PART TWO – The Reconstruction and Kigali Today
Epilogue:
To heal requires one to forgive
To transform and rebuild requires one to be open, receptive, and forward looking.
President Paul Kagame is a true visionary and is revered by the people of Rwanda.
Our City Tour Guide shared that healing and reconciliation are the keys to progress.
Imagine 24 years ago. Your country is bankrupt because the Genocide army fled the country with all its currency; your infrastructure is in shambles. Human resources have been drastically reduced since over 40% of the population has been killed or fled.
In the years following the genocide, the government led by Gen Paul Kagame began rebuilding. General Kagame made it his intention to portray the government as inclusive. Ethnicity was removed from all Identification cards. His vision was, and still is, a wholistic approach to rebuilding that encompasses infrastructure, the environment, education, health care, employment and more. There is still much to be done. Unemployment is high and more emphasis is being put on education.
President Kagame is in his 3rd term as president. Previously the constitution limited a president to two 7-year terms. A petition signed by 3.8 million Rwandans was passed as a referendum which allowed him an unprecedented 3rd term.
Nie and I had an uneventful flight into Rwanda and easily made it to our hostel where Mandy and Chico were waiting for us. I met Mandy back in 2012 when I was visiting Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. She is from Indiana and a former Peace Corps volunteer. Currently, Mandy lives in Mozambique where she is living out her dream of introducing Rugby. (You can check out her website: http://adedarafrica.wixsite.com/adedar) Chico is Mandy’s partner and is from Mozambique. He is a traditional dancer and drummer.
Jan 21 – Our first full day began with a tour of Kigali. It is the capital city, with a population of about 2 million. Kigali is built on rolling hills and is the cleanest city I have ever visited. Security police are evident everywhere, both armed and unarmed. The buildings are modern and beautiful. Picturesque parks and green space can be found throughout the city. I have always preferred the countryside over a city. However, learning the history of this city, noting the cleanliness and how attractively the city is laid out, plus the short period of time it took to rebuild, are most likely the reasons I find it so appealing.
Recycling is very important here. Plastic bags and littering are against the law! They also drive on the same side of the road as in the US which is the opposite of Tanzania and seemed to unnerve Nie. I had to chuckle and say, "Now you know how I feel!!"
Our guide was very informative and our tour included a drive past the Presidential estate, government buildings, the convention center and a drive thru some of the old and new neighborhoods. No pictures are allowed of any government buildings or the president’s estate.
As the reconstruction was taking place, businesses moving to the city were required to pay those who had residences; these were mostly low-income families. The funds were sufficient enough for them to buy land and build a nicer house.
After our driving tour we stopped at the Kigali Genocide Memorial. (see blog – Never Again). We ended the day at an art cooperative. Although many of the crafts were similar to those found in Tanzania, we did discover several items unique to Rwanda. We walked back to the Hostel and after one wrong turn found our destination just in time for dinner. The hostel staff recommended a Trattoria Restaurant, a short walk from the Hostel. They prepared Rwanda food and our meals were delicious, especially after biscuits and Cliff Bars for lunch. My vegetarian meal consisted of plantains, green beans, peas, zucchini and green olives in a tomato-based sauce.
Jan 22 – Sleep was difficult for both Nie and me after our visit to the Genocide Memorial. Rwanda coffee is very strong and I definitely needed it! Yesterday as I was getting coffee, a woman from Spain poured my coffee after she filled hers. I remarked that I only wanted half a cup as it was too strong and I would add hot water. She laughed and said in Spain they drink their coffee strong. She then said she did not want to be disrespectful and asked if I wanted to know what the Spanish call American coffee. She said they call it “dirty water”!! We both had a good laugh.
A driver dropped us at the Parliament building which houses the Campaign Against Genocide Museum. Taking a wrong turn inside we were able to see the Senate chambers (not in session).
Here is a great fact: In every year since 2004, Rwanda has had more women in parliament than any other country around the world! In contrast, the US ranks all the way down at 98; less than one in five seats in Congress are currently taken by women.
The Campaign Against Genocide museum provided a guide. Francine explained the details of the liberation, pointing out the many heroes who played a part. She was so knowledgeable and spent close to two hours with us providing so much detail and answering all our questions. No pictures were allowed inside either the memorial or the museum as a matter of respect.
Outside we viewed several statues and paused for silence at one. After 2 days of gut-wrenching emotion, it was difficult to hold back the tears. I put on my sunglasses, and after several minutes Mandy asked me if I knew I was missing one lens. Totally oblivious and engulfed in emotion I had no idea. It felt good to laugh at myself.
Nie had suggested that we find a local market. We were not disappointed. Kimironko Market is the largest in Kigali. It is a huge covered market, teeming with people and the most wonderful stalls selling everything you can imagine, from fruit and vegetables to hardware items to 2nd hand clothing, fabric, jewelry and craft products. Vendors are everywhere showing you their wares, asking you to buy. It is not a place for the claustrophobic. I loved it...so colorful, so alive.
We arrived back at the hostel, again near dinner time. We had put a lot of miles on our feet the last 2 days so chose to eat at Trattoria again. It was the closest restaurant and we knew the food was great. I tried a fish meal this time and it was another excellent choice.
Jan 23 – It was a very overcast day in the morning. Mandy and Chico were leaving for the airport around 5:00pm. We visited another Art Market within walking distance of the Hostel. It looked like rain and we wanted to get to Sundowner Restaurant which was highly recommended by Divine, who worked at the Hostel. It was starting to rain. We arrived just in time to miss a deluge that included hail!
Lunch is served buffet style and was one of the best meals I have eaten in a long time. We were able to have a leisurely lunch waiting for the rain to stop before heading back to the Hostel. We had only planned to go to the Art market and lunch so it was nice to sit in the covered eating area of the hostel and watch the rain for the later part of the afternoon. Mandy and Chico were flying back to Mozambique after a month of travelling thru Ethiopia and Uganda where they got to walk among the gorillas. Their flight was taking them to Nairobi where they had a 24-hour layover. Since Nie and I had a 4-hour layover in Nairobi the next day we decided to meet up for lunch at the airport.
Jan 24 – Our taxi was picking us up at 5:45am. It only took 15 minutes to get to the airport. We drove thru a gate to a security checkpoint. Our bags were placed on the sidewalk and we went inside to be scanned. Our luggage was sniffed by dogs and the car was thoroughly checked including under the hood. After being dropped at the airport there were 2 more security checkpoints before arriving at our gate. Between the checkpoints in the airport is a section where you can buy food and use the bathrooms. After the final security check, we entered an area that only had seating. So, if you had to go to the bathroom you would have to go thru security again.
Nie and I were a bit concerned because she did not need a passport and instead had a paper from Immigration that allowed her access in and out of Rwanda. The person at Immigration who signed and stamped it inadvertently put the date as 2017 instead of 2018. Sometimes security would ask questions and other times it was not a problem. Fortunately, the Kigali airport understood the mistake. However, they were concerned about a cylindrical shape in her carry on bag. It turned out to be biscuits and all was well.
Arriving in Nairobi, we found Mandy and Chico, ate lunch together and said our final farewells.
I absolutely love “small world” stories. Here we are entering the seating area for our flight home at Nairobi airport and I notice several folks from the US. I strike up a conversation and learn that one of the men is meeting his buddies and climbing Kilimanjaro. As we talk further I discover Patrick is from Minnesota. I asked what tour company he is using and he says, “Evans Tours”. Jonas’ nephew works for them and I have met Evans and several members of his family. Evans son, Rodin picked Patrick up at the airport as Jonas arrived for us so we got to have a brief chat with him.
I am very grateful for the opportunity to have visited Rwanda. Nie was a great travel mate and it was great to reconnect with Mandy and meet Chico. I found the Rwandans to be very friendly in a Midwestern way. I would go back again in a heartbeat.
Epilogue:
To heal requires one to forgive
To transform and rebuild requires one to be open, receptive, and forward looking.
President Paul Kagame is a true visionary and is revered by the people of Rwanda.
Our City Tour Guide shared that healing and reconciliation are the keys to progress.
Imagine 24 years ago. Your country is bankrupt because the Genocide army fled the country with all its currency; your infrastructure is in shambles. Human resources have been drastically reduced since over 40% of the population has been killed or fled.
In the years following the genocide, the government led by Gen Paul Kagame began rebuilding. General Kagame made it his intention to portray the government as inclusive. Ethnicity was removed from all Identification cards. His vision was, and still is, a wholistic approach to rebuilding that encompasses infrastructure, the environment, education, health care, employment and more. There is still much to be done. Unemployment is high and more emphasis is being put on education.
President Kagame is in his 3rd term as president. Previously the constitution limited a president to two 7-year terms. A petition signed by 3.8 million Rwandans was passed as a referendum which allowed him an unprecedented 3rd term.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jan 20 – Rwanda has a population of about 11 million people and is the size of Massachusetts. The country is divided into 5 provinces and 30 districts, each district has a genocide memorial.Nie and I had an uneventful flight into Rwanda and easily made it to our hostel where Mandy and Chico were waiting for us. I met Mandy back in 2012 when I was visiting Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. She is from Indiana and a former Peace Corps volunteer. Currently, Mandy lives in Mozambique where she is living out her dream of introducing Rugby. (You can check out her website: http://adedarafrica.wixsite.com/adedar) Chico is Mandy’s partner and is from Mozambique. He is a traditional dancer and drummer.
Jan 21 – Our first full day began with a tour of Kigali. It is the capital city, with a population of about 2 million. Kigali is built on rolling hills and is the cleanest city I have ever visited. Security police are evident everywhere, both armed and unarmed. The buildings are modern and beautiful. Picturesque parks and green space can be found throughout the city. I have always preferred the countryside over a city. However, learning the history of this city, noting the cleanliness and how attractively the city is laid out, plus the short period of time it took to rebuild, are most likely the reasons I find it so appealing.
Recycling is very important here. Plastic bags and littering are against the law! They also drive on the same side of the road as in the US which is the opposite of Tanzania and seemed to unnerve Nie. I had to chuckle and say, "Now you know how I feel!!"
Our guide was very informative and our tour included a drive past the Presidential estate, government buildings, the convention center and a drive thru some of the old and new neighborhoods. No pictures are allowed of any government buildings or the president’s estate.
As the reconstruction was taking place, businesses moving to the city were required to pay those who had residences; these were mostly low-income families. The funds were sufficient enough for them to buy land and build a nicer house.
After our driving tour we stopped at the Kigali Genocide Memorial. (see blog – Never Again). We ended the day at an art cooperative. Although many of the crafts were similar to those found in Tanzania, we did discover several items unique to Rwanda. We walked back to the Hostel and after one wrong turn found our destination just in time for dinner. The hostel staff recommended a Trattoria Restaurant, a short walk from the Hostel. They prepared Rwanda food and our meals were delicious, especially after biscuits and Cliff Bars for lunch. My vegetarian meal consisted of plantains, green beans, peas, zucchini and green olives in a tomato-based sauce.
Jan 22 – Sleep was difficult for both Nie and me after our visit to the Genocide Memorial. Rwanda coffee is very strong and I definitely needed it! Yesterday as I was getting coffee, a woman from Spain poured my coffee after she filled hers. I remarked that I only wanted half a cup as it was too strong and I would add hot water. She laughed and said in Spain they drink their coffee strong. She then said she did not want to be disrespectful and asked if I wanted to know what the Spanish call American coffee. She said they call it “dirty water”!! We both had a good laugh.
A driver dropped us at the Parliament building which houses the Campaign Against Genocide Museum. Taking a wrong turn inside we were able to see the Senate chambers (not in session).
Here is a great fact: In every year since 2004, Rwanda has had more women in parliament than any other country around the world! In contrast, the US ranks all the way down at 98; less than one in five seats in Congress are currently taken by women.
The Campaign Against Genocide museum provided a guide. Francine explained the details of the liberation, pointing out the many heroes who played a part. She was so knowledgeable and spent close to two hours with us providing so much detail and answering all our questions. No pictures were allowed inside either the memorial or the museum as a matter of respect.
Outside we viewed several statues and paused for silence at one. After 2 days of gut-wrenching emotion, it was difficult to hold back the tears. I put on my sunglasses, and after several minutes Mandy asked me if I knew I was missing one lens. Totally oblivious and engulfed in emotion I had no idea. It felt good to laugh at myself.
Nie had suggested that we find a local market. We were not disappointed. Kimironko Market is the largest in Kigali. It is a huge covered market, teeming with people and the most wonderful stalls selling everything you can imagine, from fruit and vegetables to hardware items to 2nd hand clothing, fabric, jewelry and craft products. Vendors are everywhere showing you their wares, asking you to buy. It is not a place for the claustrophobic. I loved it...so colorful, so alive.
We arrived back at the hostel, again near dinner time. We had put a lot of miles on our feet the last 2 days so chose to eat at Trattoria again. It was the closest restaurant and we knew the food was great. I tried a fish meal this time and it was another excellent choice.
Jan 23 – It was a very overcast day in the morning. Mandy and Chico were leaving for the airport around 5:00pm. We visited another Art Market within walking distance of the Hostel. It looked like rain and we wanted to get to Sundowner Restaurant which was highly recommended by Divine, who worked at the Hostel. It was starting to rain. We arrived just in time to miss a deluge that included hail!
Lunch is served buffet style and was one of the best meals I have eaten in a long time. We were able to have a leisurely lunch waiting for the rain to stop before heading back to the Hostel. We had only planned to go to the Art market and lunch so it was nice to sit in the covered eating area of the hostel and watch the rain for the later part of the afternoon. Mandy and Chico were flying back to Mozambique after a month of travelling thru Ethiopia and Uganda where they got to walk among the gorillas. Their flight was taking them to Nairobi where they had a 24-hour layover. Since Nie and I had a 4-hour layover in Nairobi the next day we decided to meet up for lunch at the airport.
Jan 24 – Our taxi was picking us up at 5:45am. It only took 15 minutes to get to the airport. We drove thru a gate to a security checkpoint. Our bags were placed on the sidewalk and we went inside to be scanned. Our luggage was sniffed by dogs and the car was thoroughly checked including under the hood. After being dropped at the airport there were 2 more security checkpoints before arriving at our gate. Between the checkpoints in the airport is a section where you can buy food and use the bathrooms. After the final security check, we entered an area that only had seating. So, if you had to go to the bathroom you would have to go thru security again.
Nie and I were a bit concerned because she did not need a passport and instead had a paper from Immigration that allowed her access in and out of Rwanda. The person at Immigration who signed and stamped it inadvertently put the date as 2017 instead of 2018. Sometimes security would ask questions and other times it was not a problem. Fortunately, the Kigali airport understood the mistake. However, they were concerned about a cylindrical shape in her carry on bag. It turned out to be biscuits and all was well.
Arriving in Nairobi, we found Mandy and Chico, ate lunch together and said our final farewells.
I absolutely love “small world” stories. Here we are entering the seating area for our flight home at Nairobi airport and I notice several folks from the US. I strike up a conversation and learn that one of the men is meeting his buddies and climbing Kilimanjaro. As we talk further I discover Patrick is from Minnesota. I asked what tour company he is using and he says, “Evans Tours”. Jonas’ nephew works for them and I have met Evans and several members of his family. Evans son, Rodin picked Patrick up at the airport as Jonas arrived for us so we got to have a brief chat with him.
I am very grateful for the opportunity to have visited Rwanda. Nie was a great travel mate and it was great to reconnect with Mandy and meet Chico. I found the Rwandans to be very friendly in a Midwestern way. I would go back again in a heartbeat.
Admittedly, it does feel good to be “home”.
I really got stuck at...Chico, dancer and drummer!!!!!!! I would have tried right on the spot to learn some dance steps. LOL. The trip sounded wonderful. So much to see and take in.
ReplyDeleteThanks Valerie. Sorry for slow response. We had a traditional dancer do a workshop in 2016. I have videos and can forward that blog post to you if you can't find it! Mandy shared a video of a dance he and a friend did at a wedding. The Dance was also a story so it was almost like a musical without words!!! luv u
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