goodbye before heading to Uhuru Park for lunch. Neema was in heaven because she could get meat. I decided that my last meal had to be Chips Mayai with pilipili (French fries in eggs with chili pepper sauce).

Our timing was perfect. We got home a bit after 4pm; I finished packing and was ready with time to spare before I was picked up at 5.

I said my final goodbyes to Neema and Mary and left for the airport with Nie and Jonas.

A huge chunk of my heart has been left behind. There are not enough words to describe how amazing this experience was. Each time I return is even better than the last. I renewed old friendships and made new friends and memories.  Nie and Jonas are remarkable people and the magnitude of their selflessness is beyond compare. They are my heroes and inspiration and I look forward to returning in 2016.

Special Moments in Pictures

Pre-Game Entertainment

The Spoon Fighters

The new Tailoring Room

Mwamini with her New Sweater

Mary & her Surprise Dinner-Plantains and Avocado Salad with Mango

Jonas & Joan

Jovin & John

Girls Night (From L to R) Mary, Bisura, Neema & Jenn

Rice Fields - from walk with Jenn

Rice Fields - from walk with Jenn

Rice Fields - from walk with Jenn

Fundraiser with Jonas, Me, & Nie

Fundraiser with Staff & Volunteers

Neema, Me and Mary - Farewell Picture

Of course we have time for a fundraiser!

JULY 4, Friday

Most mornings I wake up early and work on the computer. This morning as I was typing I noticed a quick movement on the floor under my feet. A mouse had scurried by and was now in the corner near my clothes. As always, Neema came to the rescue except she wanted to kill the mouse. I only wanted to get the little fellow outside. Fortunately his life was spared as he was too fast for us; somehow he darted out of the room and has not been seen since.

Hanna from Tanzania Volunteers came to the TAFCOM office today. It was a very productive meeting and TAFCOM will be added to their list of volunteer organizations. Hanna is hoping to place a volunteer with us in August.

Jonas decided that since we now have 4 volunteers we should plan a fundraiser. Just the word “fundraiser” can make my eyes bulge! I immediately had a flashback to my days at Big Brothers Big Sisters. I must first qualify this by saying that working for BBBS was one of the best jobs ever and, in my humble opinion, is one of the best youth serving organizations. However, the fundraising piece of it was non-stop, tiring work that consumed me for months at a time.

I came to my senses and adjusted my attitude! This is Africa (TIA) where stressing out is just not an option. I had been involved in 2 of TAFCOM’s fundraisers in the past. The templates we needed were on the computer and I had almost completed a document in 2012 on planning a fundraiser. I was feeling pretty comfortable with the workload knowing that it would be shared. Trying to decide a date became a challenge when we learned that the 3 other volunteers had safaris planned and two of them would be gone from July 10-14. It was decided to secure the venue for the 15^th. Shifting gears, we all talked briefly about what needed to be done and the other volunteers agreed to distribute flyers before they left for safari.

Neema and I spent the afternoon in Soweto at Memorial Second Hand Market. Mary met up with us after she finished at TAFCOM. I was looking for shoes for John (the boy with the prosthetic leg.) I brought along one of his shoes to try and match his size.The section for shoes was humongous. I searched table after table for a good fit and finally found a pair that was in great condition.

Spoon fighting was planned for the evening so we headed to AfriShare after the market. The oven was fixed so it was unanimously decided to attempt another pizza meal. The meal was a great success. Spoon fighting was outrageously loud and fun.

JULY 5, Saturday

I am having new issues with my knee. It is swollen and feels warm, making me think I have fluid on the knee. I decided to stay home, work on TAFCOM projects, and have an otherwise lazy day. I visited my favorite Duka la Dawa (medical store) and got some ibuprofen in the hopes that an anti-inflammatory and my wrap might reduce the swelling.

JULY 6, Sunday

Neema and I went to church this morning. After lunch Mary, Neema and I headed to Moshi. Magembe was playing basketball. Earlier in the week Jenn and I had agreed to watch his game. We arrived at the site where he usually plays and no one was there. I was unable to reach Magembe by phone. I felt bad that I had not confirmed the location of the game. The day was not a waste, however. We walked into Moshi, met Mary’s brother who has a shoe store, and found an ice cream vendor. I don’t know if it was because I have not tasted ice cream since I got here but my 50/50 (chocolate & vanilla) bar was really flavorful.

Magembe called later and we both felt bad about missing his game. Turns out it was a championship game and his team won. It was played on an indoor court near KCMC (hospital) nowhere near the field we went to.

JULY 7, Monday

Saba translates as 7 in Kiswahili. Today is Saba Saba Day (or 7/7), a national holiday also know as "Worker's Dat". An anual International Trade fair is held on this date near Dar-es-Salaam. Currently the fair hosts 1800 exhibitors from 18 African countries presenting their products to international businesses.

I walked into TAFCOM and the Tailoring Center had moved to the bigger room. The broken window had been fixed and new curtains were up. It is so much sunnier and roomer. Everyone was pleased.

The TAFCOM fundraiser has been scheduled for July 15^th. I am mixing fundraising work with other projects I want to complete before I leave. The week was planned out and Jonas and I will visit a variety of volunteer houses and organizations to advertise the fundraiser. 

Mary brought corn from her family farm and we ate boiled corn and tomatoes for dinner. It was delicious. The kernels were much larger than I have seen in the US but the taste was similar.

JULY 8, Tuesday

I did not feel well after dinner last night and eventually got sick in the middle of the night. I am not sure the cause but I was pretty queasy most of the day. This is not the time to get sick. Fortunately I brought herbal digestion tea and have been using it and handing it out to others as needed. I distributed fundraiser flyers, bought supplies and made copies in Moshi before meeting up with Jenn and some other volunteers at Memorial Second Hand Market. I wanted baby clothes for Mussa (Lee Ann's Kili guide)and Shaila's baby which is due in October. Finding baby clothes was easy with so many to choose from. I even found a baby blanket at a different vendor that matched one of the outfits.

Jonas and I were going to a couple volunteer houses during the dinner hour. He was to pick me up in Soweto so I waited at Jenn’s and had time for a nice visit with Ibrah.

At dinner, Mary and Neema were in rare form. I was curious as to what kind of students they were in school and was not at all surprised to learn that both of them would have been considered “class clowns”. Mary described herself as quiet and studious until the teacher left the room then she would go to the front of the class and imitate the teacher. She had us in stitches doing some of her imitations.

JULY 9, Wednesday

Nie and I went to see Mwamini this morning. She is the mother of Rose, the 1 year old who died of AIDS during my 2012 trip. I have a special fondness for her and was looking forward to our visit. I had seen her when she came to the Micro Loan business training in June. She is still very thin but looking much healthier than two years ago. She is using her micro loan to expand her business. She not only sells laundry soap and cooking oil now but has added a side business of cooking and selling fish at the market. She was ecstatic to receive water bottles for her cooking oil.

It is extremely rewarding to witness positive change of any kind. Getting to know the families over the years I have been here is such a bonus for me. This visit has afforded me several opportunities to realize and appreciate the strides made by many of the families served by TAFCOM.

Mwamini appears determined and goal-oriented. During our visit she shared that she is actually saving money to buy land and build a house. She has friends in the Boma area (about 45 minutes from Moshi) where land is cheaper. She is up-to-date on the two younger children’s school fees so they consistently attend school and are doing well. Her oldest son is in Arusha attending a secondary school that also provides vocational training in mechanics.

Most of the clothes I brought with me will be left here for those who sell second hand clothing. However, Mwamini, although taller them me is thinner so I brought her one of my sweaters plus a skirt and top that should fit her. She immediately put on the sweater, expressing a special thanks and sharing that she did not currently own one.

Nie and I had a busy day scheduled. After leaving Mwamini we headed to a couple volunteer sites to talk about our upcoming fundraiser. One of the places, Msamaria, is a center which provides housing for street children. This is where Jenn volunteers. We met up with Jonas in Moshi and all went to lunch at Milan’s. This one of my favorite Indian restaurants and the food was as good as I remembered.

When Lynn was here we planned to visit Shah Industries but it did not work out. Since Lynn was unable to go to Shah I had agreed to purchase items for her which she will sell or auction at her fundraiser in October. Shah Industries is a unique business. It provides employment for both albinos and those with physical handicaps who otherwise would not be able to find work. They are all trained in the arts and crafts that are so popular to visitors. After our lunch we stopped in. The building is not easy to find and one enters through a guarded gate. The ambience of the store was warm and welcoming; the variety and volume of items almost overwhelming. I knew that we all had lots to do so I did a quick overview, paid attention to the directions and planned to return before my trip ended. I commented to Nie and Jonas that I wanted to know more about who started this business. It impressed me that the concept of a sheltered workshop similar to what we have in the US existed here as it is a very forward thinking concept. Sadly, Albinos have a history of being treated very poorly and the needs of those with physical handicaps are just recently being addressed.

I was dropped in town to finish some errands and drop off more flyers. There are several curio shops in town that cater to tourists. Chui Traders is one of the higher quality and more reasonably priced shops. I stopped in to see if they would post a flyer. As the owner and I were chatting he mentioned selling items from Shah Industries. I shared that I had been there earlier that day and was so moved by the concept of the business and the quality of the items. When he disclosed that he was the owner and founder of Shah Industries I was totally awestruck. I spent the next half hour talking and listening to Hamati Shah’s story. He shared pictures of the first worker he employed showing the house the man lived in and then the house he built for him with the help of Lions International. There were pictures of Hamati with the former president of Tanzania and awards he had received for Shah Industries. (http://www.kiliweb.com/shah). Currently, Hamati’s son and wife manage Shah while he runs the curio shop and is involved in other charity work.

I also learned that he had lived in the US for some years and spent time in the Cleveland area. I asked if he missed anything about the US and he said that Tanzania is his home and the best place to live. He got no argument from me. Before I left he posted a flyer and donated 10 shirts for us to sell at the fundraiser or to give to clients.

I was so pumped when I left. I easily found everything else I needed and finished my errands at a local grocery store buying some apples to celebrate my day. As I was approaching Pasua on the daladala I passed a large field. Coca Cola had set up a big screen TV and chairs for the community to watch the World Cup. It is encouraging to see this kind of give back and I know the area folks love it by the loud cheering I hear whenever there is a game. I dropped by Nie and Jonas’ to share the apples and stories of my afternoon before heading home.

Sights & Skin

 Scenes from My Walk with Neema

View of Base of Kili

Cattle Along the Path

 

Housing

Kili

Nie & Jonas at the TAFCOM Office

Lunch Date with (front L to R) Mary, Me Neema & (back) Marcel, Sigrid & Jenn

Our Lunch - Chips Masala with Guacamole, Maize Bread, Flower Tomato & Cucumber

Jasmine's House  (on Left)

Sammy Sosa - Before and After Skin Bleaching

The grass is NOT greener on the other side.

JUNE 30, Monday                                                                                                          

Another volunteer arrived today. Line (pronounced Leena) is a teacher from Denmark. I immediately felt a connection with her. In some ways she reminded me of myself when I first came to Tanzania.

One of my flip flops has come unglued. I love these shoes as they swaddled my feet for 7 months in 2012 while I journeyed around Africa. Neema also had some sandals in need of repair so was going to find someone to fix them. When I returned home my flip flops were good as new and cost me a mere 42 cents to put back together.

Neema and I walked for about an hour today. These are among my favorite times. It is a beautiful countryside and gives me such a sense of serenity.

JULY 1, Tuesday

Jenn had expressed a wish to visit TAFCOM so today I met her at the daladala stand. We had received quite a bit of unexpected rain so the walk to TAFCOM was an extra bonus to her experience of Pasua. Evidently the rain was worse in Moshi so the other volunteers did not come. It was a pleasant and productive morning. Jenn was eager to help. We finished organizing the folders and notebooks for both the Volunteer Information and the Micro Loans. I also taught a short English lesson on politeness and the use of “I’m Sorry” and “Excuse Me.”

Jenn was planning to stay for lunch. I had also invited Sigrid and Marcel who leave at the end of the week. They have been living in private housing and eating most of their meals in town. They were anxious to have some home-cooked food. Everyone arrived around 1:00. Neema outdid herself. She made traditional Chips Masala and added guacamole to it. The plate was decorated with a tomato cut like a flower. Mango/Passion juice accompanied our meal. Sigrid and Marcel will be traveling in Africa for a while before returning to their Social Work studies in Germany. We talked about their plans and the places they will visit.

Neema and I visited Nie’s mom who lives on the next road over from our house. She grows mchaichai which is the lemon grass used for tea that I have become totally addicted to. I also discovered that it is really agreeable when mixed with coffee. Nie’s aunt is still there recovering from her surgery plus a number of other family members were visiting. We chatted for a while, although I mostly listened to their Kiswahili. Nie’s aunt is doing well and should return home soon. Mama Nie gave us a good-size cutting of mchaichai and we headed home for dinner.

JULY 2, Wednesday
The tailoring women are working diligently on making various items for me. I pop in periodically to see how they are doing. I am probably more of a nuisance because I keep coming up with different design ideas. Maulida is also going to produce some more batik for me to bring home which I am very excited about.

Nie is planning home visits for tomorrow so we talked about the families we will see and some of their needs. We also discussed our meeting Friday with Hanna from Tanzania Volunteers.

I was walking home and almost at the turn to my road home when I witnessed a motorcycle accident. I first heard the motorcycle and could tell he was driving too fast. As I watched him approach he hit a ditch, lost control and slammed into some bushes. Along with some others who were walking by, we ran over to the man. Fortunately he was not transporting anyone. He got off his bike quickly and seemed more dazed than hurt. He was wearing a helmet which most likely prevented serious injury. I worry so about the children getting hurt because of some of these crazy drivers.

JULY 3, Thursday                                                                                                   
The reality that next week is my last full week is starting to sink in. I try not to think about it. As I was getting ready this morning I heard these little voices. Several of the TAFCOM kids that live around here had shown up to walk to school with me. I was going a different direction to meet Nie for our home visits so could not go with them. My heart totally melted.

We visited Rehema and I gave her a framed picture of her kids that I took on our last visit. I also gave her more water bottles for her cooking oil. We gave out more toilet paper tubes asking families to let us know how much they like them. I now also have volunteers saving both water bottles and tubes. I think this could be a small business venture for someone!

While visiting Jasmine, she affirmed that the toilet paper tubes worked well for her. Her leg is healing but swollen again. I offered to cover the expense as this is something she has needed for a long time. It requires a two night stay in the hospital and will cost approximately $50 for the procedure, meds and hospital stay.

Jasmine has always had a reddish hue about her face. As Nie was talking to Jasmine she asked her about a mark on the side of her face. It looked like a burn. Jasmine admitted that in the past she had used skin bleaching products. I was quick to tell her that she was beautiful and begged her not to do this.

Skin bleaching is an issue among Africans that dates back to colonization in the late 19^th century. I met students in the Amsterdam airport who were coming to Tanzania to study this issue. It had piqued my interest so I researched the topic and found some fascinating articles. (http://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-20444798 http://globalfusionproductions.com/global-style/skin-bleaching-colorism-a-global-dirty-little-secret/

http://jezebel.com/p-g-backs-black-is-beautiful-doc-sells-skin-lighteni-476509650)

The reasons for skin bleaching vary but skin lighteners are mostly used because Africans want “white skin”. Researchers have linked this phenomenon to colonialism when white skin defined beauty. Psychologists add that low self-esteem and even self-hate are also common factors. One article stated, “Entrenched in the minds of many Africans from a young age is the adage ‘if it's white, it's all right’, a belief that has chipped away at the self-esteem of millions.

I was both intrigued and disgusted by the history of colonialism’s influence on these beliefs. Digging deeper into this topic I found the following: “Years of African colonization along with the physical & mental enslavement of Africans throughout the Diaspora brought about the idea that lighter was better in the minds of African descendants because it brought one favor in the fact that it meant one was mixed with the genetics of the master, the superior race- the White race. This beauty ideal of colonizers & slave masters became cemented throughout the continent & carried on thru African descendants around the world as a badge of honor for some & a dirty little secret for others centuries after emancipation & continues to plague people of color even today.”

The issue of skin lightening became prominent in the news with Michael Jackson and more recently with baseball player, Sammy Sosa. In Africa there are several famous musicians who readily admit to lightening their skin. Their rationale is that it makes them feel more beautiful and confident. One musician was very blunt in expressing the sentiment that black people are seen as dangerous and he is treated better now because he looks like he is white.

The use of some of these creams have been linked to leukemia as well as cancers of the liver and kidney. Skin conditions, some serious and most irreversible, can also result from use of these creams. Some creams contain harmful steroids and others mercury.

Several documentaries have been made in recent years about the prejudice of colorism. Two that were mentioned in my research include Dark Girls (2011) and Imagine a Future (2013). Interestingly, Imagine a Future received backing from Proctor & Gamble, one of the major companies that sells skin-lightening creams all over the world!

There is a scene in the documentary that takes place in a market in South Africa. Lebogang Mashile, a South African poet, actress and activist is asked about the problem of skin bleaching. Ms Mashile replies: It’s been a problem for a long time. It’s self-hate, it’s not having enough mirrors that affirm you.”

I am not going to expound on my feelings and emotions around this topic because they would burn a hole through these pages. Suffice it to say that I am very glad that I started buying and making home-made personal care products.

Some might compare skin lightening to the Western world’s obsession with tanning. I would not agree that it is the same. I see tanning as a vanity issue whereas the skin lightening of people of color goes much deeper, as the research reveals.

I included the quote about not having enough mirrors that affirm for several reasons. First and foremost it was a poignant statement that needed to be heard. On a personal note, I do not have a mirror in my room. I have found this to be fascinating because the lack of a mirror makes it impossible to really care about my looks. Some mornings I forget to comb my hair or I might run my fingers through my hair as I walk out the door. Sometimes my sunscreen is splotched on my face or neck. It is just not important. Occasionally I get a glimpse of myself in a window or even on my computer screen if the light is right. I actually have enjoyed exploring and releasing this part of my ego. I think it would be a good exercise for all of us. This is yet another way this country has taught me about what is important in life.

Changing Lives

Zakia & Amina at Finishing & Design Class
(mentioned in last blog posting)

John with New Leg & Shoes (2012)

Janet sells Juice to save money for Decorating Business
Received Micro Loan

Hadija & Son - A Micro Loan will help expand her vegetable business

Some of My Mini Paparazzi

Zainabu received Micro Loan and is looking for housing

Daladala

Shaila, Me & Mussa

When life gives you lemons...

JUNE 27, Friday

Each morning I spend time either writing or working on the computer. This morning as I sat down, the power went out within 5 minutes. Our voucher has expired. The compound I live in is steadily filling with tenants. One of the newer families shares electric with us and it was their turn to buy the voucher. I was hopeful that the electric would be on when I returned from TAFCOM. My computer is old and the battery is rather worthless with a very short life.

When I walked into TAFCOM today a young teen-aged boy was sitting in the office. Nie and Jonas asked if I recognized him. I could not even guess. It was John, a 14 year old I met in 2012. When he was 9 he broke his leg. His father did not seek medical treatment and the leg became infected. John had his leg amputated at the knee. An American couple has been providing the funds for a new leg each year as he is still growing. Along with Nie and Jonas I accompanied him in 2012 to get his new leg and then bought him shoes from the second hand market.

John lives about an hour away so there is no way I would ever have expected him to be in Pasua. He is spending his school break with Nie and Jonas. John got his new leg at KCMC this year and it is much better quality than in the past. He needs shoes again so I will go to Memorial market on Friday.

John enjoys school and is learning English. Since I had finished organizing the teacher resource shelf earlier in the week, John and I were able to find some books in English for him to read during his time here. The books are very young for a teenager but he started school late and the fact he is willing to read them is very encouraging.

There was a generous donation made for Micro-Loans. Nie visits families almost weekly and she identified 6 families that would most benefit. Today we were visiting 4 of those families that lived near the center. The first two women share a stand and I pass them every day going to and from TAFCOM. Janet sells fruit juice but her goal is to expand her decorating business. She put up the tent and decorated for Lynn’s event. Because she has limited funds Janet must rent the materials and is selling the juice to save money to purchase her own materials. A Micro Loan will definitely help kick start her event business.

Hadija is the mother of 4. Her husband left her for another woman and does not provide support. Janet and Hadija’s stand is in an open area where a crowd of kids play. They are one of the groups I refer to as my “mini paparazzi”. I learned that her two youngest boys are among these children so they were delighted to see me and loved it that I took their pictures.

After tearing away from the kids, we moved down the road to meet with Zainabu. She had come to the office a couple weeks ago requesting assistance. She is a single mother of 4 who operates a fruit and vegetable stand. She was living with her sister but a money conflict resulted in Zainabu having to leave. She is with friends until housing is found. One of the challenges with moving is that landlords expect 3 months rent up front which is a hardship for many.

As Nie was explaining how TAFCOM would help with a Micro Loan, I could see the gratitude fill her eyes and face. She was so visibly expressive I felt like I could see into her soul. I am so fortunate to experience these types of encounters that touch me so deeply.

Deborah’s story is heartbreaking. A very pretty young woman of 25, Deborah discovered she was HIV+ when pregnant with her first child. The father left when he became aware of her pregnancy and HIV status. Sadly, the baby contracted HIV while in utero and died at birth in February of this year.

The other two people who would receive the Micro Loans included Hendry who we visited before. He has the 18 month old daughter who comes to the center while he works. The other woman was attending a funeral and will come to the office next week when she returns. All recipients were asked to come in on Monday to receive their loans, fill out a contract and review some business tips. They will also receive a business manual and accounting ledger.

I ended the day by visiting the teachers to see what they had planned for the next week. I was able to provide them with a number of tools from the resource shelf and cabinet. It brought back many fond memories of my times working in the library at my kids’ elementary school as I reflected on an efficient strategy for cataloging and designing a check out system that will be easy and efficient.

Lynn and her group come off the mountain today and we all met up at Indo-Italiano again for a farewell dinner. They fly back to the states Saturday evening. Lynn requested copies of the Upper Level Children’s profiles and some class pictures. My plan had been to take care of this in the morning so when I returned home this afternoon and there still was no electric I was a bit concerned. Neema said the woman who was getting the voucher would not be home until 6pm. I was being picked up at 6:30 to go to dinner. I was a bit frustrated but could make arrangements to see Lynn on Saturday if necessary.

Neema sensed my frustration and I explained the phrase, “When life gives you lemons, you make lemonade.”  The tailoring women are ready to sew the items I am bringing home so Neema, Mary and I spent part of the afternoon planning the best use for each piece of material. I had purchased 10 pieces of material. I was so glad to have their help because it was a daunting task which I kept putting off because of my indecision.

With no electricity and time on my hands I decided it was also time to pamper and clean my feet. I mostly wear flip flops and the combination of mud, dust and dryness transforms ones feet into foreign looking objects. Using lotion or sunscreen adds another dimension since it acts almost like an adhesive or dust magnet.

My feet had not been truly dirt free since the swim at Chemka Hot Springs. I put some water in my shower bucket, added soap and got out my loofah. After much soaking and scrubbing, and probably the loss of a few layers of skin, I once again remembered what feet are supposed to look like. I lathered my feet in lotion and oils, and put on socks. My feet felt great. Perhaps I missed my calling as a pedicurist! I also couldn’t help but think how this gave me an entirely new perspective on the biblical stories of washing other’s feet and a special empathy for Mary Magdalene.

Jonas came through with a short term voucher for electricity. Power returned at 6:15 and I hastily loaded my flash drive for Lynn. Nie had a toothache and so Jonas and I headed to the restaurant. We had reserved a large table and the restaurant was quite crowded. It took 2 hours for us to get our food! The food was excellent as always although by the time we were served anything would have been delicious.

JUNE 28, Saturday

As much as I dislike shopping, I enjoy wandering the streets of Moshi. One item on my To Do list was to find a specific thread that is used for braiding bracelets. I visited multiple stores with no success. Finally a woman told me she knew where I could find the thread and walked with me at least 3 blocks to the store’s location. Later when I shared this story with Jenn she reiterated the same experience looking for whistles. It is astounding and refreshing how people will go out of their way to help others.

I decided to go to Soweto to see who was around. I had a rain jacket for Mussa that I thought would be useful for a guide or porter when climbing Kili. He was very appreciative and I found $10 in one of the pockets. I spent some time with Mussa and his wife looking at their wedding pictures. He also gave me an extra as a keepsake. Jenn was gone so I went to see if Debra was home. She was not feeling well so Ibrah had taken her to the clinic. Dennis and Moody were watching the baby. I hung out with them and we planned another attempt at spoon fighting for this upcoming Friday night. They were open to the idea of my bringing Neema and Mary.

Riding home on the daladala I noticed a sticker on the front windshield which said, “This car is protected by the mood of God.” I am sure something was lost in the translation but I could not help but chuckle and hope that God was in a good mood!

Game Night concluded a very pleasant day. As always we played Phase 10 but also had so,e laughs over our own version of tongue twisters. I have a difficult time pronouncing a number of Kiswahili words. Many have multiple syllables with up to 4 and 5 syllables of two letters (consonant, vowel, consonant vowel, etc). I frequently flip syllables. Neema and Mary help me practice pronunciation and I have been thinking of tricky English words like aluminum and anonymous for them to learn. It is a silly game but then we are easily amused.

The electric went out again this evening but only in our rooms. The hall light was fine. This was of no use to anyone. The landlord was called and fixed it rather quickly. These last few days have been a real test of my patience.

JUNE 29, Sunday

The short term voucher that Jonas purchased for electricity ran out this morning. Fortunately the neighbors were not gone long and we only lost a few hours. No electricity was the motivation I needed to take a nice, long run. I spent the majority of the day catching up on my To Do list.  

I joined Nie, Jonas, and their son, Jovin for dinner at Deli Chez. This is a favorite restaurant in town. They have an upstairs that is open to the outdoors on one side. The view of life in Moshi town is great and Kili was even out for a while. The menu is huge and covers ethnic dishes form many countries. I am a creature of habit when I eat here because they have an Indian dish I love called Saag Paneer. It is a combination of cooked spinach with cottage cheese cubes and Indian spices. I was not disappointed. 

The Youth & the 3 R’s - Resourceful, Respectful, Ready to Learn

JUNE 23, Monday

Walking to TAFCOM this morning I encountered my usual “mini paparazzi” of children. It fascinates me how resourceful they can be. I see no “toys” as we know them. Instead I observe children playing Pickle and Soccer using a ball made from rolled up plastic bags held together with string and rubber bands. One of the kids on my road was excited to show me his paper airplane. Sometimes planes are made from the corn stalks and sticks the children find. Plastic water bottles are made into cars with the tops used for wheels. The most common toy is a bucket lid and stick which the kids are extremely adept at rolling down the roads.

Jonas had been notified over the weekend that two new volunteers would be coming today. Apparently their placement had not worked out. Our 2 German volunteers will be leaving in 2 weeks so this is good timing for a transition. Caitlin is from New Zealand and Maya is from Israel. Nie requested that I handle orientation of new volunteers so that was how I spent my morning. It was also Nele’s last day with us. She is also from Germany and had been traveling the last 2 weeks. She relayed a story of how she was detained in Kenya because of the political unrest and had to stay at the police station in Nairobi until there was a full bus available to travel to Tanzania that could accommodate several police for the passengers’ protection. Fortunately she arrived back in Tanzania with one day to spare before her flight home to Germany.

I have thoroughly enjoyed running here. I usually finish my day at TAFCOM by 1:00 then take about a 45 minute run before heading home to lunch. Today when I got home Neema surprised me with an apple. I typically eat an apple every day in the US but they are very expensive here ranging from 50 to 60 cents for one. This was my first apple and I was almost as excited as when I get dark chocolate. I decided to save it for breakfast.

JUNE 24, Tuesday

Apple with Peanut Butter for breakfast! I shared with Neema as she had never tried PB on an apple before. Whenever I introduce her to some new culinary delight she calls it “Designer Food”.

I sat in on several of the Upper Level classes this morning. I took notes and have some good ideas for Thursday. Much of the teaching is lecture style and Jonas is encouraging the teachers to be more interactive with the children plus add group activities. I am amazed at their attention span and respectful behavior. I can’t imagine trying to control a class of 40+ children. The government's goal for teacher/student ratio is 1 teacher for every 45 students.

The three broken sewing machines require some new parts. Three new machines will be purchased on Thursday. I have been talking to Nie and Jonas about the feasibility of moving the tailoring women into the original classroom as it is larger. The concern relates to security since the room only has an opening for a door and is surrounded by windows facing the front of the building. Apparently 2 sewing machines have been stolen from the current training room which is more secluded. Curtains would make a difference so Nie an Jonas will give this plan consideration.

Soweto is an area of Moshi where I lived in 2012. The largest market for second hand clothing is located there. Unless one has their clothes made by a tailor there are very few clothing shops in Moshi. It is always fun to go there and there is nothing you cannot find. Neema had asked to go so we planned an afternoon lunch of Zanzibar pizza at Taj Mahal, followed by a walk to Soweto where we met up with Jenn (volunteer) and Debra (Ibrah of Afrishare’s wife). We spent more than two hours walking the rutted dirt paths in and out of home-made wood platforms covered in canvas bags and loaded with all kinds of clothing for every age.

I was aware that many girls miss school on a monthly basis because of lack of funds for sanitary pads. I had researched the issue and found several patterns for home-made re-usable items. Potential material was on my buy list.

UNESCO estimates that one in 10 African adolescent girls miss school during menses and eventually drop out because of menstruation-related issues, such as the inaccessibility of affordable sanitary protection, the social taboos related to menstruation, and the culture of silence that surrounds it. (AllAfrica, 2011) The lack of toilets as well as the disposal of products are additional issues that remain unaddressed and increase environmental concerns.

The topic of menstruation is seldom discussed in the home and definitely not an area of focus within the educational system. Sanitary pads are unaffordable for those living in poverty. Not only are there homes without water and sanitary toilet facilities, but many schools also lack basic sanitation facilities and disposal systems. The research indicates that poor sanitation is a leading reason for girls missing school. (Forum of African Women Educationists, FAWE 2006) These conditions also affect female teachers who may also miss school in a country that already has a teacher shortage. Adult women miss work causing loss of income. The cycle of poverty continues….

The repercussions of all these conditions are far-reaching. I remember a culture of silence around menstruation when I was a young girl. It still can cause embarrassing situations for girls and women. Anxiety and discomfort coupled with the lack of money, poor sanitation, and hygiene issues all contribute to female students’ low concentration in school, absences, and drop-out rates. From my reading and observing, a girl’s education is the most important investment for women. It leads to greater income potential and healthier lifestyles, 

On a side note, it saddens me that we do not place more emphasis on celebrating the onset of menses as a time of empowerment. As women, the ability to replicate life is one of the marvels of our existence.

As we wandered through the second hand market I shared my desire to find absorbent material for the tailoring women to sew some cloth sanitary pads. We found some great, cheap blankets. I bought a small child’s blanket for a tester. The plan is to use one of the on-line patterns to design the pads and then have them tested by some of the girls before buying more material. I also want to do a fact sheet or booklet and TAFCOM will then organize a distribution strategy. I am really excited about this but sad that I probably won’t be here for the final steps.

We all walked away from the market pleased with our purchases. We also ran into Sigrid and Marcel. Neema and I did not arrive home until 7pm. I have always been told it is not safe for muzungus to be out after dark. I feel very secure in Pasua because so many see me regularly. I worry far more about falling or tripping. Unless they have an uncanny sense of balance, I have no idea how people walk these roads after dark. It also happened that the electric was out so none of the shop lights were on, adding to the uncertainty of my steps. I just hung on to Neema and she guided me home. I have a head lamp and we have a solar light so we could see for dinner. I spent the rest of the evening reading with my head lamp and went to bed at 9:30pm. The electricity came back shortly after I settled in.

JUNE 25, Wednesday

Instead of going to TAFCOM, I was scheduled to meet with Tanzania Volunteers. One of the owners, Louis, has a sister in Columbus (mentioned in a previous blog. I brought items for their father.). Unfortunately, Louis was not available so I have yet to meet him. However, I spent a very enjoyable morning with his wife, Hanna, who is from Finland. Tanzania Volunteers operates a volunteer house and placement service for volunteers. It is a very nice facility and appeared to be well-organized and efficiently run. It is located in one of the best sections of Moshi. It is humorous to me that this upscale neighborhood is called Shantytown. Our visit resulted in a potential partnership for TAFCOM. Hanna will come to the center a week from Friday to meet Nie and Jonas.

Hanna explained that Tanzania Volunteers works with about 50 organizations for volunteer placements. Several were of particular interest to me. One involves a nursery that grows trees. One of their programs involves selling trees to schools at a reduced rate and includes environmental education for the children. I am going to explore this further and hopefully get some trees for the Minnesota Academy.

Another placement is within the Juvenile Court system. I was unaware of how the system worked so Hanna spent time explaining it to me. A child can be put in juvenile detention if accused of breaking the law or a parent can bring a child if they feel their behavior is unruly. The concept of “innocent until proven guilty” does not exist. The children normally wait three months before going before a judge and some have lingered for several years. Volunteers teach the children and Moshi’s detention center is considered one of the best in the country. In many facilities volunteers are not allowed. Hanna described the youth as eager to learn and relayed a story from one of the volunteers who had asked the kids if they wanted to play sports and they replied that they would prefer to learn English. The grounds of the facility are open and it would be easy to escape but this is rare. For many of these youth, food and shelter are a welcome change.

I decided to walk back to Moshi. I used to run in Shantytown as it is near Soweto where I stayed in 2012. The walk took about an hour; it was a beautiful day and I enjoyed rediscovering some of the sites I had forgotten. Also, I find myself not feeling hurried to get so much done. The pace of life is slower here and, most of the time, I have been able to adopt the same relaxed mindset; today being one of those days.

JUNE 26, Thursday

While working at DCA (my day care job) in Delaware, OH I learned the phrase “Kiss Your Brain”. It includes the motions of kissing your fingers and then touching your head. It is one of my favorite phrases and I taught it to the Upper Level class today. The English lesson for this week is about likes and dislikes. When I observed this class on Tuesday, I noted that the teacher was not using examples that would elicit a strong reaction to differentiate the two definitions. Using “snakes” and “spiders” produced the responses I wanted. The children were then geared up to supply their own examples. I also taught a rhyme for keeping their hands in their laps. I have no idea where this came from but the teachers tell the kids to “sit like a manager” when they want them to be still.

I began the reorganizing of the teacher resource book case. Sometimes you have to make a mess as the first step and that is exactly what I did. Piles of books were stacked on the table, chairs and floor. I had to leave my chaotic arrangement so we could go to Moshi to purchase the sewing machines. The store had two assembled and one machine in a box. During our wait, Nie and I walked over to the tailor who is teaching the Finish and Design class. The girls impressed us with their work and the instructor also praised them commenting that all 3 were exceptional students.

I was not aware that a seat belt law existed in Tanzania and was even more surprised that it was enforced. Iddi, our taxi driver was called to drive Nie and me home since it was taking a very long time to assemble the sewing machine. As we were driving through town a policewoman, on foot, waved the car to the side. The exchange between Iddi and the policewoman was loud at times and I repeatedly heard Iddi saying the Kiswahili word for “Listen”. Even Nie raised her voice on several occasions. I kept quiet as a mouse, clueless as to what was going on. At one point, the policewoman got in the car and Iddi started driving around the block. She finally exited the car but not without taking Iddi’s driver’s license and car registration. It was only then that I learned that Iddi was being ticketed for not wearing his seat belt. I was flabbergasted as no one wears a seat belt. The police woman wanted Iddi to go directly to the police station and pay the $30 fine. This procedure, I was told, could take hours. The argument was all about taking us home first which she finally agreed to.

I felt so bad for Iddi. He is Nie and Jonas’ regular driver whenever they need a taxi. I have known him for several years. During the ride home Iddi did not act too upset. He and Nie continued their conversation which always includes laughter. We stopped for gas. This experience was a wonderful step back in time because someone else pumps the gas and they wash your windows. Since it is Thursday this will pass as my TBT story.