Jan 26-30 Back in the Thick of Things

Friday, Jan 26
Friends Together was founded in 1999 as the vision of Cathy Robinson Pickett and Steve Pickett of Florida. Within 10 years, Friends Together became internationally known for its work providing education, support, and a plan for living to families, particularly those with children infected and affected by HIV/AIDs. (https://friendstogether.org/)
Cathy was in Tanzania the summer of 2016 with a group from Friends Together. Their work brought them to Moshi and Arusha. Zara Tours has a charity it works with and Friends Together has been supporting some of their projects. Zara is located less than a 10-minute walk from TAFCOM. During her visit in 2016, Cathy asked about other organizations that might be working with people affected by HIV/AIDS.  A friend of Nie & Jonas recommended TAFCOM and a partnership was born.
When Cathy came to TAFCOM she learned of the sanitary pad project and immediately saw the positive impact for young girls and women. TAFCOM’s tailoring center sews reusable sanitary pads for distribution, especially to school girls. There is a huge problem of girls missing school when on their period. (Read more details in past Blog: http://connectingcontinents.blogspot.com/2016/01/one-big-happy-family.html )
Cathy is bringing a group again this summer. She is raising money for a classroom for the tailoring women which would move them out of their cramped space. In addition, her goal is to provide 1,250 girls and young women with sanitary pad kits not only in Pasua but other areas of Tanzania! The tailoring women are hard at work and although I cannot sew, I will help them attach the snaps. I see the potential for a new Guinness World Record of some sort!
Friends Together is sending funds for the purchase of material for the pads. Catherine, the tailoring teacher goes to Memorial, the 2nd hand market, and typically purchases flannel sheets which are the most absorbent.
Today, Nie and I went with Catherine, spending several hours and ending our shopping spree with 3 huge and heavy bags of material. Any local market is always an adventure and the Memorial is no exception. It is very similar to the market in Rwanda – large, colorful, crowded and loud!

Weekend of  Jan 27 & 28
It was a restful weekend spent catching up on emails, taking walks with Elly, and napping - which is one of my new favorite pastimes!

Monday, Jan 29
I will not bore you with details but I will be developing an inventory of all the books, reports and supplies at TAFCOM and Minnesota Academy. Everything will then be organized and distributed so that each school has adequate supplies and grade appropriate books. I cataloged many of the books last time I was here. Some of them are now at Minnesota Academy since there is now a designated space for a library. Suffice it to say this is going to be a monumental task. I am probably in the minority of those who enjoy this kind of work. Those who know me well are probably chuckling as you know this totally appeals to my sense of order and organization!
Nie was going into Moshi so I tagged along to go to the ATM. For a 2nd time, my card was blocked! "Nime tulia" means “I am calm”, and is fast becoming my mantra. I emailed the credit union as soon as I got home; they resolved the issue within 30 minutes – woohoo!
We are visiting an orphanage tomorrow and taking a number of items. I brought 2 adorable pieces of fleece with children’s patterns donated by a friend. (Thanks, Kim) I was able to cut 4 blankets out of each piece and spent the rest of the afternoon fringing the bottoms. I found this to be quite therapeutic in alleviating my heightened frustration over the blocked credit card.

Tuesday, Jan 30
Home-based care is an integral part of TAFCOM’s work and the foundation of the organization. Today we visited 4 families. I love the home visits even though they are emotionally difficult. Each visit presents a reality check of how much I have to be grateful for, as well as a reminder of the significance of humility and compassion.
TAFCOM maintains a profile on the families and individuals receiving home-based care. It includes family and health history plus how TAFCOM can be involved. For me, the most poignant question is about their personal wishes. There is not a family on the entire caseload that does not express a desire for a good education and better life for their children.
Our first two home visits were in the same divided house. I have been here many times before. It looks ready to collapse. The floors are dirt and each rental has one room with a small window, dirt floors, no electricity and no running water. There is no ceiling and the sun shines thru the holes in the exposed metal roof. The rooms are very small, usually able to fit one double bed, a few chairs or small couch, and minimal storage space.
Mariam is a new client to TAFCOM. She has 2 daughters from her first husband who died of AIDS in 2015. She remarried and they had a son. When Mariam discovered she was HIV+, her 2nd husband left and has had no further involvement with the family. Her young son is also HIV+. Sadly, this is very typical and a story I have heard far too many times.
I noticed some crocheted and embroidered pieces and asked if these were her work. When she answered that she had made these I commented that I had some donated craft kits that I would be happy to give her. We suggested that she could sell them as extra income. (Of course, Nie translated. My Swahili is nowhere near this level.) Mariam is Muslim and cooks and cleans at the local Madras which is a center/pre-school for young children.
Our next stop was to visit another new client who lives in the same building. She rents the space where Jasmine used to live. (We will visit Jasmine next week.)
Francisca’s husband passed away in 2016. She has 3 sons. Both Francisca and her youngest son are HIV+. Her husband’s family is unable and unwilling to help her and she is requesting a Micro Loan from TAFCOM as she currently has no income. She would like to set up as a local food vendor and has already secured a spot.
We also stopped in to see Rehema and Fatuma. I have known these two families for close to 10 years. I met them on my first visit in 2009! They have both received Micro Loans in the past. They definitely struggle and their housing is only a minor improvement over the first housing we visited. Both women are single moms and have worked hard over the years to make ends meet, ensuring that their children will finish school and have a trade. Rehema recently took in her oldest child’s grandmother (on her father’s side). She is 92 and very frail.
The stigma around HIV/AIDS is slowly improving but is still a very heavy burden, especially for the women who are single mothers.
It does not matter how many times I come here but every home visit impacts me emotionally. The feelings of unfairness that people in this world have to live like this never leaves me. I am a strong believer in paying forward. Those of us who live with so many of life's comforts have a responsibility to give in whatever way we can. Nie and Jonas are dedicated and passionate, working tirelessly to empower families and children to know their worth and to inspire them to move forward in spite of all their challenges.I am so grateful to be a part of their mission.
On our way to the orphanage in the afternoon we stopped at an ATM. With fingers and toes crossed I inserted my card and Voila, Tanzania shillings appeared!
Upendo Orphanage (https://upendo-childrens-home-cps.jimdo.com/) provides a home for up to 60 children. From age 3 onwards the children go to the nursery school, then to the kindergarten located on the premises. The children get a head start on reading, writing, math and English skills before entering a primary school.
I visited Upendo several times when I was here in 2012 with Amanda, another volunteer. I have never forgotten one young girl who was severely handicapped.  She was unable to walk or speak and had minimal movement. She had to be hand fed and required constant care and attention.
Meeting first with an administrator, we delivered crocheted baby hats (Thanks Barbie), blankets (Thanks, Kim) and some children’s clothing (Thanks, Chris).     
We were then escorted in to the play area where the children were enjoying themselves on a merry-go-round. The young girl was still there. It felt good seeing her and knowing that she was still alive but it is heartbreaking to see someone so handicapped. She is being well cared for and is now 15 years old.
There were a number of adults in the play area. Some were staff and others were interns studying Social Work at a university. The children swarmed us, climbing on us, clinging and yearning to be held, not wanting to share us with the other children who were also trying to scramble for a spot on our lap or some physical contact. I am sure the children here are loved but there could never be enough staff to offer the 1-on-1 love and contact that is so nourishing for young ones.

An emotional yet very fulfilling day.

Jan 20-24 Kigali Today

PART TWO – The Reconstruction and Kigali Today

Epilogue:
To heal requires one to forgive
To transform and rebuild requires one to be open, receptive, and forward looking.
President Paul Kagame is a true visionary and is revered by the people of Rwanda.

Our City Tour Guide shared that healing and reconciliation are the keys to progress.

Imagine 24 years ago. Your country is bankrupt because the Genocide army fled the country with all its currency; your infrastructure is in shambles. Human resources have been drastically reduced since over 40% of the population has been killed or fled.
In the years following the genocide, the government led by Gen Paul Kagame began rebuilding. General Kagame made it his intention to portray the government as inclusive. Ethnicity was removed from all Identification cards. His vision was, and still is, a wholistic approach to rebuilding that encompasses infrastructure, the environment, education, health care, employment and more. There is still much to be done. Unemployment is high and more emphasis is being put on education.
President Kagame is in his 3rd term as president. Previously the constitution limited a president to two 7-year terms. A petition signed by 3.8 million Rwandans was passed as a referendum which allowed him an unprecedented 3rd term.

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Jan 20 – Rwanda has a population of about 11 million people and is the size of Massachusetts. The country is divided into 5 provinces and 30 districts, each district has a genocide memorial.
Nie and I had an uneventful flight into Rwanda and easily made it to our hostel where Mandy and Chico were waiting for us. I met Mandy back in 2012 when I was visiting Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. She is from Indiana and a former Peace Corps volunteer. Currently, Mandy lives in Mozambique where she is living out her dream of introducing Rugby. (You can check out her website: http://adedarafrica.wixsite.com/adedar) Chico is Mandy’s partner and is from Mozambique. He is a traditional dancer and drummer.

Jan 21 – Our first full day began with a tour of Kigali.  It is the capital city, with a population of about 2 million. Kigali is built on rolling hills and is the cleanest city I have ever visited. Security police are evident everywhere, both armed and unarmed. The buildings are modern and beautiful. Picturesque parks and green space can be found throughout the city. I have always preferred the countryside over a city. However, learning the history of this city, noting the cleanliness and how attractively the city is laid out, plus the short period of time it took to rebuild, are most likely the reasons I find it so appealing.
Recycling is very important here. Plastic bags and littering are against the law! They also drive on the same side of the road as in the US which is the opposite of Tanzania and seemed to unnerve Nie. I had to chuckle and say, "Now you know how I feel!!"
Our guide was very informative and our tour included a drive past the Presidential estate, government buildings, the convention center and a drive thru some of the old and new neighborhoods. No pictures are allowed of any government buildings or the president’s estate.
As the reconstruction was taking place, businesses moving to the city were required to pay those who had residences; these were mostly low-income families. The funds were sufficient enough for them to buy land and build a nicer house.
After our driving tour we stopped at the Kigali Genocide Memorial. (see blog – Never Again). We ended the day at an art cooperative. Although many of the crafts were similar to those found in Tanzania, we did discover several items unique to Rwanda. We walked back to the Hostel and after one wrong turn found our destination just in time for dinner. The hostel staff recommended a Trattoria Restaurant, a short walk from the Hostel. They prepared Rwanda food and our meals were delicious, especially after biscuits and Cliff Bars for lunch. My vegetarian meal consisted of plantains, green beans, peas, zucchini and green olives in a tomato-based sauce.

Jan 22 – Sleep was difficult for both Nie and me after our visit to the Genocide Memorial. Rwanda coffee is very strong and I definitely needed it! Yesterday as I was getting coffee, a woman from Spain poured my coffee after she filled hers. I remarked that I only wanted half a cup as it was too strong and I would add hot water. She laughed and said in Spain they drink their coffee strong. She then said she did not want to be disrespectful and asked if I wanted to know what the Spanish call American coffee. She said they call it “dirty water”!! We both had a good laugh.
A driver dropped us at the Parliament building which houses the Campaign Against Genocide Museum. Taking a wrong turn inside we were able to see the Senate chambers (not in session).
Here is a great fact: In every year since 2004, Rwanda has had more women in parliament than any other country around the world! In contrast, the US ranks all the way down at 98; less than one in five seats in Congress are currently taken by women.
The Campaign Against Genocide museum provided a guide. Francine explained the details of the liberation, pointing out the many heroes who played a part. She was so knowledgeable and spent close to two hours with us providing so much detail and answering all our questions. No pictures were allowed inside either the memorial or the museum as a matter of respect.
Outside we viewed several statues and paused for silence at one. After 2 days of gut-wrenching emotion, it was difficult to hold back the tears. I put on my sunglasses, and after several minutes Mandy asked me if I knew I was missing one lens. Totally oblivious and engulfed in emotion I had no idea. It felt good to laugh at myself.
Nie had suggested that we find a local market. We were not disappointed. Kimironko Market is the largest in Kigali. It is a huge covered market, teeming with people and the most wonderful stalls selling everything you can imagine, from fruit and vegetables to hardware items to 2nd hand clothing, fabric, jewelry and craft products. Vendors are everywhere showing you their wares, asking you to buy.  It is not a place for the claustrophobic. I loved it...so colorful, so alive.
We arrived back at the hostel, again near dinner time. We had put a lot of miles on our feet the last 2 days so chose to eat at Trattoria again. It was the closest restaurant and we knew the food was great. I tried a fish meal this time and it was another excellent choice.

Jan 23 – It was a very overcast day in the morning. Mandy and Chico were leaving for the airport around 5:00pm. We visited another Art Market within walking distance of the Hostel. It looked like rain and we wanted to get to Sundowner Restaurant which was highly recommended by Divine, who worked at the Hostel. It was starting to rain. We arrived just in time to miss a deluge that included hail!
Lunch is served buffet style and was one of the best meals I have eaten in a long time. We were able to have a leisurely lunch waiting for the rain to stop before heading back to the Hostel. We had only planned to go to the Art market and lunch so it was nice to sit in the covered eating area of the hostel and watch the rain for the later part of the afternoon. Mandy and Chico were flying back to Mozambique after a month of travelling thru Ethiopia and Uganda where they got to walk among the gorillas. Their flight was taking them to Nairobi where they had a 24-hour layover. Since Nie and I had a 4-hour layover in Nairobi the next day we decided to meet up for lunch at the airport.

Jan 24 – Our taxi was picking us up at 5:45am. It only took 15 minutes to get to the airport. We drove thru a gate to a security checkpoint. Our bags were placed on the sidewalk and we went inside to be scanned. Our luggage was sniffed by dogs and the car was thoroughly checked including under the hood. After being dropped at the airport there were 2 more security checkpoints before arriving at our gate. Between the checkpoints in the airport is a section where you can buy food and use the bathrooms. After the final security check, we entered an area that only had seating. So, if you had to go to the bathroom you would have to go thru security again.
Nie and I were a bit concerned because she did not need a passport and instead had a paper from Immigration that allowed her access in and out of Rwanda. The person at Immigration who signed and stamped it inadvertently put the date as 2017 instead of 2018. Sometimes security would ask questions and other times it was not a problem. Fortunately, the Kigali airport understood the mistake. However, they were concerned about a cylindrical shape in her carry on bag. It turned out to be biscuits and all was well.
Arriving in Nairobi, we found Mandy and Chico, ate lunch together and said our final farewells.
I absolutely love “small world” stories. Here we are entering the seating area for our flight home at Nairobi airport and I notice several folks from the US. I strike up a conversation and learn that one of the men is meeting his buddies and climbing Kilimanjaro. As we talk further I discover Patrick is from Minnesota. I asked what tour company he is using and he says, “Evans Tours”. Jonas’ nephew works for them and I have met Evans and several members of his family. Evans son, Rodin picked Patrick up at the airport as Jonas arrived for us so we got to have a brief chat with him.
I am very grateful for the opportunity to have visited Rwanda. Nie was a great travel mate and it was great to reconnect with Mandy and meet Chico. I found the Rwandans to be very friendly in a Midwestern way. I would go back again in a heartbeat.

Admittedly, it does feel good to be “home”.

Jan 21-24 Kigali Today - Photos

Modern Offices and Stores

Residential Area

Residential Green Space

View of part of Kigali

The Art Coop We Visited

A Truly Funky Office Building

RECYCLING....Come on US...No Excuses
(Also no apology from me - the Environment is my Passion)

Mandy. Chico, Me & Nie

A Gate I Really Liked - Plus a View

The Convention Center at Night
(From Google Images)

Kimironko Market - Love the Colorful Fabrics
(From Google Images)

Kimironko Market - Fresh Fruits & Veggies
(From Google Images)

My Favorite Meal from Sundowner - Lunch Buffet
(The salad even had Ranch Dressing!)

The Eating/Sitting Area of our Hostel
(Taken at 5:30am so lighting is not so good)

Jan 21-23 Never Again-Rwanda Pics from Genocide Memorial & Museum

The National Stadium where 10,000 who fled there for refuge were gunned down.

Dedication of Campaign Against Genocide Museum
It reads: "We honor the brave  sons and daughters of the Rwandan Patriotic Front 
whose fight against injustice liberated Rwanda and ended the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi.
Your sacrifice is the seed from which our dignified nation grows."

Statue outside Parliament - Gen Kagame (in front)holding a baby as a sign of looking to the future.
Also depicts soldiers and victims

This woman was a Traditional Healer. The Genocide soldiers were afraid of her.
She threatened evil spirits and they stayed away. She housed  and saved 100 Tutsis.

Bullet-riddled wall of Parliament Building

Gardens of Reflection

Jan 21-23 NEVER AGAIN

This writing only covers my visits to the Kigali Genocide Museum on Sunday, Jan 21 and the Campaign Against Genocide Museum at the Parliament building on Tuesday, Jan 22. (The rest comes later as Part 2.)

This is one person’s observations, perceptions, and feelings. This is me speaking my truth and being sensitive to my feelings.
In order to take you on this historical and emotional journey, I am going to start with initial feelings begore my trip to Rwanda. I will then weave this story thru the continuum of experiences that allowed me to feel at a depth I have not known before.
To begin, it is important for you to know that I was outraged and deeply offended and hurt by the president's insensitive remarks towards African nations. I wanted to go to the rooftops of the world and scream.
I love the countries and the people I have met on this continent. A huge piece of my heart belongs to Tanzania and always will. I spent only 3 days in Kigali, so would never claim to be an expert on anything Rwandan but I can speak to the impressions this country made on me and they are profound.

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Both museums we visited focus on the country’s history leading up to the genocide, the genocide itself, and those who played a significant role. The Kigali Genocide Memorial is also the final resting place for more than 259,000 victims of the Genocide. Every year, more people are brought to the memorial for a dignified burial as the remains of victims in unmarked graves continue to be uncovered around the country.
The Campaign Against Genocide (CAG) Museum provides details of General Paul Kagame and how he led his army on an offensive to defeat the genocide army, to rescue survivors, and to take back the country. Also highlighted are the stories of those who sacrificed their lives to save others plus the many rescue missions that were carried out. The Parliament building was rehabbed after the Genocide and now also houses the CAG Museum which was recently opened in Dec 2017. However, there are 2 areas where bullet-riddled outside walls were left intact.
A brief history does not do justice in portraying the complexities that led up to the genocide. But for the sake of space and time, I will provide highlights.
Germany colonized Rwanda in 1884 followed by Belgium, which invaded in 1916 during World War I. Both the Germans and the Belgians promoted Tutsi supremacy, considering the Hutu and Tutsi different races. In the 1930’s, Belgium introduced identity cards labelling each individual. People who had 10 cows or more were called Hutus and those with less than 10 were classified as Tutsi’s. (Scholars disagree on the origins of and differences between the Hutu and Tutsi; some believe differences are derived from former social castes within a single people, while others believe the Hutu and Tutsi arrived in the country separately, and from different locations.) The genocide was not only an ethnic cleansing, but an economic cleansing.
Following a military coup in 1973, President Habyarimana established a one-party totalitarian dictatorship in Rwanda and ruled for the next 21 years. His Government and the media fed lies to the people instilling hate of the Tutsis. Years in the making, an intricate detailed genocide was planned by members of the core political elite, many of whom occupied positions at top levels of the national government. This plan named “Apocalypse II”, called for the mass elimination of the Tutsi and included lists of “traitors” targeted for killing.
There was a lot of unrest in the country prior to the genocide. The United Nations Assistance Mission for Rwanda (UNAMIR) had peacekeepers in Rwanda in October 1993, with a mandate to oversee the implementation of the Arusha Accords. President Habyarimana had no intention of following the accord and the extremists in his party did not want him to even sign it for fear he might weaken. On January 11, 1994, UNAMIR commander Roméo Dallaire sent his "Genocide Fax" to UN Headquarters informing them of the plans for the mass extermination of Tutsi plus the existence of secret weapons caches around the country.
On April 6, 1994, an airplane carrying President Habyarimana and Burundian President Cyprien Ntaryamira was shot down on its descent into Kigali. Within hours, the genocide began. Many cabinet members who had opposed the president’s plan were killed.
During the next 100 days, approximately 1,000,000 Tutsi (approximately 70% of their population) and politically moderate Hutu were brutally murdered. The commanders ordered troops and civilians to "begin your work" and to "spare no one", including babies. The Hutu had been trained and supplied with weapons in the preceding months. True to the Rwandan tradition of obedience to authority, they carried out the orders without question. It is estimated that during the first six weeks, up to 800,000 Rwandans may have been murdered.
Tutsi and Hutu lived side by side in their villages, and families all knew each other, making it easy for Hutu to identify and target their Tutsi neighbors. Villagers who refused to carry out orders to kill were themselves killed. The militia typically murdered victims with machetes, although some army units used rifles. The Hutu gangs searched out victims hiding in churches and school buildings, and massacred them. Over 5,000 people seeking refuge in Ntarama church were killed by grenade, machete, rifle, or burnt alive. People, including children, were forced to kill friends and family members. Neighbors, even relatives, turned on each other.
The killings were not simple in nature (if such a thing even exists) but brutal torture, rapes, mass graves.  The following is from Wikipedia:
“Hutu extremists released hundreds of patients suffering from AIDS from hospitals, and formed them into "rape squads." The intent was to infect and cause a "slow, inexorable death" for their future Tutsi rape victims. It is estimated by some experts that between 250,000 and 500,000 women were raped during the genocide.”
I have been processing my feelings for days. How does this happen? I try to imagine a person's mental state when consumed with fear, chaos and the choice of survival or death. How does anyone know what they will do? I think about the dynamics of group mentality that had to contribute to the extreme brutality.
How is the human mind trained for implicit obedience to authority? I think about being raised in a home with strong religious beliefs and political ideologies. I also know that somewhere in my childhood the concepts of critical thinking entered in. I have always been a strong advocate for the teaching of critical, analytical thinking skills both in our schools and our homes. Now more than ever….
A section of the Kigali Genocide Museum displayed a sign, Graphic Content. A video presented clips of some of the injured survivors - wounds and deformities like I have never seen. Another room had cases filled with skulls, bones and artifacts (clothing, shoes, rosaries). One such artifact was a child's shoe; this picture has been burned into my memory.
If there is such a thing as emotional nausea that is how I felt. I wanted to walk away but was pulled back in. I felt “soft” and guilty. I was not brutally tortured to death.  I was not raped. I was not thrown in a latrine pit and then stoned to death.  I was not present in the stadium where 10,000 people were gunned down. I was not one of the 19 who survived in a mass grave of 5,000 dead bodies for days before being rescued.
How could I look away? Isn’t it, in part, people’s ignoring, not wanting to believe the truth, that led to this and all the atrocities of the world past and present. Within the international community there was a lack of intervention, and there were many missteps that might possibly have prevented or lessened the genocide.
The genocide and widespread slaughter of Rwandans ended when the Tutsi-backed and heavily armed Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) led by General Paul Kagame (current president) gained control of the whole country by mid-July. The Liberation Day for Rwanda would come to be marked as July 4 and is commemorated as a public holiday.

The human psyche fascinates me. A nation of people has transformed from brutally killing each other, to reconciliation and forgiveness, to working together to rebuild their country. Again, they are living side-by-side, communities made up of survivors and former soldiers. The resilience and strength of the Rwandans is beyond my comprehension. They have evolved from extreme division to unity and forgiveness. We should all aspire to be more like these people.

To say I was emotionally drained is a misnomer. It was not my emotions but the junk and clutter in my mind, the ego, even the sense of my physical body that were shed. I was reduced to raw, pure vulnerable emotion.

“I see this time as a moment that is calling each of us to heal, to claim our voices, and to awaken to the truth of Oneness so that we can help bring lasting transformation to our world and restoration to this precious Earth.” (Patricia Pearce)

We must be vigilant in our quest for social justice. Being inconvenienced occasionally in order to help another person, giving up a comfort to ensure someone else is cared for is not a lot to ask. We have a responsibility to see each other as humans first, put aside our conveniences and differences if it means we can make a difference in a person’s life or protect this planet we live on. Can we think first about what is in the highest good for the human race knowing we are all connected? We must come together. The Rwandans have set the standard. They are the model of how a nation can heal and transform.

I am not naive enough to think that everything is perfect because, as humans, we are all flawed. But to know that a nation could go thru what this country did and move to a place of harmony and peace is best summed up in this poster hanging at the entry of the Kigali Genocide Memorial.

Jan 12-19 PICS

Here are the girls enjoying
 the trampoline

Camels at Weru Weru River Lodge

Weru Weru River Lodge Tree

Weru Weru River Lodge

Sevia Vegetable Farm

Sevia Vegetable Farm Greenhouse

Sevia Vegetable Farm - Refrigerator for Tomatoes

Crochet with Tailoring Women

Minnesota Academy

Minnesota Academy Playground

Minn Acad - Art work by Volunteers from Sweden

Amina, the young girl I sponsor

P-4 Textbooks - Note: Civics and Moral bk teaches Respect, Integrity, Peace & Harmony

Joan - Nie & Jonas' Daughter
Happy - Josephine's daughter (Josephine is Jonas' sister)

Jan 12-19 Flip Flops & Sun Screen

WEEK 1

Friday, January 12 - Landing in Ethiopia after a 13-hour flight and a screaming baby, exhaustion had become my friend. However, as soon as I stepped off the airplane, the smells of Africa, the sunshine and 80-degree weather energized me and put a smile on my face. Reality and excitement were settling in and I knew it would only be a few more hours until I was in Tanzania. I think Nie and Jonas were as excited to see me as I was to see them.  (For those new to this blog. Nie & Jonas founded and operate TAFCOM.)

Elly is back. She is the woman who cooked for me last time. It is not uncommon for some families to have a young woman live with them to help with cooking, cleaning and laundry. She is an amazing cook and I know I will be spoiled rotten. And she is very good about making me speak Swahili – even though her English is very good. When I got to my room she had made the sheet and blanket into a W and M for “Welcome Marian” and had folded my towel into a bird. (She did this all the time in 2016!)

I spent the rest of the day unpacking. I was able to check in 2-50-pound bags and they were stuffed mostly with donated supplies. Thanks to all those who donated!💗

Saturday, January 13 – Starting the day wearing flip flops and sunscreen was a great way to transition! Nie and I went to town today to get money, a sim card for my phone and internet. My debit card would not work at the ATM’s. We tried 4 banks and I kept getting messages that it was blocked. The last bank ate my debit card. (this happened another time so I was not overly concerned.) There are armed guards at all ATM’s and they told us the bank was open Sunday morning. I had notified my credit union before I left so was totally befuddled (and not happy) as to why this was happening. I had to borrow funds from Nie to take care of phone and internet.

As soon as I got home and accessed internet I emailed the bank. Fortunately, I had made contact with the bank manager before I left.

Sunday, January 14 – Happy Birthday Neal!! – Elly and I left a little after 8 and took the daladala to Moshi. I will always love the craziness of the daladala (refresher – it is like a VW bus but falling apart and they can cram over 20 people in it.)

When we got to the bank the guard said it did not open until 10 (we had been told 8). I had wanted to come to town to walk around and refamiliarize myself so Elly and I toured the town for about an hour. We met a couple from the US who lived in both Santa Fe, New Mexico (formerly worked at Los Alamos) and DC (now with NSF). It was fun talking with them since my kids live in NM & DC! They were climbing Mt Kilimanjaro the next day so I was able to talk a bit about my experience.

I was able to easily retrieve my credit card. The bank suggested I try it again but it still did not work.

Rajabu - age 17, Hadijayo – age 12, and Asha – age 10 have been in an orphanage since 2010. Both parents died of AIDS and the local grandmother took them in until she became too old and ill to care for them. Nie and I visit them whenever I am here. On our way to Kili Kids Nie picked up some rice and treats for the kids. There are currently 24 kids ranging in age from 3 ½ to 17. When we arrived, we met a father and son team from Australia constructing a building.  Our visit was short this time because the son had downloaded Lion King and the children were glued to his computer.

Before going home, we stopped at Weru Weru River Lodge. It is gorgeous and I would describe it as a resort. It is a hotel with restaurant and bar. The outside area has tables and chairs, a swimming pool, bikes for the kids, a trampoline AND Camels to ride. The coolest part is that it costs nothing to go there. Moshi has several places like this that I have visited. We had Joan (Nie & Jonas’ daughter), Happy (Jonas’s sister’s daughter) and Mwantumu, a neighbor girl. The girls loved the trampoline and the weather was perfect for relaxing outside. (I know I should stop mentioning that it is sunny and in the 80’s every day!!)

Monday, January 15-I was anxious to resolve my debit card issue. However, there is an 8-hour time difference. It is 8 hours earlier in the US (EST) so I knew I had to wait until 4:30 pm here for the bank to open. Michael (friend/SO) was going to the bank for me. As much as I love Martin Luther King, I had forgotten it was MLK Day and all banks were closed. ARGGHH!

Nie and I spent the morning talking about what needed to be done, reviewing documents and materials and setting priorities. I am still napping to get caught up on the time change.

Tuesday, January 16-Today Jonas, Nie, and Nimwinda visited Sevia, an agricultural research and education project focusing on vegetable production. They have 16 acres and are funded by the Dutch government. Nimwinda, who is Nie’s cousin, recently finished school in Agricultural Management. Jonas has been using part of the land at Minnesota Academy to grow corn for sale and use in the children’s lunches. He is wishing to expand and grow other crops such as tomatoes and peppers. 

(http://www.sevia.biz/) Jonas and his oldest son have attended the trainings on irrigation. Sevia has been in operation for 4 years and already impacted 23,000 farmers. This is the kind of progress I love to see.

Wednesday, January 17-Today I got to spend time with the Tailoring women. These are young women who, for a variety of reasons, were unable to pass the National test that is required of all students in order to move to the next level of education. One reason many girls fail these tests is because they miss school when they are menstruating. Sanitary pads are too expensive, so the girls stay home. This is also an issue for some of the teachers. When I was here in 2016, we started a Reusable Sanitary Pad Project. Patterns and material were purchased/donated and the women learned how to make them. They were distributed not only to TAFCOM staff but to area school girls along with a Reproductive Health workshop. Another volunteer plus a US organization, Friends Together, visited shortly after I left in 2016 and with their support the project is still going strong.

Today we took a short break to teach crochet. I am a newbie but know enough of the basic stitches to get by (TY Barbie). As it turns out, Katherine, who is the tailoring teacher is an expert at crochet. Looks like she will teach and I will be with the students! Most of them also new the basics. I brought yarn so this will be our fun time together.

I have a favorite place I like to walk along the railroad tracks and if Mt Kilimanjaro (Kili from now on) is not cloud covered, the view is breathtaking. Today’s walk was to find the shoe repair fundi (worker) who had fixed a pair of sandals last time I was here. This time I brought 2 pairs of sandals, one that had separated and needed to be sewn together. I also noticed that the bottoms on my other pair were wearing down and slitting. Return in one hour, I was told.

After leaving the shoes we walked over to Nie’s mother’s for a visit. On our walk home, we stopped to pick up my shoes which were ready in less than an hour and cost less than $1.50 for both repairs!

Thursday, January 18-Nie, Jonas and I drove out to Minnesota Academy, the primary school. There has been tremendous progress since I was here in 2016. Additional classrooms now make it possible for children to attend grades 1-4. Space has been built for offices and a library. And 2 new classrooms are under construction. Even some of the trees and shrubs we planted in 2016 have survived and grown!

I met with Ibrahim, the Head teacher to take a tour and discuss the needs of the school. Most of the classroom walls are bare or have hand drawn/written posters. The floors are cement and one classroom needs windows. The teachers need shelves for their teaching aids and the school is planning to implement activity centers and needs mats. I always walk away overwhelmed by the needs but the progress that has been made over 2 years is very hopeful and impressive.

Many of the children cannot afford tuition or can only pay a small amount. Each class is supplied a few textbooks that are shared by those who, again, cannot afford them. I sponsor Amina who is in P-4. Today we are going to town to buy her textbooks. (If anyone is interested in sponsoring a child or any portion of a child’s educational needs, feel free to email me for info.)

Friday, January 19 – I finally woke up with enough time and motivation to go for a 30-minute walk/run. The road I have used in the past is dirt and currently in the worst shape I have ever seen it. Huge potholes, enormous ruts and puddles make many parts of the road almost impassable. It is entertaining to watch the motorcycles and cars not only maneuver the road but also all the schoolchildren walking to school. It appears there is an attempt to fill in the holes and ruts as there are several areas where large piles of rock and dirt line one half of the road. I will look forward to when this is accomplished.

Nie and I finished going thru some materials and I am now ready to dive in. We developed a 5-year strategic plan when I was here in 2016 and it will be my guide. Fridays have been set aside for English Lessons for the Tailoring women. This will help me as much as it will help them. I have no idea of their levels of English so our first lesson was on Greetings. The teacher in me is going to love this!!!
We ended the day with Joan and Happy putting on a fashion show of some of the clothes I brought (Thanks Chris).

As my first week comes to a close I feel as though I never left. I am excited at all that can be accomplished and love being surrounded by all the wonderful people here!