Week 14 - Sometimes my glass is half empty.

May 21-May 27

Lee Ann & Chris

HOWEVER – My glass was overflowing with joy on Friday the 25^th. It was one of the best days ever as my daughter, Lee Ann, became engaged on her 25^th birthday to Chris, an amazing and wonderful young man. He had called me the previous week to ask my blessing (which was a no-brainer). What truly impressed me was that he also called her brother. I am so thrilled for the two of them. They have been together 4 years and Lee Ann has been waiting for this day (sometimes a bit impatiently). She knew it was to happen soon. So Chris, knowing that he had to think of a way to surprise her, decided to publicly get down on bended knee and propose at her birthday party with about 15 of her friends. She never expected him to propose in public so he completely caught her off guard. Her best friend made a special trip to be there and taped the event. It should be on Facebook soon. We Skyped at midnight with tears of joy and much excitement. So although parts of this week were tough; it could not have ended better.

This update is being sent out early as I will be gone Mon-Weds visiting the Hadzabe tribe. I will be going with a group of students from University of Virginia who are here as part of their school program. The Hadzabe are the last full-time hunter-gatherers in Africa. This should be a very different experience and I cannot wait to share it with you.

Children Practicing their Program

Cleaning up at TAFCOM Center

Since I am gone 3 days next week Nie and I wanted to make sure that we had organized as much as possible for the Malaria Group event which will be held the Sunday after I return. Much of this past week was spent in the office typing, printing and copying. I am really pleased with how things are unfolding and quite sure the US group will be very impressed with TAFCOM. Part of the program includes the kids singing songs and reciting poems. The teachers have been working with them every day and we have been out at least once a week for the last few weeks to practice with them and make changes as needed. Nie, Jonas and I went out on Friday and the kids could not be cuter. I am hoping to find a video camera because I really want this memory (and I can share with you all).

Also, because of funds you helped raise plus funds raised through Global Giving, the 2^nd building should have a roof in time for the Malaria Group event. 

When this event is over we move right into planning a Family Planning workshop. The Micro Loans and Family Planning are the two topics that I have gravitated towards because I think they can make the greatest difference. Obviously, the loans can give a family the ability to meet basic needs and move them towards self-sufficiency. I find Family Planning to be a challenging topic. One thing that I have learned in my time here is that when one’s day is centered on survival, family planning is the last thing on someone’s mind. 

To the Western mind, it would make sense to think in terms of future consequences. But I have found that planning of any kind is unlike how we operate in the US.  From what I have observed, multi-tasking is basically non-existent. Most things are done one step at a time. I often have to refer to the affirmation on my mirror, Mimi ni mvumilivu. (I am patient) as I am used to working on several projects at a time plus all the attendant distractions.  

I do feel that my patience is regularly tested with incidents similar to this example. I was at the copy shop and was trying to save time because Ibrah was waiting on a document he needed. So as the document is printing, I asked what it would cost and said I could pay and be ready to go. The man said “No” and told me I needed to wait until the job was complete. 

So even though this example is inconsequential it is indicative of the culture of “planning”.  Therefore, when considering Family Planning, it is important to understand that, although there is a general knowledge of the topic, it is so low on their list of priorities.

I will never forget meeting a young man (volunteer) when I was here 2 years ago and he told me of a conversation he had with a Tanzanian man. The Tanzanian took him thru an exercise where he asked the volunteer to list in order the most important needs of any person. Obviously, food and shelter topped the list. After that there were a variety of choices that come to mind. Some of which would most likely include clothing and education. Medical care becomes a concern after an illness occurs; preventative medicine is often overlooked.  Tanzanians remind me of members of AA; they take “One Day at a Time” and must be focused on staying sober; sometimes to the exclusion of other needs that lead to long term ramifications.

This week was also our monthly visit to Boma to take Victoria for her injection. Victoria also takes 2 daily medications and they will need to be refilled in 5 days. Regina, Victoria’s mom had shared at our last visit that her 7 year old son was not yet in school. Nie told her that he needed to be in school now because he would not be accepted into any school if he had not attended by the time he was seven. Regina was unaware of this policy and revealed to us on this visit that she had taken some of the food money we gave her to enroll her son in pre-school. Sadly, she also disclosed that two of the children  had been sent home from school 3 weeks ago because fees were unpaid. The good news was that Regina took the initiative and started a banana selling business on the main road of Boma. Nie and I had discussed at length the possibility of a micro-loan. Our conclusion was that the needs of this family are so dire that it would be an additional burden to provide funds as a loan. As I thought it through I even felt that it might even be insulting to ask for repayment, considering the seriousness of the family’s hardships.

Nie and I decided to give Regina 50,000 Tsh for her business (half the amount of the start-up loans) and hold an additional 50,000 for a future need. Well, the future was the following day. Jonas and Nie had talked and felt that it was crucial to get the children back in school. Nie will work her magic with the phone and send her the money today. It is so frustrating that some children miss so much school because of unpaid school fees. TAFCOM helps as much as they can but when children are behind they are at such a risk for failure and if they don’t pass the national test cannot move past primary school. This just rocks my world with its bizarreness. How can a country with so many problems refuse further education to students solely based on a test? I wish I could understand the rationale behind such an obstacle.

In the meantime, Teddy from the office went on a search for the 2 medications that Victoria will need in 5 days. She only found one and it will cost 25,000 Tsh for a 2 week supply. (Keep in mind that this amount could equal several days’ wages) Nie then informed me that these medications were prescribed during the first evaluation of Victoria’s condition and the monthly penicillin shots were prescribed by the second doctor. So now we are wondering if the medication is effective and/or necessary for her condition. The second doctor is from Europe and will return sometime this year. We need to re-evaluate this child and make sure we are not throwing money away on very expensive, unnecessary medicine. I often get the impression that the health care system involves more of a run-around than bureaucracy in the US.

  

Nie and I were working in the office the following day when Jonas called saying there was a family in Pasua we needed to visit. He picked us up along with two women form Msamaria Center for Street Children  (http://www.msamariakids.org/). Apparently they are housing two of her 4 children. The woman’s husband died recently and she is not financially able to care for them.

Pili

We arrived and Pili greeted us with what I would call inappropriate laughter. I would imagine that this could be attributed to nerves and relief as her demeanor changed to serious when she was being interviewed. Msamaria staff conducted the interview. I learned that Pili’s children had been at the center for 3 months and although Pili had visited the children several times, this was the first time staff had been to her home. Pili informed us that her oldest son is in Arusha and her husband died of anemia in October of 2011. It was not made clear if the anemia was a complication of something else or the actual cause of death. I found this possibility astonishing as anemia is so treatable in the US. 

Pili and her husband had both worked as casual laborers in the rice fields and she currently earns about 1500 Tsh (less than $1.00 per day) and cannot afford to care for her children. The youngest child, aged 4, is with her as she is too young for Msamaria. Msamaria staff will work with Pili on cleanliness and other issues with the goal of reunifying her with her children. The two girls are only receiving informal tutoring at the center as the children at Msamaria are only able to be enrolled in government school if they have a sponsor to cover the fees. I asked the stupid question of whether it was difficult to get sponsors and knew after asking that the answer was a resounding, “YES”. Furthermore, Msamaria will not visit again for 2 months. I have such a hard time dealing with how slow things move sometimes. Her situation is dreadful today. I can’t imagine how much worse it might be in two months with no support. Jonas talked with Pili about coming to the Children’s Center Friday to discuss enrolling the youngest. Unfortunately, she did not show up.

Pili's One Room House

I have been in some decrepit housing but this had to be the worst. The windowless mud walls admitted no light.  Light filtered in from the many holes in the tin roof. The single room was unkempt with buckets and jugs scattered around the dirt floor and the only bed was covered in clothing. It is hard to express how much worse this house was than others I have visited. I later learned that it had looked much worse when Jonas stopped by unexpectedly the day before. Apparently, Pili had “cleaned” because she knew people were coming. Nie talked with the landlord and learned that Pili and her family have lived there for 10 years and they have always lived like this. Nie and I were both hoping that the lack of cleanliness might be a reaction to her husband’s death.

Cleanliness is a contradictory issue from what I have observed. Pili’s house was the first that was disheveled and dirty. For the most part, Tanzanians seem to pride themselves on cleanliness. 

Squatty Potty at Children's Center
Equipped w Toilet Brush

Broom made from the Coconut Plant

On my walk to work I often see people sweeping the dirt in front of their homes to move the debris out of the way. The broom they use is made of coconut leaves bound together on a stick. Every morning on the way to work the shopkeepers are always sweeping or mopping. Most mopping is done with a bucket and rag. I see very few mops.

Washing feet is an art which I need to master. I am sure that this is not all tan line on my feet. I have observed women pouring water on their feet, soaping them and then scraping their feet over a rock.

I also am surprised when I see a house that does not have freshly washed clothes drying on the line. At our house, the driveway area is regularly hosed down and swept; the floors in the kitchen and dining area are washed daily.

Yet there are many areas where there are large piles of trash. There actually seems to be an order to the trash piles as they are located strategically throughout communities. They are consistently filled with blue and black plastic bags and are burned on a fairly regular basis just to be piled up again.

Interestingly, one of the staff from Msamaria was a social work intern who attends school with our intern Mary. We were talking about the social work profession and she and Mary had attended a conference over the weekend. She asked how social work was perceived as a profession. Apparently it is struggling to be viewed as vital and significant. I found this so curious because social workers in the US were dealing with the same issue in the 70’s. The conference was discussing strategies to strengthen the profession.

Univ of Va Group

Saturday the group from University of Virginia arrived. There are 8 students and 2 advisors. Since then, the house has been buzzing with their chatter and laughter. It is a pleasant diversion.

There are times I just want to bang my head into the wall. The stories and situations can be so disheartening. Fortunately these feelings are temporary and humbling. Mount Kilimanjaro was my saving grace driving home from Boma after we left Victoria’s. It was splendid, glorious, breath-taking and all the other words in the thesaurus for magnificent. I have always felt a powerful connection with nature and this mountain just makes the world a better place.  

Week 13 - Like a chicken with its head cut off!

May 14 – May 20

When poultry is decapitated, they begin to twitch and may sometimes begin to run around, that is how this idiom which means "in a frenzy" originated.   http://youtu.be/stfhRyjvv1I

In Case the Video Doesn't Work

This idiom is beginning to describe how we are feeling at TAFCOM. This was a very busy week making sure everything was in place for the Micro Loan workshop scheduled for Saturday. We have 8 Micro-Loan participants (plus one who is unable to attend) and a wonderful instructor who will somehow shrink a 5 day course into one day. Fortunately a number of the attendees are expanding their businesses and received start-up loans and training in 2010. We have also provided 3 business start-up grants to families whose situations are too dire to warrant a loan.

I love seeing the similarities in program development and management between Tanzania and the states. We are using a pre and post-test. Each person will sign a contract with their loan agreement spelled out. They will all receive a booklet on Business Management principles plus an accounting book to track revenue and expenses. The content of the training will cover marketing, attracting and retaining customers, budgeting and everything you would expect for someone starting a business.

Add caption

But that is where the similarities end. The differences lie in the fact that their income will most likely not exceed more than $5.00-$10.00 per day. For those who sell food, they must go to the market very early each day to make their purchases. Items are put in baskets and typically carried on their heads from the daladala (bus) to their home. If they cook, it will be outside over a small charcoal grill. There will be far more flies than customers. The vendors either stand or sit on a stool for most of the day. There is no such thing as a 40 hour work week or breaks or unions or health permits. Their stand is typically in front of their home and made of wood, usually with a tin or cardboard roof held in place with bricks or stones.

Food Stand

Working from home or close to home is very appealing for many of us but we don’t live in small mud or cement rooms with no ceilings and one window. And, for many, there is no water or electricity. For those who need water, there is a communal tap. Buckets of water are filled (for a price) and carried home. Some taps are a good 5 minute walk. When I was taking my bucket showers I only had to carry a half-filled bucket no more than 20 feet and it was plenty heavy.

An afternoon hour has been set aside each week for loan repayment. Nie scheduled this at the home of one of the women who is more centrally located. Nie will be there every week for the next 6 months to collect the funds and answer any questions. There is no mail system. One can purchase a PO Box for about $6.00 per year but most have no need and they are used primarily for businesses. One day when I came home I noticed this paper on the ground inside our gate. I took it to Ibrah as it looked important and he said it was their water bill. It had been stuck in a slit in the gate and must have fallen through. Fortunately it fell inside rather than outside our gate or it could have easily blown away.

I am sure there are many other differences I am missing but hopefully this paints a picture of how a large number of the people earn a living.

Tailoring Teacher & Nie in Crochet Hats

During my previous trips I spent very little time with the Tailoring Center. Now that they are housed with the Children’s Center I have more opportunities to be involved. Nie and I have brainstormed ideas for them to expand their training to produce additional items and I have also looked at websites. In addition, I have this awesome friend at home and her mom (thanks Robin and Betty) who taught me how to crochet and make rag rugs out of scrap material. I don’t know who gets more excited about the new products, me or the women. Every time Nie and I present an idea to the teacher she has the item made before we know it. Their enthusiasm is so awesome and motivating. They are now making placemats, cell phone holders, eye glass holders and will soon try fanny packs and cloth bread baskets. Maisha Designs will market them online in the US and I am definitely shipping a box home to sell. The fact that they are making items unique for a tailoring center will make these women much more marketable, skilled and diverse which can mean a better income and a better life.

Nie, Mary and I also managed one day of home visits this week. I was so annoyed at myself because I forgot my camera. I love sharing pictures; they can sometimes tell so much more than my words. (The pics are from another visit.) BUT I did get to try local brew. We visited 3 people, all of whom will be part of the Micro-Loan program.

Two things that cause me great concern when working with families is the poor nutrition and the unpaid school fees. I asked Nie about how expanding their businesses through the micro-loans would benefit the families. She shared that making sure their family has food is always the priority. I then asked if they had food would they then choose to add nutritious food to their diet or pay school fees. Nie was sure that education would be more important than nutrition. My hope is that at least the 9 people in the Micro-Loan program will be able to do both.

Dominic & Daughter

Dominic lives with her daughter and granddaughter in a very small and cramped room with one double bed, a coffee table and 2 very small couches (for 2 people). The door could only open half way because of the furniture and there was nowhere to walk. Dominic sells second hand clothing and I am bringing her shoes on Saturday that I have collected. TAFCOM has a number of families that sell clothing so I have made a flier and hung it at places in Moshi most frequented by volunteers.

Dominic’s granddaughter had been sent home from pre-school the day we visited. There was no notice as to why but it is most likely because her school fees are not paid. I seriously doubt that many of TAFCOM’s clients who have children are current on school fees. It was obvious that she was a bright girl. She is only 4 and counted to 20 in perfect English. She also was enjoying Mary so much that she hid her purse so Mary could not leave! 

Beatrice and her Food Business

Our next visit took us to a family of 10. Beatrice has five children. Four of her daughters are single parents. The entire family lives in 3 rooms. Her youngest child was very determined to return to school after having her baby. Her mother believes strongly in education and this child’s potential. The daughter finished advanced level secondary school and then passed the national test. She is currently in college studying accounting. Beatrice has sacrificed so much in order for her daughter to return to school and attend college. This is another example of the importance placed on education and the desire of parents to pave the way for a better life for their children.

Daudi is the only single father I have ever visited. This is definitely not common. His wife passed away in 2006 from AIDS. He is raising 7 children, 6 girls and one boy ranging in age from 13-23. They live in 2 rooms. To support his family, Daudi makes and sells his own local brew. Local brew can mean banana beer or other locally made alcoholic concoctions. What I tried was made from fermented coffee and ginger.  It was actually quite good and tasted much better than it sounds or looks. When the bottle was opened a cloud of gas(?) rose out of the top. It was also before 11 am in the morning! Mary and I each had a small sip. Daudi is a former boxer and used to teach the young boys in the community. He recently had eye surgery and is still recovering. It wasn’t clear why he had surgery. Partly it is translation but also I get the impression that there is not much in the way of doctor/patient communication. Daudi is also working very hard to provide an education for his children. He has 2 daughters studying Hotel Management and another who is training as a Tour Opeartor.

Mary - Social Work Intern

Later as Mary and I were walking home I was telling her about my experience with Konyagi and she said that she had seen people drinking something with salt and lemon and wondered if I knew what it was. Major flashback to college days at The Library!!! A group of us who worked at a campus cafeteria would quite often frequent this wonderful establishment prior to going to work for the dinner shift. This was obviously not a quiet place for reading and studying but it was great for telling parents that one was spending a lot of time at the library. It was a great little bar on OSU’s north campus. I just googled it and it is still there.

The weather this week has been overcast and drizzly with cooler temperatures. It is amusing that you hear people talk about being cold when it is in the 70’s. They are wearing more clothing and coats. I saw a man one day wearing a heavy parka and hood. However, I really can’t laugh as I am one who easily gets cold and must confess I have been wearing long sleeves and sleeping with a blanket. I feel more Tanzanian every day!

One final project before the week ended was to complete a “concept paper” to be considered for a grant from the Elton John AIDS Foundation. If they like our project we will be notified in 6 weeks and can then submit the grant application.  It was due Friday and, of course, we submitted it Friday. The grant would be the equivalent of $16,000 USD for one year. I was totally blown away by how much we were able to budget with what I would consider is a small grant amount. Summarily, the project would involve conducting 4 workshops in 3 communities, plus salaries for a Project Coordinator, Social Worker and Accountant. Added to that, Home-Based Care would be provided and a Micro-Loan program would be offered. That is a tremendous amount of bang for the buck. Please send all the positive thoughts and prayers that we get approved to move to the next step of submitting a grant application.

The needs just never stop. Nie showed me a list with 8 names given to her by the government leader in Pasua - all new people who want TAFCOM's help. I know I can never feel the desperation of these people but I do feel desperate for them.

The week also had its paradox. There is a young man that stops by the office daily with a variety of newspapers for sale. Nie usually gets a paper and one of the issues this week had the US story about the woman who put on a wedding for her two dogs to the tune of over $30,000. REALLY???? I just described what TAFCOM can do with $16,000. Can you imagine what we could do with $30,000? This makes my blood boil.

There are dogs and cats here but they are not treated like pets are in the US. Most of the dogs are used for guard dogs. It was difficult for Nie to understand how and why we dote on our animals the way we do. I totally agree that we are an overindulgent society and go to ridiculous extremes over our pets (and many other things). For those that each day is about survival it makes no sense and I cringe to think of the message it sends about western society.

Group Picture with Instructor and Staff

Micro-Loan Workshop

Getting back to my reality…
Saturday was the TAFCOM Micro-Loan workshop and we had 8 participants. The day went very well and everyone seemed pleased with the instruction and guidance they received. When a day long workshop is held it is similar to the states in that food and drink is provided. One major difference is that each attendee receives a stipend for attendance. This is a cultural expectation; the rationale being that they are losing a day’s wages to participate and the stipend is compensation.

De-Feathering & Cleaning

Food Preparation

 Another major contrast centers around food preparation. The teaching staff prepared the food. It was all cooked outside over a wood fire. The chickens had to be defeathered and their heads and feet removed. I was fascinated to watch this process. They will cook again for the malaria group event in June and I really want to help and get “hands-on” experience. 

Lunch - Pilau Masala, Rice,
Chicken in Tomato/Cocunut Sauce,
 Cabbage  & Carrots

Cooking Rice

Note charcoal on top to provide heat

 for top, wood on bottom. Heats like an 

oven and you can cook bread like this!

During my time here I have discovered that I get the most joy out of working on projects that empower and present opportunities for growth. This not only applies to the people we help but to myself as well.

The Micro-Loan day culminated with a group picture and I felt like a proud parent feeling confident that we had put our best efforts into this project and truly made an impact. Similarly, the Tailoring women are expanding in new areas and have the eagerness to continue growing. For me, I have discovered a depth of fulfillment in giving that I have not experienced before. It keeps me centered and gives me confidence that much more can be accomplished. 

Week 12 - Where has the time gone?

May 7 – May 13

The weeks are flying by. We are very busy at TAFCOM and I am feeling a time crunch because there is so much I want to do. I guess the “Do-er” part of my personality will never settle down. Also more than half my time here is over. I do not want to leave and am seriously considering a return trip in 2014. There are other parts of Africa and the world I want to visit but nothing could capture my heart the way Tanzania has.

Besides missing my kids, friends and blueberries, I am totally content. I can't imagine how different I might be feeling if I only had access to snail mail! The internet is amazing and I am so very grateful for the connection with friends. Interestingly I have found that I am actually gaining new and stronger friendships thru the comments and emails I receive from people I had less contact with when I was at home - an unexpected but pleasant perk.

I was initially concerned that I would miss the closeness of friendships and although I do, I have been pleasantly surprised to find that I can be very close and open here. I relish these new relationships because it makes me feel so much more a part of the culture. There are definitely times I forget I am white. However, it is always the children yelling "Muzungu" that bring me back to reality.

I am definitely learning patience. Mostly my impatience and frustration relates to the internet. As much as I love and appreciate it, I have trouble when it does not work or repeatedly kicks me off. When I first arrived I put a sign on my mirror, Mimi ni mvumilivu. It translates to I am patient. One learns quickly that things happen when they get done. Inconvenience is many times the norm. And if others don’t get upset or bothered, why should I? A great example of this occurred over the weekend.

I left work Friday (May 4^th) with a long To Do list for the weekend. I was able to complete many items on my list before Monday despite having no electricity all day Sunday (May 6^th). Finally at about 5:00pm I asked Deborah if she thought our house was out of electricity or was there an outage in Soweto. We noted that the meter showed 0. It was then she realized that she had bought the electric voucher on Saturday and forgot to power the electric box. I was so glad because I had some projects I needed to finish for TAFCOM. I also had to laugh because it made me feel better about my memory lapses! I started working on the computer and before an hour had passed Soweto had a power outage and we lost electricity until about 8:30 that night. It was quite difficult trying to squelch my frustration at this point. I was worried that I would not have things ready for Nie. As it worked out, Nie and I looked over only a few things on Monday and planned Tuesday as our day in the office. So I ended up having plenty of time. Lesson learned!

Amanda left Monday for Canada. I will surely miss her. I love having other volunteers at the house. It is always enjoyable meeting new people, sharing stories and making memories. Both David and Amanda were so easy to get along with. Maybe it just comes with being a volunteer. I also very much appreciate that I never felt an age difference with either of them.

Kids Drawing

So Monday and Thursday were spent at the Children’s Center. I had found some songs (in English) for the children to learn for the Malaria Group event in June. They are also drawing pictures to which we will attach their photograph. We are hopeful that some of the US group will want to help sponsor a child or activity and I have created a form indicating various options. I helped the teacher with the songs we chose and it was pretty chaotic, crammed into a very small classroom, trying to teach over 40 kids. Plus, I cannot carry a tune in a bucket; fortunately, children are very forgiving. We decided to divide the children into groups and this seems to be working much better. I also held my first English lesson with the tailoring women. I started with very basic greetings and fortunately had Teddy with me to translate. It is much harder than one might think to teach English. I so wish I had gone through TESL (Teaching English as a Second Language) training. It is definitely going to be a top priority when I return to the states.

3rd Floor Women's Bathroom 

Tuesday and Friday I worked in the office with Nie and Jonas. I will not bore you with the details (but will provide an interesting picture). Suffice it to say that much was accomplished and although this will be another busy weekend we will be very well organized and ahead of schedule for both the Micro Loan Workshop and the Malaria Group event. I truly enjoy the feeling of accomplishment.

Nie and I have planned one day a week for home visits and this week we visited 3 women who are potential participants for the micro loan program. Some of the beneficiaries of the loans are starting a business for the first time and some are expanding an existing business. These 3 women will be expanding; all were very enthusiastic and grateful for the opportunity. I can’t say enough about the sincerity and gratitude of the people I have met, no matter what their circumstance.

Market

Two of the women we visited sell second hand clothing. Unless one goes to a tailoring shop or buys from a street vendor, there are really no clothing stores as we know them. Everyone else goes to Memorial Market (the market near my house) which is huge and is widely known as the Second Hand Clothing Market. It is a unique and lively experience, full of colors and noise. Clothes and underwear are hanging from the individual huts. Each hut has a raised area where piles of clothes are mixed together. Shoes are handled the same way except that only one shoe of the pair is in the pile for customers. When you find a shoe you like, the vendor then must sift through his pile to find the shoe’s mate. Overall, the clothes and shoes are in decent shape and you can find some very nice items. You can barter which is fun and everyone does it even though by US standards things are incredibly cheap. If I were to go by myself the price would be higher (because I am muzungo and by their standards we all are rich) so I always go with Deborah and she gets the best price. The street vendors and those who live outside of Moshi will make regular trips to the market to purchase items that they then resell at a higher price on the street or from their homes.

It is customary that when you visit someone you bring a gift. For home visits Nie recommends money as you can’t know what a person’s immediate need is. (I usually give around $3 USD which for many is the equivalent of a day’s work.) For example, when I had suggested we take a bag of rice, Nie explained that if they don’t have any oil or charcoal to cook with, the rice is useless. As much as I prefer giving an item, I totally understand that I am giving more by providing funds because the family will know best what they need; certainly it is not my place to imply that I know better. Also, we know that the funds will be used wisely because their needs are about daily survival.

My thinking is probably somewhat warped from my social work experience where I observed too many unwise budgeting choices and assistance was rarely given to the client but to the landlord, utility company, etc.  I so appreciate Nie’s guidance. Our idea of what a country, society, group or family needs might bring more harm than good if we don’t consider the consequences of even our most well-intended actions.

  

Mwana

Mwana, who sells second hand clothing from her home, lost her husband to AIDS and is herself HIV positive. Fortunately, her two daughters are negative. Her oldest daughter is 19 and lives with a relative in Arusha where she is learning typing. Her other daughter is finishing primary school and her mother hopes that with additional income she can afford her secondary school fees. In the case of this family, I gave a small amount of money but I was also able to give her a large box of donated clothes that Deborah and I had put together.

Kanda

Kanda also sells 2^nd hand clothing but focuses on men’s suits, pants and shirts. Her husband is ill with AIDS and unable to work. In 2004 the entire family was found to be HIV positive. Kanda has 4 children and 10 grandchildren. Two of her daughters and their children live with her. The other two daughters are married. Recently her brother-in-law and his wife moved in. The brother-in-law is ill and they are all caring for him as well as Kanda’s husband. There are a total of 11 people in the home. It just doesn’t seem to matter about a family’s living condition. If another family member needs help there is no question that they will be cared for.

Mara

Cockroach outside our door

Mara sells a local brew. Not sure what is in it and would be curious to try it. She sells it to the local bars. She has 2 children and was very proud to tell us that her son was 5^th in his class. Her daughter is interested in hotel management. Mara would love to see her children finish school and be successful. While visiting her I noticed quite a few cockroaches; several tried to befriend me and I found it quite difficult to be discreet while flicking them off my leg. (The picture is a cockroach from home and MUCH larger than the ones at Mara's)

It is very difficult to capture the reality of the homes in a photo. This is unfortunate because as dreadful and substandard as these homes are on the outside they are even more dismal on the inside. The buildings where families rent usually are one or two rooms per family. They are very dimly lit generally with one window which measures approximately 12 x 18 inches. None of the windows have screens. The floors and walls are cement. Some of the walls are only about 7 foot tall and then open space. There are no ceilings, only rafters. Most rooms are furnished with one double bed and a foam mattress which is usually no thicker than 4 inches (that is the thickness of the one I sleep on). There may be a couch or chairs and a small table (like a coffee table size) that typically is covered with clothes or dishes.

I have visited families of 5 people living in one room with only one bed. Mwana and Mara rent one room. Kanda and her family of 11 live in 2 rooms. I did not see the 2^nd room but can’t imagine it is big enough for more than 2 beds.

Saturday – It rained most of the day and I did lots of TAFCOM work. Sometimes I feed Rahim and share my water with him. He has a cold and cough and now my throat is feeling funny - oops. I stayed in all day and did not go to the gym. Saturday is when I can do a long workout so I was sad to miss but didn’t feel up to it.  I finally got some pictures to share. It is really a nice facility and has everything I need. Music is always playing, mostly Bongo Flava which is Tanzanian Hip-Hop with a little R&B mixed in. It's fun to workout to because the beat is often a motivating pace for running. Here is a sample. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1AbydZaV1M&feature=related  The gym even has a sauna. It is amazing to me that anyone would need such a thing with the temperatures here. Although, on second thought, it might get rid of this cold.

Boniface (arms crossed) My trainer!

Workout Equipment

Sauna

Sunday – I worked some more until I felt like cabin fever setting in. Deborah and I went to the pharmacy. She got some cough medicine for Rahim and I bought Vitamin C. The Vitamin C comes in small 100mg pills. You buy as many as you want; they count them out and put them in a small plastic bag for you. We then walked to the store but had to stop for roasted corn first.

On the way back to the house a pikipiki (motorcycle) hit a pedestrian about 50 yards in front of us. My first instinct was to run over and help but I really had nothing to offer. My heart was racing and I just wanted to know that the man was ok. People come out of nowhere to gather around. It seemed like several minutes passed before the man was able to get up. He was helped up and put on the back of the pikipiki that hit him and the driver took him to the hospital. I was not close enough to tell but it did not appear that anyone was angry or showing any negative emotions about the incident. It is the norm here that whenever there is an accident the driver takes the victim to the hospital if possible. No police; no ambulance. (I think I have seen one ambulance in the time I have been here.)

We stopped at the internet café to get a movie. I am horrible at remembering movies (my kids will confirm this) so recognized very few. We ended up getting Finding Nemo. I have a feeling that licensing is unheard of here because the internet guy told us to come back in a half hour and he would have it burned to a DVD for us. This was fine by me because we now own Finding Nemo for less than a dollar.

Week 11 - Priorities Plus a Grand Finale Weekend for Amanda

April 30 - May 6

Nie and I continued this week working on the profiles of the families that receive assistance and support through the Home-Based Care program. Of the 24 families we have profiled so far, 18 are single mother households; 4 have husbands in the home. There is one husband who works out of town, and there is one single parent father. As Nie relates their stories to me I can’t help but feel incredibly overwhelmed. These feelings stem not only from the magnitude of the poverty and basic needs of each family but also from a consuming desire to do whatever it takes to lift these people out of poverty. I find it so difficult to prioritize and establish boundaries.

Unfortunately the cycle of poverty here is not just familial; it is systemic. The educational and health care systems, in particular, exacerbate and contribute to the destitution of these people.

Primary education is supposed to be free but each school also assesses a fee to help defray their costs; food is not provided; and a uniform must be worn by all students. After primary school, the students must then pass a national test to continue on to Secondary school. Therefore, if the student fails they have just hit a dead end in terms of ever gaining the skills needed to earn a living wage.  A report published in 2009 indicated that only 49% passed the national test for Secondary school and of those who passed 90% were selected to attend because there is not enough room to accommodate the students.

As I had mentioned in a previous blog, if fees are not paid a school can send the child home which could easily result in a lack of motivation and desire to attend.  A significant number of children do not move past primary school because of lack of income to cover the expenses. According to a UN report in 2011, only 36% of students transition from primary to secondary school. The biggest obstacles students must overcome include a lack of a proper study environment at home; an inability to master the English language; poor nutrition/health; and other economic related issues.

While discussing the families I asked Nie if when we visit these families she will inquire about whether school fees are current for their children.

Nie explained that she cannot ask a family about school fees because the family will expect TAFCOM to pay for them. The cultural rationale/thinking is, “Why are you asking if you cannot do anything about it or are not going to help?” This is so difficult because I would imagine that the majority, if not all, of the Home-Based families are behind in their school fees. This creates another complication when a volunteer decides to sponsor a child’s education and then does not follow through. This becomes a burden for TAFCOM because a commitment has been made. I am doing my best to help in ways that can have an impact but without a long-term commitment. This adds to my overwhelmed state of mind. Education is so important to me but here eating and health must come first.

The health care system is like nothing I have ever experienced. Deborah still can’t hear out of one ear, has been to numerous doctors, and been given new meds each time. This seems to be fairly routine when one is ill and causes me to question the competency of the health care providers. In addition to the financial burden of medical charges, repeated trips to health clinics are costly in terms of transportation and time away from generating income.

I recently met a doctor at the gym. He interned in the US at both a large and small hospital. He said even the small hospital was better than the best in Tanzania. For him the most glaring differences between the US and Tanzania health care systems were in terms of the technology and quantity of medical equipment, and the doctor:patient ratio. In the US, there is 1 doctor for every 300 people. In Tanzania there is 1 doctor for every 30,000 people.

Worst of all is the problem of AIDS. Embarrassingly, my education is lacking when it comes to HIV/AIDS so I have been researching online and asking questions of Nie. The first home visit I made when visiting Tanzania in 2009 was to the home of a couple where the man was dying of AIDS. It is a scene that will be etched in my memory forever. He was lying in his bed, looking very emaciated, with his wife sitting nearby. He died later that year.

When a person tests positive for HIV they are also given a blood test to determine their CD4 count (also referred to as T-cells). If the CD4 level is above a certain amount they are to be retested every 6 months. ARV drugs (Antiretroviral: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiretroviral_drug) are given when the CD4 count goes below a certain level. These are immune boosting drugs which are taken daily for the rest of the person’s life. They must be taken with food or can cause stomach upset.  Sadly there are too many who do not have enough money for food and rather than suffer the stomach problems will not take the drugs. In addition, there are multiple side effects, especially when the disease is advanced. Nie explained that the side effects are so bad that some do not take the ARV drugs. Another deterrent to even taking the first step of being tested is the stigma that is attached to having AIDS.

Martha, one of the women Nie works with, discovered she was HIV+ when she was giving birth to her second child.  The baby died during the birth. Her husband believed that the reason the child died was because his wife was HIV+. He refused to get tested for HIV and became abusive towards his wife.  When Martha’s mother learned about how she was being treated she raised the money to move her daughter to Pasua and live with her and other family members.  Martha was forced to leave her first born (5 years old) with her husband. Due to the stigma surrounding HIV/AIDS Martha is even ostracized by some of the extended family she is living with. 

ARV drugs are provided free by the government. However, medications for opportunistic infections are not. An opportunistic infection is defined as any illness related to a lack of immunities. Usually the symptoms and illness are worse for the HIV+ person. Examples include: malaria, shingles, TB, pneumonia. So we have people who don’t take their drugs because of lack of food and serious side effects which makes them far more susceptible to other illnesses which they cannot afford to treat. Plus not taking the ARV’s regularly can lead to drug resistance. This is an inevitable death sentence. How will we ever impact the spread of and deaths from this disease when there are so many obstacles to overcome?

The most innocent victims of this disease are the children. AIDS can be transmitted to a child during pregnancy, childbirth or through breastfeeding. Also, the disease progresses more rapidly in children than adults.

I shared some of my feelings with Nie. Fortunately, I gain a lot of strength from her. She agreed that we needed to set some priorities as she too feels we have been very busy with a variety of tasks. So this week was one of planning.

The Home-Based profiles are as complete as they can be until we make home visits and update our information. We will set aside one day each week for this beginning next week. We both agree that Micro-Loans and Family Planning should be our major areas of focus. We went thru the profiles and identified 8 women who would be good candidates for a Micro-Loan. We put a budget together and Nie will contact the women. A Business Management Workshop will be held on May 19^th. In 2010, TAFCOM initiated this program and sponsored a 5 day workshop. Our budget is very tight and we do not have the funds for 5 days so in meeting with our facilitator he agreed to condense the curriculum to one day. I also felt badly because his fee was more than we could afford and I had to work out a lower fee.

We chose to offer the Micro-Loan workshop this month so that I will have the opportunity to track the progress of the women over the next 3 months. This program has been so successful in the past and although the businesses the women choose will not necessarily move them out of poverty; it will provide them with the means to meet their basic needs and, hopefully, educate their children and be prepared for any emergencies.

Our other focus area is Family Planning which, again, is not even a consideration for a family who doesn’t have enough food to put on the table. (So to speak, few if any of the homes I visited had tables.)

We identified those families with child-bearing age women and will organize a Family Planning workshop for June. TAFCOM has held this type workshop in the past so it should be relatively easy to duplicate. Also, we had some volunteers visit TAFCOM recently and one of them gave us almost 300 condoms. We should have no problem distributing them. After all I am learning about AIDS and how horrific a disease it is, this workshop will be a great educational opportunity.

Our other priority is planning an event for the group coming from the US for the Malaria Project on June 3rd. There will be 16 people and we will take them to Pasua to see the Center and learn about TAFCOM’s programs. The children will perform; the Tailoring women will have items to sell and we will provide some traditional food. I really enjoy event planning like this so am feeling very much at home with this project. I will spend part of this weekend putting together an agenda, children’s songs and greetings, price list and sponsorship info.

  

When we visit the Center I am spending time with the kids but also with the tailoring women. They are learning to crochet and we are talking about expanding the items they make. A previous volunteer taught them to make yoga bags and she is now selling their products on line (www.maishadesigns.com). I have been talking to them about a basic quilting for placemats or blankets and making napkins and table runners. They already make purses, headbands and aprons. I am most likely going to mail a box of items home to sell. Any requests let me know.

Deborah, Amanda, Me, Jacqueline

Raheem with Cake Spoon

Friday – this is Amanda’s last weekend as she leaves for Canada on Monday evening. It was the most fun-filled weekend yet. We decided it was time to bake another cake. Amanda and I went into town for the ingredients. Deborah wanted a vanilla cake so we bought flavoring and decided on chocolate icing. I am not sure if I mentioned before that the oven here is very small and only has one temperature (which is unknown). There is no cake pan so we just use a large metal pot. The cake took over an hour and a half to bake. We had trouble getting it out of the pan and took turns banging the bottom with a wooden spoon. I swear it weighed 5 pounds. I don’t understand how we did it but it tasted great and was very moist. The whole thing was eaten within 24 hours. We had some for breakfast and it was great with tea.

Saturday – Magembe and Dennis were playing in a basketball tournament so I went to watch. Amanda was a on a day trip and met me there. On my walk to the courts I noticed a young man peeing into a bush along the path. I walked in the road but it just so happened that by the time I was near him he had finished, greeted me in Swahili and joined me walking down the road. It is not that uncommon for a man to relieve himself on the side of the road. I also saw this on several occasions when I ran at the field near the market. The men at the market always used the same bush!

Magembe 

The basketball courts are on the same road I take to TAFCOM. Most days I pass this particular house where there are 3-4 kids playing outside. We always exchange greetings. I passed them again today and they seemed so excited to recognize me on a non-work day. The kids here so easily capture my heart with their contagious smiles.

I could hear music blaring before I could even see the basketball courts. Amanda arrived shortly after I did and there were 3 other muzungu. They turned out to be some of the Peace Corps volunteers we met when we were with Andrew! The games were 3-on-3. Unfortunately, neither Magembe nor Dennis’ teams won but everyone seemed to be lighthearted and cheerful.

Konyagi (similar to Gin)

Amanda had wanted to try Konyagi, a local “spirit”. So after dinner we took Magembe and Dennis to Pamela Bar and I succumbed to peer pressure from the younger generation.  Amanda and I ordered what we thought was a shot of Konyagi with tonic water. Our server brought us each a bottle of tonic and a 200ml bottle of Konyagi. (Amanda did the math before drinking and figured it was the equivalent of at least 6 shots per bottle.) Fortunately the bottles of Konyagi were unopened so we sent one back. Our server then proceeded to pour half the bottle in each of our glasses and topped it with the tonic water. OMG it was way too strong. We kept adding tonic after each sip and finally asked for a second glass so we could divide it again. We both slept very well that night.

Sunday – What an amazing day! Ibrah drove the family and Amanda and me to the Chemka Hot Springs. I have no idea how he found it, the roads felt like an amusement ride as we were jostled and tossed all over the jeep going over bumps and potholes, through water and on roads that were deserted and in the middle of nowhere. When we arrived I could not believe the beauty of this place; gorgeous trees with monkeys swinging through the branches over our heads; springs as clear as any water I have ever seen. It was impossible to capture the essence of this natural beauty on film.  There was a swing to propel you over and into the water or you could jump or dive off the many tree roots that jutted out over the edge of the water. I chose the swing, twice. It was great fun, however on my 2^nd attempt my hands slipped and I belly flopped into the water which caused great amusement for the family and locals. The local kids were climbing the branches, jumping off edges and performing acrobatic diving from the ropes. They were totally fearless.

Chemka Hot Springs

Notice the tree roots

Me Letting Go

2 local boys together on the rope

An Example of the Roads we drove on

Another Road

Squatty Potty - Notice the foot  imprints

I returned home refreshed and renewed. Amanda and I went out for her last ear of roasted corn and as always it was delicious. I can’t imagine it is good for you since it is typically cooked out of the husk, right on the grate, over charcoal. We have decided that it is most delicious with lime juice rubbed all over it. (You can try this at home!)

Roasted Corn with Lime