JUNE
19, Thursday
I
am very excited about observing the teachers and teaching some lessons. There
is a bookshelf full of donated resources that I am determined to organize
before I leave. I have a feeling there is a lot of potential on those shelves. I
selected some materials and coloring books for the Upper Level class. I will
observe on Tuesday and teach a lesson on Thursday. The Upper Level class is
working on adding a series of 3 numbers form 1-10, learning the difference
between likes and dislikes, and studying the importance of various foods.
The
three tailoring students who will study Finishing and Design are going to Moshi
today to meet their instructor. Nie shared that she had called someone to
repair three of the sewing machines. We had a discussion about the need for
additional sewing machines and decided there was room to add 3 more. Currently
there are more students than machines. When the second building was being
constructed at the center, one of the classrooms was for pre-school and the second
was to be an enlarged tailoring training room. However, the demand for pre-school
students was so high it was decided to utilize this building solely for
pre-school. There are 81 students who attend plus a waiting list.
We
learned that Upendo, one of the Upper Level teachers was hit by a bodaboda (motorcycle)
on her way walking to the center this morning. She is in the local Pasua
Hospital. It was a hit and run accident. Upendo was knocked unconscious and other
motorcycle drivers stopped and transported her to the hospital.
On
our way to take the tailoring students to Moshi we stopped at the hospital.
Upendo was awake and alert. She is to stay for the day for observation. I was
to be dropped off for lunch with Deb and the women who work with the lepers. We
were delayed at the hospital so I was dropped off first and will visit the
tailors another day.
I
met Marilyn and Susan from the US who do missionary work. One of their projects
involves a group of about 35 lepers who live in Moshi. We had an interesting
lunch conversation and Deb and I will accompany Marilyn and Susan to the “Leper
Colony” later in the day.
It
is not really a ”colony” so much as it is a neighborhood like any other but located
in Njoro ward, the poorest area of Moshi (followed is second). Marilyn comes to
Tanzania for a month each year and Susan comes with her when she can.
I
wanted to research the prevalence of leprosy and learned that it is even in the
US but much more widespread in poor developing countries. Leprosy is a chronic infectious
disease. It mainly affects the skin, peripheral nerves (nerves that go to
places like hands and feet) and mucous membranes. Similar to tuberculosis, it
is spread by an infected individual through coughing and sneezing. Most people
have a natural immunity even after being infected. Those with poor or impaired
immune systems are more likely to develop leprosy. In 2012, the World Health
Organization ranked Tanzania 9th in the world for new cases of
Leprosy (2,528). The US ranks 48th with an average of 150-200 new
cases per year.
It
is a curable disease and early detection is vitally important. Without
treatment patients suffer irreversible damage to their skin, nerves and eyes
resulting in disfigurement, paralysis and blindness.
The
“lepers” are shunned by locals and, as I discovered when I met them, are the
street beggars I pass on a regular basis in Moshi. Many are missing extremities
such as fingers and toes, even hands and legs. It is hard to know how to handle
begging. I have always walked past finding it difficult to even make eye
contact. I can no longer do this; I now have a name to put with their faces.
These are among the most desperate of the poor. They are unable to work,
shunned by others and only have each other for companionship. The government
provides housing and occasionally brings in food.
Especially
Marilyn, but we were all greeted like long lost relatives. It was quite the
celebration with singing, dancing and praying. They wanted us to take pictures
and had no qualms about showing us their disfigured or missing hands and feet.
Most were elderly. There was one young woman aged 21 years, a mother of two.
Marilyn
and Susan brought inflatable solar lights for each of the families as none of
them have electricity. I do hope they understood the directions. I was also
concerned because a large number of the people had only stubs for hands and
there was an on/off button on the light. I am sure they will help each other as
they are a very close community. Marilyn explained that next month she would be
bringing food or providing shoes for each family, a decision each family will
have to make.
On
some levels I am still processing this experience. It is very strange to step
into a situation that I had no idea even existed. To participate in a mere hour
of their life and feel their joyful expressiveness, despite their woeful
existence, is yet another stark reminder of how we have nothing to complain
about and everything to be grateful for.
JUNE
20, Friday
I
worked at home today and also got in a good, long run. Other than that it was a
relaxing, peaceful day.
JUNE
21, Saturday
I
met up with Jenn and some other volunteers for a trip to Chemka Hot Springs.
Chemka is a mineral spring that originates from Mt Kilimanjaro ground waters.
The crystal clear water remains a constant 79 degrees (26 Celsius). This was my
second visit and a favorite spot of which I never tire. I also love going
anywhere there is water because I know I will leave with clean feet.
It
was about an hour drive from Moshi. Half of the roads are paved the other half
indistinguishable dirt roads. The question popped in my head as to how many
calories are burned from being jostled and bumped about in a jeep for a 20
minute period!
The
springs are in the middle of nowhere. The water reflects a blue-green
transparency which in parts reaches a depth of 20 feet. It is surrounded by
beautiful palm and fig trees whose roots are exposed and intertwined like a
work of crochet.
Several
options are available for entering the water. One can crawl over the roots and
rocks or for the more adventurous there is a rope swing with a wood T-bar. For
those with no fear, climbing one of the trees and jumping in is another route.
I chose the rope swing (see video for a good laugh). Because I am so short I
could not reach the T-bar so Muksin, our driver, had to hoist me up. There is a
current that floats you along and then provides a good workout when returning
to the main pool area. Hanging around the shallow rock area near the water’s
edge are small fish that offer a natural exfoliation by nibbling away at your
dead skin. It tickles more than hurts although there is an occasional biter.
Evidently there are salons in the western world that offer fish pedicures
ranging in price from $30-$45 for a 15 minute session. The cynic in me has a
low tolerance for such First World problems.
Being
a very popular place I counted 25 visitors at one point in the afternoon. It is
a wonderful place for relaxing and solitude but we enjoyed meeting and talking
with other volunteers from around the world and learning about their work here.
Plus there were several daredevils doing flips and jumping from the trees.
Some
of the locals have a food stand where they make Chips Mayai, an omelet with
French Fries. I have never met anyone who did not love this traditional dish.
Jenn and I shared a plate and finished off the bottle of hot sauce as a
condiment.
I
returned home refreshed, relaxed and ready for a good night’s sleep.
JUNE
22, Sunday – I
decided that sleeping in was a priority. I gave Neema some money Saturday night
to buy some vegetables from the church donations.
While
eating lunch, Neema received a call from her family about a motorcycle
accident. At first she thought it was an uncle. The accident occurred near her
home in Arusha (about an hour and a half from Moshi). He suffered head injuries
and was brought to KCMC Hospital (Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Center) in
Moshi because of the seriousness of his condition and the need for surgery. Neema
asked if I would go to the hospital with her. When we arrived it turned out
that the patient was a 6 year old nephew. We were not allowed in the room
unless in a hospital gown so Neema talked with the child’s mother. Information
was vague and there were many unanswered questions.
Apparently
Neema comes from a very large family; her grandfather had 4 wives. The exact
relation of the woman was never clear to me but I think the woman was a
step-aunt. Neema had never met this family. The family network connection runs
deep in this culture and although they had never met, it was just understood
that family bonds trump everything else. In 2013, Neema spent two months at
KCMC to help care for her sister-in-law.
I
am not one of those people who have an aversion to hospitals. However, visiting
the hospitals here is very tough. KCMC is known as one of the best hospitals in
Tanzania. Most of us cannot recall the condition of hospitals in the US 50 or
60 years ago. Wandering through the hospital is like a walk back in time. The
walls are institutional gray. Walking down the corridors, cots line the walls
filled with patients because the rooms are full. It is easy to see into the
rooms which easily have 6-8 beds or more. Staff is scarce. The doctor patient
ratio in Tanzania is 1 doctor for every 30,000 people; in the US we have 1
doctor for every 300 people. There is not enough staff for round-the-clock care
so a family member typically stays at the hospital sleeping in the room or in
the hall. Neema said she slept on the floor with just a Kanga (traditional cotton
material) for a covering. No food is served; visiting hours are scheduled
around meal times so family members can provide food for the patient. Vendors
line an area outside the hospital grounds. Laundry is done by the family member
and I observed a clothes line full of laundry and other items drying in the
grass.
The
ICU also has multiple beds. Neema and I were able to view the room thru
enclosed glass. It was an emotional jolt when the mother pulled back the
curtain to show us her son, lying comatose, his head wrapped in bandages. My
voice quivered when I spoke to the mother and I could not hold back the tears.
I have no idea her financial situation but gave her some funds for food after
checking with Neema. I knew that Neema had asked me to accompany her for
emotional support; I would not have wanted to go alone. It was a quiet trip
home.
I
was definitely looking forward to game night as a diversion from the afternoon.
Since Mary is the queen of game night, Neema and I allowed our competitive
spirit to rule and decided that if Mary won we would play two games but if either
of us won we would only play one! I am the new Queen of Phase 10!!
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