One Step at a Time - Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro

Day 1

I woke up a nervous wreck, feeling quite anxious and trying everything I knew to calm myself. I even repacked again. Mussa arrived around 8:30am. Saying goodbye to Jonas, Nie and Ellie I was filled with emotion. Once in the van I was introduced to my crew and was pleasantly surprised to see that Kida, the dance instructor, was one of the porters. Mussa was my main guide along with Joseph, his assistant. Moody, the cook, I met at Mussa’s shop last week. Kida and Frank were the porters and Shiyo, another porter, would meet us at the park. The drive is about an hour and as we neared the Machame Route Gate, Mussa explained that Mt Kilimanjaro has 4 temperate zones. The first is cultivation. The area was lush with vegetation and it is the season for coffee and bananas. The 2^nd zone is the rain forest which we are hiking in this first day.

After all the paperwork was taken care of and backpacks readied it was about 11:00am as we started up the Machame Route. We could not have asked for a better day. Even though the sun was shining we were sheltered by the canopy of the rain forest. I was surprised at the lack of noise in the rain forest, only hearing an occasional bird in the distance.  Near the end of the days’ hike I was noticing the trees thinning out and getting smaller as we moved out of the rain forest. Arrival at our first camp, Machame Hut, was approximately 4:20. Overall I felt good. I took my altitude medication first thing in the morning and noticed that I felt a bit off balance with a mild headache. This could have been a result of the meds, the altitude, the backpack or even my glasses which are bifocals.

The porters always arrive at camp before the rest of us so that the tents are set up and everything is in order. I was greeted with a bowl of warm water and soap, followed by popcorn and hot chocolate which tasted awesome. I settled in and arranged my tent and backpacks. I carried my smaller backpack with just what I need for the day’s hike. One of the porters carries my sleeping bag and other items in a larger back pack. Porters are not allowed to carry over 20kg, and although I was told and observed other porters carrying more, Mussa keeps his porters within the limits and is very fair to his crew.

After dinner Mussa and Joseph gave me a briefing about the next day’s hike and checked in as to how I was feeling. This is a nightly routine and Mussa is very thorough in questioning me about headaches, breathing, dizziness, sickness, etc. It did not take me long to fall asleep after dinner. Being physically tired requires no prep for falling asleep.

Day 1 – Left Moshi - 900 meters (2,953 feet) above sea level

                Arrived Machame Gate – 1,800 meters (5,905 feet) above sea level

                Hiked 5 hours 20 minutes

                Arrived Machame Hut (camp) – 3,000 meters (9,843 feet) above sea level

Day 2

I woke up anxious again but not with the intensity of yesterday. Breakfast came in 3 courses. The first plate consisted of mangoes and oranges, followed by porridge and, lastly, a plate of eggs and toast. I know I am supposed to eat a lot but there was no way I could finish all this. Mussa and Joseph explained that today’s hike would be in the semi-desert zone beginning with a very rocky ascent  then an easier but steeper trail, ending with more rock climbing before we arrived at camp.  We climbed over boulders and along rocky areas that bared no resemblance whatsoever to a path. Some of the stones were so high that Joseph had to pull me up while Mussa pushed from behind. This was not a hike for short people! Joseph kept telling me this was the toughest day technically and I must confess that I thoroughly enjoyed climbing over the rocks and boulders. The part of the hike that had a smoother trail but was steeper was the toughest part for me. Mbula Wall was the final climb to camp. I chose not to wear my glasses today and found that I did not have trouble with my balance. Hard to tell what caused it yesterday but I was very grateful to feel more steady on my feet. I am loving my backpack which holds a camelback for water. It is so nice not to have to stop every time I want water. Our hike today took 5 hours and we arrived at Shira Cave Camp around 1:00pm. Joseph was very encouraging about our pace.

As part of my daily routine I am greeted with a bowl of hot water and soap shortly after arriving to camp. Knowing that there is no shower in my future for 7 days, the feel of warm water on my face is sheer delight. Another large lunch was served which included a ginger/carrot soup. I now realize that every meal comes in 3 courses so I sample some of everything. What I do not eat is consumed by the crew so I know nothing is going to waste. We had our first rain during lunch but it did not last too long. The sound of the rain lulled me to sleep for the next 2 hours. Before dinner Joseph and I hiked a short distance to Shira Cave. The temperatures were much cooler today but still very pleasant. While preparing my tent for the evening I discovered that I had left a side of the tent open and was visited by a chipmunk. Poor thing was petrified and after a few frantic laps around the inside of my tent I was able to scoot him out the opening.

I was feeling physically spent and realized that while I was enjoying the rock climbing during the morning, I had felt an adrenaline rush of excitement because of the challenges of getting up and around all the rocks. I used up way too much energy and just wanted to sleep. I had little appetite but tried to eat as much dinner as I could.

My nightly briefing with Mussa and Joseph began with a check on how I was feeling. Tomorrow will be the longest hiking day before we summit. We will hike up to Lava Tower and then back down to camp. This strategy helps with the acclimation to the altitude.

Day 2 - Left Machame Hut (camp) – 3,000 meters (9,843 feet)

                Hiked 5 hours

                Arrived Shira Cave (camp) – 3,850 meters  (12,631 feet)

Day 3

I was cold sleeping last night with the shivers. My stomach was a bit upset this morning and my appetite was minimal. I ate what I could and told Mussa how I was feeling. We always carry snacks and I was rationing my Clif bars so I would not run out. Knowing there are snacks made me feel better about not eating much breakfast. The hiking was very pleasant and I was remembering to take time and look around me rather than watching every step I took (thanks Deb S. for that reminder). However, we weren’t even hiking an hour when I got sick, vomiting and diarrhea. (Sorry to be explicit but this is not uncommon and is part of my story.) Joseph took my backpack and although it was not too heavy, this was a great relief. I made very good use of my hiking poles today and either Joseph or Mussa was next to me or holding my hand during the entire hike. They made sure I was drinking plenty of water and checking how I was feeling. I actually felt better after getting sick but did feel a little weak. At our snack break I ate some cookies and hot chocolate which tasted really good so I knew I was doing better. I have also added electrolytes to my water.

Moody, our cook, hiked with us for a while. The weather turned colder and windy with rain for about an hour. Mussa explained that because of my getting sick and the weather conditions we would not hike to Lava Tower but go straight to camp. It was overcast and we were hiking in the clouds. The winds and rain subsided and Moody left us for a different path. I later learned this was the Junction (4300 meters-elevation) to turn to camp. Since the weather had changed and I was showing signs of feeling stronger, Mussa and Joseph led me to Lava Tower. It took an hour from the junction. I did not realize where we were until we arrived. I was grateful that they chose to continue on; it was good hiking and very beautiful even with the clouds around us. The hike to Lava Tower is still part of the semi desert zone (zone 3). From Lava tower we enter the desert zone (Zone 4). This seems strange to me since it is cold but zones 3 and 4 are overall noticeably drier.

Hiking down from Lava Tower was steep and very rocky. Joseph had my hand the entire way. I was amazed looking back up from the bottom at what we had done. I was excited to get some pictures because words could just not explain. Unfortunately, my camera decided not to work so I have no pics of this area. After descending the rocky cliff, the trail evened out and we picked up our pace. I was very grateful for my hiking boots. I chose a pair that were a little stiff and higher at the top. My ankles were well protected from the twisting and turning movements. Shiyo, one of the porters greeted us on the trail. I love seeing him because he is my Welcome Sign that means we are close to camp. He takes one of the packs so the load can be lightened. Today he took both Mussa’s and Joseph’s packs. These porters are insanely strong and watching them power through, maneuvering the trails and rocks is jaw-droppingly amazing!

It was a 3 hour hike from Lava Tower to Baranco Hut (camp). We crossed through the Baranco Valley and could see the Derken and Arrow Glaciers.

Moody met me at camp with ginger tea for my stomach and it was wonderfully soothing. It took every ounce of energy I had to take off my boots and get in my sleeping bag for another 2 hour nap before dinner.

I have to confess that I am so grateful that I went solo on this climb. Initially I had requested to be part of another group, if that was possible for the time and route I wanted. My only reason was to save money since going solo is more expensive. It was at this point of the journey that cost became so irrelevant. I would have given Mussa and Joseph the moon to be their only hiker. They have all my trust and respect and they love it when I call them my sons! Being dependent on another person is not part of who I am. However, I feel like I have totally surrendered to their care, knowing they would do everything in their power to get me to the summit. Even though there were times I did not feel well, I never once allowed a doubt or negative thought to enter my mind. I also knew and carried with me all the kind words and support from all of you. I don’t even think I was feeling a confidence so much as a knowing that everything would be fine.

Mussa always calls me Mama Lee Ann. It is customary in Tanzania that a parent is called Mama or Baba and the name of their first born. Since Mussa was Lee Ann’s guide for her Kili hike in 2008, he gave me this name. I was especially proud to be called Mama Lee Ann by the crew because of the special bond I now have with my daughter knowing I followed in her footsteps and she has been such a source of inspiration for all I do in Tanzania. And, Neal’s inspiration as a determined runner has played a large part in my enthusiasm of both fitness and running. Even though I was physically exhausted, my legs felt strong.

During our briefing tonight, Mussa shared that 3 people turned back at Shira Cave and 2 at the junction before Lava Tower. I could tell that despite my not feeling well, both Mussa and Joseph were very encouraged at my strength and perseverance. Mussa continuously tells me he wants to go to the top with his Mama Lee Ann!

Joseph admitted that he told a lie and when porters and guides asked how old I was he was telling them I was 75!! We sign in at camp each day and I noticed that there is only one other man who is my age and all the rest are younger.

Day 3 – Left  Shira Cave (camp) – 3,850 meters (12,631)

                To Lava Tower – 4,600 meters (15,092 feet)

                Hiked 7 hours

                Arrived Baranco Hut (camp) – 3,950 meters (12,959 feet)

Day 4

I do not sleep through the night without a bathroom break. As we are approaching the full moon the night sky is simply gorgeous making my toilet trek almost something I look forward to! A couple evenings we could also see the lights of Moshi off in the distance.

I felt much better this morning but was cautious about what I ate. I am always with a thermos of ginger tea now, even while hiking. I am adding electrolytes to another water bottle plus have my camelback. My Clif Bars are my favorite energy food. I had been briefed that the first part of today’s hiking would be the most difficult. Again, although difficult, Baranco Wall turned out to be my favorite part. Climbing uphill over rocks, boulders and narrow ledges should have triggered my fear of heights. Perhaps it was the lack of oxygen to my brain but I was having fun and again felt an adrenalin rush.  One part called the Kissing Stone was quite narrow. The rocks fascinated me and I found so many nooks and crannies just the right size to give me the support I needed to pull through some of the tough areas.

I have switched to my camera and Mussa is also taking pictures with his. We both have a power bank which charges our phones so I am no longer worried about having enough power to get pictures at the summit. Today was a continuous trek of uphill and downhill. Downhill expends a different kind of energy and use of muscles. I had some concern about my knees on the downhill trails but they were doing fine. Of course I had the physical support of Joseph. He would use one of my hiking poles, hold my left hand and I would use the other hiking pole in my right hand. This was our routine and I found it so helpful. Mussa was always right behind or in front depending on whether we were traveling uphill or downhill. Our last descent followed by an uphill climb to camp was the hardest section for me; probably because I was tired and ready for my 2 hour nap but also because the hill we had to climb was staring me in the face and I knew from experience it would be slow and strenuous. Fortunately we were hiking through the Karanga Valley which crossed a stream that was the Karanga River. It flows into Moshi just north of Soweto and I hiked there with Debra and friends when I stayed at Ibrah’s in 2012. Although a little cloudy it was a beautiful landscape and the Haem Glacier was off in the distance.

I also learned that the Karanga River is the only source of water for Days 4, 5 and 6. So the porters will get water for today and then have to return to the river to refill their containers carrying the 20kg water filled containers to Barafu camp on Day 5.

Day 4 - Left Baranco Hut (camp) – 3,950 meters (12,959 feet)

                Hiked up Baranco Wall – 4,300 meters (14,108 feet)

                Hiked 5 hours

                Arrived at Karanga Hut (camp) – 3,930 meters (12,894 feet)

Day 5

Today is a shorter hiking day, but primarily uphill. Since I am so slow I usually add at least an hour on to our hiking time which mentally helps me, and I never ask what time it is or “Are we there yet?”  

Although tired I was feeling even stronger today. We had some beautiful views of Haem & Labaman Glaciers as well as Mawenzi Peak.

There are a lot of people on the trails and in the camps. Sometimes the trail feels crowded and at other times not. I am enjoying some of the camaraderie even though conversation is minimal and typically only occurs if we take a break with others. There is an unspoken mutual respect and admiration among the hikers and it translates into an energy of encouragement and support.

I was grateful that we arrived at our base camp around 1:00pm. Not only was a nap on my agenda but I also needed to go thru everything to pack for the summit climb. We ate an early dinner, had our briefing and went to bed early. We would wake up around 11:00 pm to ready for the ascent to the summit.

Mussa is a very concerned guide. He is checking on me regularly always telling me that climbing is very serious and one should never take shortcuts. Joseph was very clear that if either he or Mussa observed any signs that I needed to stop and turn back they had the final say-no arguments. This reality has been in the back of my mind the whole trip and because I trust them so much I know they will always make the right call.  I was not worried, probably because I was too tired, plus I found it more reassuring than worrisome. 

Day 5 – Left  Karanga Hut (camp) – 3,930 meters (12,894 feet)

Hiked 4 hours

Arrrived at Barafu Hut (Base Camp) – 4,600 meters (15,092 feet)

Day 6

This is it!!! I am not sure what time we woke up but the camp was buzzing. I was given a snack of popcorn and ginger tea. I found this quite amusing. Popcorn was the last thing I expected but I will never eat popcorn again without a flood of wonderful memories!

Mussa, Joseph and I headed out around 12:30am following a sea of headlamps heading uphill under clear skies and a full moon. The rest of the crew stays at the base camp since we return there after summiting.  The climb started out rocky, as usual. I warned Mussa and Joseph that I would probably be the slowest one, making many stops. Much of the way we were part of a large group which I found very comforting and uplifting (pun intended!). My thoughts throughout all of my hiking, but especially during the ascent, alternated between “one step at a time” to thoughts of all those who, even though not with me physically, were carrying me along.

In their loving way, Mussa and Joseph were frequently asking about my health and breathing. It is not uncommon to vomit or get diarrhea and the lucky ones make it behind a rock in time! Fortunately I did not get sick

I felt intensely focused, paying close attention to my body and mindful of any signals it was giving me. The temperature was cold but I was dressed in layers and quite comfortable. The climb is a steep ascent to the ridge; then the trail continues to ascend but much more gradually. We made it to the ridge as the sun was rising.  I was moving at a snail’s pace and did not care how long it took or how many times I stopped. I knew once we made it to the ridge that I would make it to the summit.

People coming down from the summit were so encouraging. It took a lot of energy to speak but I congratulated as many as I could. Joseph kept telling me how he had been hearing over the last few days how impressed others were that I was doing so well. Of course, some thought I was 75! Nevertheless, every piece of encouragement moved me one step closer. We reached Stella Point around 7:30 am. There is a sign and picture taking but Mussa felt it best we do that on the way back and I did not argue. Stopping for any extended time would not have been good. Stella Point is at 5,730 meters (18,888 feet). It would be about an hour from there to the summit, Uhuru Peak.  Along the way, I was stopped by a young woman from Minnesota (love you folks!) who told me she had seen me over the last few days and was so inspired by me that she thought of me as she made it to the top – WOW! I hugged her with all the energy I had.  Then another woman said to me as she passed, “You are so bad ass!” I was amazed I had the energy to laugh as I found that comment hysterical.

We arrived at Uhuru Peak at 8:20 am and I was overwhelmed with emotion and relief. All the back and forth congratulations between hikers just added to the experience.  This was ecstacy. I took in all the surroundings and was incredibly grateful for a clear day and the stunning beauty surrounding me. As I was basking in the moment, Mussa came up from behind me and hoisted me on his shoulders. I was so surprised I yelled, “Holy shit!”  and then said “Oops, sorry” which gave way to laughter.

We took our pictures and were headed back to Stella point in less than 15 minutes. It is not a good idea to stay at that altitude for any length of time. One thing I noticed was that I never got short of breath. I always felt I could fill my lungs and beep breathing was my norm.

It felt good to be able to encourage others now that I had some energy to actually speak.  We took more pictures at Stella Point and then hiked back to our base camp. I had been warned to be as mentally prepared for the downhill as the ascending. It is easy to be on a high from reaching the summit and not consider how very difficult the next two days of downhill might be. I am grateful for the warning because it was very tough. The hike back to base camp was like a slip and slide over all the little rocks. Downhill skis or a sled would have been nice even though we never hiked in snow. I hung on to Joseph and Mussa for dear life. I think they were having too much fun sliding me over the rocks. It took 8 hours for me to reach the summit from base camp and then only 2 hours sliding downhill back to camp.

I was greeted by a cheering, congratulatory crew who gave me a juice box and a chocolate candy bar! Lunch was chapati and soup and then I fell into a solid sleep for about 1 ½ hours.

Our day was not over. We were to be at Mweka camp by late afternoon. We left about 1:00pm and I started out ok but always had Joseph’s arm. Mussa had gone ahead to take care of a few things and would be returning to Moshi to make final arrangements for our pick up tomorrow.  Not too long into the hike my legs turned to jello, becoming weak and wobbly. They did not hurt they just would not function. It became obvious to Joseph that we would not make it to camp before dark because I just had no speed or strength.  

Because these guys climb so often they all know each other. Joseph recognized a porter he knew, explained what our tents looked like and asked him to send one of our porters from camp. Frank arrived a little while later. He took Joseph’s and my pack. Joseph then carried me on his back the rest of the way all downhill over rocky terrain which eventually turned to a more lush green as we neared the camp. I am not sure I ever unconditionally trusted anyone that much in my life. We did not arrive to camp until almost 6:00pm so I am guessing that Joseph probably carried me the better part of 3 hours. Just before we reached camp he put me down and said I should walk in by myself.  I was totally humbled by this most gracious gesture.

I ate dinner, covered my legs in Biofreeze and was ready for a good long night’s sleep.

Day 6 – 12:30am -  Left Barafu camp – 4,600 meters (15,092 feet)

                7:00 am - Arrived at Stella Point – 5,756 meters (18,885 feet)

                8:20 am - Arrived at Uhuru Point – 5,895 meters (19, 341 feet)!!!

                10:30 am – Returned to  Barafu (Base Camp)

                1:00 pm – Left Barafu

6:00pm -  Arrived Mweka camp  - 3,068 meters(10,065 feet)

Day 7

We had decided we would leave whenever we wanted to in the morning. Things went from bad to worse during the night. I became sick with diarrhea and was up almost hourly. It is amazing how creative one can become when you know you cannot make it to the toilet.

I was pretty weak overall in the morning but my legs felt better although every muscle in my upper legs were tight and sore. I was also feeling very emotional and weepy. I just wanted to settle at the camp and live there for a while. I enjoyed talking with the other hikers and hearing their stories. Without a doubt, this was the most physically challenging thing I have ever done.

We finally got everything packed up and headed out around 9:30. Moody and Joseph stayed with me and I had one on each arm traversing down the trail. It was another day of slip and slide although the trail settled down and was just steep after a while. We were back in the rainforest and it was so picturesque. I was feeling a little better but was physically and emotionally drained. Again it was slow hiking. Once you come off the trail, there is another hike down a road to the gate and registration buildings. Mussa pulled some strings and was able to drive the car to the end of trail so we did not have to hike the road which was at least another half mile. I was grateful beyond words as I was not sure where that energy would come from. He also had a lunch for me.

Once back at the gate we filled out some paperwork and packed the van. We took some group photos and Mussa presented me with my certificate for reaching the top.

On the way home we stopped at the Keys Hotel so I could treat everyone to a soda.  We saw some others hikers there and exchanged greetings. This was also my opportunity to give each crew member their tips and share my feelings and gratitudes. Of course, I got all choked up and might even have seen a few misty eyes among the crew.

Home to TAFCOM and more hugs AND a much needed shower!

Total hiking time over 7 days was almost 46 hours covering 37 miles. I have incredible memories of a fabulous and adventurous journey with exceptionally remarkable people.

This was Mussa’s 153^rd time climbing Mount Kilimanjaro – and my first and last!

I never forget how fortunate and blessed I am to have the health, resources and opportunities to do the things I do. I found this quote recently and it sums up how I feel about life.

“The only way to live is to accept each minute as an unrepeatable miracle.”  (Margaret Storm Jameson)