Uganda - The House/Farm

Sept 2- Sept 4

Sunday, Sept 2

Peter returned to Kampala today. What should have been a 3 hour drive took him more than 6 hours because the traffic was so bad; and this is Sunday.

Mami is loved and respected by those who work and visit the House/Farm. She is a kind and good-hearted soul who treats everyone in a very loving manner. Two single moms and their children live at the House/Farm doing cooking, cleaning, laundry and other farm chores. Betty, who is 23, has been at the House/Farm for 2 years and has 2 daughters, Maria age 3 and Hilaria age 8 months. Anita is 18 with a 13 month old, Vina. She works when there are volunteers or extra work. A group of about 7 men work the farming chores during the day, two of them live here.  Mami oversees everyone and this place runs very efficiently. Depending on whether school is in session or not, various area children stay here at different times. Gloria, Anita’s sister and Carmy, another young girl currently reside at the House/Farm. Ronald and Paul, both 9 years old, stay when school is out but visit regularly.

My Room

Roof in my Room

Each day I feel more immersed in the culture. The House/Farm consists of several adjoining building and is referred to as a compound. Mami and I stay in the front building. My room has 2 single beds with mosquito net plus a small table. The mattresses are cut foam pieces as are the pillows. I use one bed to make piles of all I need for the next 2 weeks. The floors and walls are cement; two mismatched pieces of plastic cover the floor. I can see the roof which is metal with multiple holes that appear like stars in my room at night. I am waiting to see what happens when it rains, covering my computer with a pillow just in case. I should be tested soon since it is rainy season.

Eating Area

Kitchen w Wood Stoves

Dish Storage & Washing Area

Anita and Betty’s rooms are in another section of the compound on either side of the cooking room. There is an open area, partially covered, where we eat. Opposite the front building are the toilets and bathing area. A door separates this area from the rest of the buildings. Inside is an open area containing a sink and small water tank with spigot. 3 small rooms measuring about 3.5 x 5 feet each contain a squatty potty, a make-shift toilet and a room for bathing. I must confess that I prefer using the squatty potty. An interesting method is used to keep the toilets smelling “fresh” and it is totally effective. Banana leaves are dried, put in a metal can and then lit. A wire attaches the can at the bottom and a wood pole at the top. The can is lowered into the hole by the pole which lies across the floor to keep the can secure. The hole is covered so the smoke penetrates thru the area below.

Bathroom Sink

Squatty Potty & Toilet

Toilet Freshener

Clothes Washing Area

There is no water or electricity in the village. Some farms have wells. Villagers obtain their water from these wells in exchange for work or food. Our water source is a large tank which is filled with well water carried in buckets from the Go Farm. Rain water is also collected for various uses. Solar lamps are charged during the day and used at night. A generator runs from 7:30-10pm providing light for eating and recharging phones and other electronics. I use my computer during the day until the battery dies then I charge it every night.

Shower

Taking a shower is quite the experience. 2 buckets with lids contain cold and hot water (heated on the wood stove). A plastic tub is used to mix the water to the desired temperature and a cup is provided for pouring the water. Once wet, you soap up. I like to dump what is left in the tub as it feels great to have a dousing of hot water. The room has a drain and a squeegee which is used to move the excess water to the drain.

Everything is kept immaculately clean. People are always sweeping the dust; cement floors are mopped down with rags at least once a day. I have seen no bugs or ants!

We had a very heavy rain late today and much to my surprise my room does not leak. The rains bring a damp coolness that is quite chilly. I wear a sweater in the evening and sometimes my down vest. I would guess the temperatures range from low 60’s into the 70’s.

Ronald & Paul Making Puzzles

I spent much of my day with Gloria, Ronald and Paul. I taught them Bingo and Stick Man (my name for Hang Man which is an unnecessarily violent name for a children’s game). We also made puzzles out of cardboard using pictures from old newspapers. The kids taught me a few of their favorite games and the day passed quickly. It was also decided that “Bingo” would make a great name for the kitten.

The kids return to school tomorrow. Paul is in Primary 3 and had an exercise book he was to complete during his break. Most of it was completed and we spent time going thru the questions. I had trouble understanding some of the questions because the grammar was so poor that the questions made no sense. Other questions required drawings. We did not have a pencil and Paul explained that if drawings must always be in pencil or he would be hit with a stick. He also said the stick is used if students do not complete assignments or are late to school. I jumped on this teaching moment and we discussed school discipline. I told him about the US laws against corporal punishment. Another question I found paradoxical and raised my ire was, “What weapons are used to keep peace and security?” Answers Paul gave included guns, sticks, bombs and tear gas.

Monday, Sept 3

View on Morning Run

Banana Vendor on Way to Market
Too Steep to Ride

I went on my first run since the half marathon today. The dirt roads, although uneven, bumpy and rocky are better than the running at Memorial field in Soweto. The roads are also hilly with gradual ups and downs which I like. Another bonus is the lack of dust since it is the rainy season. As expected, I am constantly greeted with shouts of “muzungu” from the local children. The moms also call their children to come look and everyone always has a good laugh. I am guessing they wonder why we exercise when their whole existence as farmers is so physical. Everyone walks, bicycles or rides a motorcycle. An occasional truck will be seen hauling people or supplies; there are no cars.

Greens w Nut Sauce, Ugali, Pumpkin

We had Cassava for lunch today. I knew it was a popular traditional dish in Tz but had not tried it. It was cooked with tomatoes and is similar in taste to a baked potato. We also had greens which I love. The food here is excellent. One thing I definitely appreciate is that they boil or steam most of their food and use very little oil, unlike in Tanzania. I have noticed some positive differences in how good I feel. Except for grains, everything we eat is organically grown here.Traditional to Uganda is Matoke, which are green bananas, steamed in banana leaves. Other vegetable like Cassava or sweet potatoes are also steamed in banana leaves. Matoke, Cassava or Ugali is served at all lunch and dinner meals. Greens are picked fresh daily and cooked in a small amount of water. Ground nuts are another favorite of mine. Several varieties exist and they are roasted or made into a sauce for greens or Matoke. Chapati is another traditional food but because it is made with flour we do not have it very often. Popcorn is popular and we have it several times. They also have little fish like in Tz. I politely declined and am now warned when it is part of our meal. It is probably the only food I haven’t liked.

As seems typical in East African countries, lunch and dinner are served late. Meals here are even later than in Tz. I am guessing that this is because of all the farm work that needs to be done. Although the day starts between 5:30 and 6:00am, the workers do not eat breakfast until 10, lunch is served around 2, and dinner is anytime between 8 and 9:30pm.

Mami at Knitting Machine

Ime at Knitting Machine

In February of this year, two knitting machines were donated. Mami and Ime, one of the tailoring teachers, were trained and can make a sweater in one day. Mami and I had purchased yarn when in town on Saturday so today they made me a sweater.

I am not sure why, but neither Gloria nor Paul went to school today. The three of us spent a good part of the afternoon on a mat outside finishing Paul’s exercise book. One question asking for 3 examples of child abuse prompted further discussion about hitting. Paul had written “denying children food” and “giving children alcohol”. He needed one more example. I referred him back to our first conversation on using a stick on children and told him examples of child abuse. He agreed that hitting a child is abuse and wrote it as his 3^rd answer. I was a bit nervous about the teacher’s reaction to this but it did not become an issue. In another section, the assignment was to take two sentences, and use the word “because” to form one sentence. The sentences: “He was slapped. He didn’t wash the cups.” led me to share one of my favorite sayings, “Hands are for holding, not for hitting”.

Tuesday, Sept 4

The day started out very noisily around 5:30am with roosters crowing, pigs squealing for food, cows mooing. One of the small children cried non-stop for what seemed like several hours. The 3 little ones are usually very well-behaved. Parenting is shared by all. Mats are laid out for the children and they accompany Anita or Gloria many times as they are working outside. Both moms openly breastfeed their young ones.  Maria (the 3 year old) is involved in many of the chores, from clearing dishes to digging with a hoe.

The kids have coughs and runny noses. Mami will buy some medicine when she goes to town today.  I feel badly that I do not hold them. I am just not interested in any more illnesses. In addition, diapers are not used on the two younger children. If they soil their clothes the children are washed off, clothes changed and the area wiped clean. I think I know what would happen the first time I had one of them on my lap!

I helped Anita and Betty prepare green bananas for Matoke.  We first cut down a banana tree and chopped off the bunch of bananas. The tree is later cut up and used as feed for the cows. The leaves are cut off and have multiple uses. We placed leaves across our laps before peeling the bananas because the bananas ooze a sticky sap that is close to impossible to get out of clothing. (We have to use oil, steel wool and soap to get it off our hands.) A large basket is lined with banana leaves and the peeled bananas placed on top. When we have enough bananas, more leaves are placed on top and tucked into the basket. The bundle is then tightly tied with dried banana leaves.  The bundle is carried to the kitchen where a large pot is lined with stalks from the banana leaves. Water is added and then the bundle is steamed for about an hour. The stove is brick and fed by wood. After cooking, the bananas are mashed and served with their leaves as a cover.

Anita & Betty
Cutting down Banana Tree

Peeling Bananas w Anita
(Wearing My New Sweater)

All Peeled

Bananas Peeled and Wrapped in Banana Leaves
Ready for Cooking

The kids all went to school today. Gloria is 11 and in Primary 5. She is excited that I offered to help her in the evenings with homework. She commented to me that she told her teacher that I said hitting was not ok. The teacher responded that as long as the kids followed the rules they would not be hit. I was nervous that the teacher may have responded differently but I am sure Gloria was respectful. I was also very proud of her for being assertive. After I returned to Kampala I saw a news story about a group advocating for the elimination of caning in schools and the addition of counseling. The nightly news includes a question for viewers’ responses on a timely topic. One evening the question had to do with how many years a person charged with child abuse should spend in prison. Progress can be a beautiful thing, especially when it comes to human rights.

Carmy, Hilaria, Maria, Vina, Gloria & Me

Me, Gloria & Paul

Uganda - The Farm Projects

Aug 29 – Sept 1

While in Tanzania, staff from Groundwork Opportunities (http://www.groundworkopportunities.org) stayed at Ibrah’s for a few days.  They were going to Uganda to visit a project they support - an organic farm in a rural, remote village in the southeast part of the country. David, the volunteer from New Zealand, initially piqued my interest as he was to volunteer on the farm after being in Tanzania. I had a 3 week window of time to fill and arranged with Groundwork to spend it in Uganda. So here I am.

There are two farms. I will refer to the farm supported by Groundwork Opportunities (GO) as the GO Farm. It is approximately 40 acres with housing for 8 men who work the farm. About a mile from the Go Farm is the main house which is also a farm. I will call this the House/Farm. Hopefully this will be clear. Most of my time will be spent at the House/Farm.

Wednesday, Aug 29

I arrived at Entebbe Airport in Uganda and was warmly welcomed by Peter, founder of the Go Farm Program. I immediately felt good about the decision I made. I could see Lake Victoria as the plane landed and again on our drive form the airport. Lake Victoria is Africa’s largest lake by area (26,600 sq miles) and the world’s 2^nd largest freshwater lake (Lake Superior is 1^st).

Peter resides about an hour and a half from Entebbe on the outskirts of Kampala, the capital city (population: 1.6 million). The driving and congestion gets worse with each large city I visit. I thought Nairobi was insane. It is obvious that the expansion and maintenance of roads has not kept up with the population growth in Kampala. The motorcycle drivers are totally fearless and make the ones in Moshi appear safe. Our travel time was more a result of traffic than actual distance.

Front Yard

Peter and his family live in a lovely, spacious home. The lot is quite large with one section grassed and landscaped. Other areas contain raised gardens and chicken coops. Dinner was waiting when we arrived and I was introduced to the family. Peter’s wife, Cici, is a bank regional manager. They have 2 very sociable and well-behaved children, Daniella (age 3 ½) and Gabriella (2yo in October). As is typical of Africans, other people live in the house and many come and go. Peter also sponsors 8 area children whose families are very poor. The kids help out at the house and Peter provides meals for them and pays their school fees. The kids also come to the house for homework help and tutoring when needed. 

Peter, Gabby & Me

Thursday, Aug 30

Peter left early this morning to pick up Meschak from the bus stand. Meschak runs a GO-sponsored farm project in Rwanda and is interested in adding a pig project similar to Peter’s. Since Meschak is only here through the weekend, we will leave tomorrow (Friday) for the Go Farm. Meschak will return to Rwanda on Saturday. Peter leaves for the US on the 6th so will return to Kampala on Sunday to prepare for the trip. He is presenting at a conference at a pure foods conference in California and meeting with GO staff. Last year’s conference and expo brought in 10,000 people http://www.theheirloomexpo.com/. 

I spent the morning drawing pictures with Daniella. My drawing skills are pretty much on par with a 3 year old so we got along just fine. Peter and Meschak returned before lunch. Meschak’s English is pretty rough but he speaks Swahili. There were actually a few times when he didn’t understand an English word and I translated for him in Swahili! We ate lunch then headed to Kampala to see the city, run errands and prepare for the trip tomorrow. Traffic was bumper-to-bumper no matter the time of day or road we were on. Our errands took the better part of the afternoon so we picked up Cici from work and headed home. I have yet to decide whose driving is worse, Nairobi or Kampala drivers.

Since we are close to Lake Victoria, fish is abundant. We ate Tilapia for dinner and I was reminded how much I miss good fish.

Friday, Aug 31

Both farms are located in Kaliviso village just outside Masaka, about a 3-4 hour drive from Kampala. Peter and I picked up Mami (Peter’s aunt) and more supplies. Mami runs the House/Farm where we will stay. As her things were being loaded in the jeep, I was asked if I was allergic to cats. I said no which was the right answer because a box with a 3 month old kitten traveled with us. Mami said we would need to come up with a name for her.

For lunch we stopped by the roadside at a food vendor market. I tried roasted sweet bananas. It is a type of green banana (plantain) but with a mildly sweet taste. There are so many varieties of bananas here. The green bananas are a vegetable similar to potatoes. The yellow ones are fruits and sweet like ours. My favorite is the very small yellow sweet bananas which I wish we had in the US. The others ate roasted chicken on a stick. We also stopped along the road and bought a large smoked fish which would be our dinner. We had to be careful where we placed it in the jeep because the kitten had already escaped her box several times.

Peter & Adrian in Crop Field

We first stopped at the House/Farm to unload everything before heading over to the GO Farm about a mile away. Both farms are comprised of grazing land for the animals which include cows, goats and pigs. Much of the land is covered with beautiful lush green forests of banana trees, and bountiful fruits and vegetables, some I have never heard of or tasted before. Rolling hills in the distance add to the natural splendor and beauty of this area. If there was a Garden of Eden this is surely what it would have looked like.

Peter bought the land for the Go Farm in 2005 and started the first project in 2007. What he has accomplished in so few years is mind-boggling. His goal to create a model farm using sustainable methodologies of farming is a true work of genius.

Goats Grazing

Peter started his first project in 2007 with 150 goats. By 2009 he had 580 goats. Over 500 farmers each received one pregnant goat. Criteria to receive a goat included mandatory training, construction of a goat house, and planting enough feed for the animals. A pregnant goat will typically give birth to 2-3 kids. After the goats gave birth, each farmer returned one baby/kid to the Go Farm. This project has been very successful and Peter designed a Pig Project in the same way. There are currently 15 pregnant pigs, 2 males and 84 babies.

Mama & Piglets

Pig barns on Left,
Cow barns on Right

I got very carried away taking pig pictures

The Pig Pens are raised for cleanliness

The training that is required for eligibility in these projects is quite interesting. Not only does it include business and farming skills but also education on HIV/AIDS and human rights issues such as domestic violence. Apparently the first AIDS case discovered in Uganda was in the district where the farms are located. Peter feels strongly that people must be healthy in body and mind to be successful. The farmers and their families must know how to prevent or care for themselves if they are HIV positive. Their families also need to work together and be supportive of each other.

Peter received funding from GO in 2010 to add 2 milling machines. They are available for use by area farmers who bring their wheat, corn, millet, cassava and other grains.

A separate building houses a tailoring project for single mothers and widows. In February, Mami and Ime, one of the teachers, learned how to knit sweaters. Two knitting machines were donated and are housed at the House/Farm. In addition, the tailoring women also have a dance and drumming group.

Bee Hives

A Bee Project was launched this year. There is a large area set up with many hives. Peter provides training to farmers about beekeeping so they can start their own projects. Eventually the GO Farm will process the honey for sale.

Bio Gas Line to Cook Stove

Nothing goes to waste here. In addition to the projects, the farm supports composting and has built a well and irrigation system. I know nothing about Bio-Gas but Peter has started a project using cow and pig manure to make fuel. This will eventually be used for lighting and cooking as well as fertilizer. We had a demonstration of its use with a small cook stove. 

Area Children Collecting Water
for their families from the Well.

Future plans include a Seed Bank Project. For example, 5kg of bean seeds would be given to a farmer. After harvesting the beans, 10kgs of seeds would be returned to the GO Farm. Peter explained that 300-500kgs of beans would be a typical yield from the initial 5kg of seeds.

This is how the water is hauled home.
The bike is bigger than the child and the water
 jugs probably weigh more than he does

The most impressive undertaking of the Seed Bank Project involves the planting of mango (2010) and orange (2011) orchards. 10,000 families will receive 10 seedlings each as soon as the trees reach maturity. Peter is a passionate man whose goal in this project is to positively impact the environment by combatting climate change through planting and increasing the number of trees. In all that he does, Peter’s focus is on the environment and income generation. I have no doubt that he will be successful in all his endeavors. I only wish I had more time to learn from him which just gives me another reason to return!

Here is a link to GO with a video of Peter talking about some of his projects: http://www.groundworkopportunities.org/ideas/pig-farms/

We ended our day at the House/Farm with a dinner of the smoked fish and vegetables. The fish was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. People and kids were in and out. There was a lot of conversation and laughter. Unfortunately, I understood nothing that was being said. Peter and Mami’s English is very good and sometimes Peter would explain what was being said. Mostly, I was content to just sit and observe knowing I was going to love it here.

Saturday, Sept 1

Peter, Mami, Meschak and I left for a day in Masaka. We dropped Meschak at the bus stand and said our goodbyes. He invited me to Rwanda when I return to Africa. My priority for the day was to go to a clinic. Peter took me to Byansi Clinic. He knew one of the nurses so I was left in good hands as he had many errands to run and clinic visits typically take an hour or two. 

E. Hystolytica - If I had known they
were this cute I would have named them.

I immediately liked Solomon, the doctor. He was quite humorous and began our visit with a Google search to show me a picture of my parasites, pointing out how each one looked like the face of an old man. He also was curious as to why I chose to come to Africa and my impressions of the people. He expressed his displeasure at the number of antibiotics I had been taking. My test for parasites was negative. He suggested that my current symptoms were probably more a result of the meds than anything else. He gave me Vitamin A capsules and a powder to mix with water which would keep me hydrated. Needless to say, I was relieved. Total cost – $5.36 plus $.60 for a 1.5 liter bottle of water I bought at the market across the street.

After meeting up with Peter and Mami, we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. I had tilapia, steamed pumpkin and rice. Besides being delicious with large portions, the total cost for all three meals and drinks was $7.00. I am going to have a difficult time returning to restaurants in the US where I will be lucky to get one meal for $7.00!

Peter and I spent some time in the evening talking about the GO Farm and his interest in a micro-loan project. He is looking into funding and would like a business plan written. I will work on this while I am here using the plan that we have for TAFCOM.

Peter shared some of his background, explaining that farming is in his blood. Raised in rural Masaka, his parents were farmers. He was fortunate in that his family always had food. When there was a famine in 1985, food was scarce but they still ate each day. According to Peter, his father was an outspoken advocate for justice. In 1998 he was murdered as a result of his political views. Peter was raised and is still a strong Catholic. He considered being a priest but felt a stronger draw to focus on helping people as his priority mission. He was not sure he could realize his dreams through the priesthood.

View from Road in Front of House

Fortunately we all go to bed early, which I appreciate, because the roosters start their noise making before dawn and as always, they are not far from my window! 

Victoria Falls - The Smoke that Thunders

August 23 – August 29

I knew Lake Victoria was located in the NW corner of Tanzania bordering Uganda and Kenya. I planned my trip to Victoria Falls assuming it was near the lake and only a short bus trip from Kenya. My plans included running the half marathon plus a few leisurely days in Vic Falls and then another bus into Uganda. Much to my dismay I learned Vic Falls is south of Tanzania in southern Africa. Oops. I now had no choice but to book flights from Nairobi, Kenya to Vic Falls and then from Vic Falls to Entebbe, Uganda. In addition, my flights to and from Vic Falls involved an overnight (22 hour layover) stay in Johannesburg, South Africa, which was another unplanned expense for hotels. This was a costly lesson in Geography!

Thursday Aug 23

Departing the plane in Victoria Falls, I was immediately hit by the heat. Tanzania had been fairly cool as was Kenya. Daytime temperatures in Victoria Falls are averaging in the high 80’s. It also feels more humid. I prefer the heat but wondered how it would be for race day.

A pre-arranged shuttle transported me to the Victoria Falls Backpacker where I would be spending the next 5 days. Vic Falls Backpacker is rustic and homey; perfectly suited for me. It was like being in a campsite but I had a room and bed. Communal showers and toilets were very clean and we had hot water most of the time.A pool, campfire, and sitting areas filled the open spaces. Our eating area consisted of several picnic tables under a shelter with a refrigerator, stove, and microwavefor the guests to use. The staff was friendly and always accessible.

I was assigned to the Elephant room which contained 5 closely situated beds. 4 additional people would be arriving the next night. Sharing a cramped room with 4 strangers was not my idea of a peaceful sleeping arrangement. Another room was available but the key had been lost. Personally, I would rather stay in an unlocked room than spend 4 nights with 4 strangers in very close quarters. Safes were available for valuables so I mentioned my preference to Lia, one of the staff. She was ok with me moving. Fortunately they were able to get a locksmith out the next day and so I will now reside in the Giraffe Room.

Baboon Mom and Baby

When I asked about running on the roads I was told to turn left out of the drive because if I went right it was likely I might run into elephants or buffalo. I thought it wise to go left towards town where I did see wart hogs and baboons randomly roaming the roads. The Backpacker is about a 15 minute walk to the town of Victoria Falls. It is a tourist’s town with a (population 35,000) but with a relaxed, laid back atmosphere.

Warthogs

Mandy was the first person I met at the Backpacker. She will be running the full marathon. Mandy is 26, working as a Physical education teacher for the Peace Corps in Mozambique. She completes her 2 year placement in November.

Friday Aug 24

I slept great last night and there were no roosters! It was a leisurely day which included a run, a walk into town to purchase food for the next few days, and registering for the half marathon. The Backpacker is starting to fill up. We met 6 men and 1 woman from Zambia who are here for the Marathon. One of the men came in 5^th in the Kili Marathon in February. Their coach will join them for the race.

Mandy asked if I wanted to go into town to an outdoor concert. She was antsy for some social life as her Peace Corps placement is an isolated area in Mozambique. The concert featured local pop and traditional singers and dancers. Mandy had gone white water rafting the day before and we met one of her guides and his friends. It is common to be asked “Where are you from?” One of the locals introduced himself and jokingly said, “I am from China”.He turned out to be a great guy and we hung out with him several more evenings. Later in the evening fireworks lit the sky, followed by a water spray that was supposed to mimic the Falls. However, the water soaked the stage and blew out the sound system ending the evening’s festivities.

Saturday, Aug 25

Mandy and I packed a lunch and spent the day at Victoria Falls National Park. Vic Falls is classified as one of the 7 natural wonders of the world and exceeded my expectations of its natural beauty. While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, it is reported to be the largest. It is over 5,600 feet wide with a height of 354 feet, forming the largest sheet of falling water in the world. 

Rainbow

If you look closely in the center
you can see a bungee jumper (NOT me)

 

 We treated ourselves to chocolate milkshakes at the park. For dinner we decided to get our carb load for the marathon and ate pasta in town.

That evening a number of guests gathered around the campfire. The group included ayoung man from England, 2 families from Namibia, and a gentleman from Italy. Conversation was lively and interesting. I often think that people from other countries know more about our politics than we do. It is fascinating to hear how others view the US. Our health care system and the upcoming presidential election are hot topics as well as the world economy.

Every person I have met has asked “What are you thinking?” when referencing the stalemate on universal health care. I was told that we are the only Western developed country without this type of health care(fact check, anyone?). One man remarked, “It is not socialism, it is a human right.” In terms of the election all were supporters of Obama but think it will be a close election. An interesting comment by the Italian was that even the more conservative political groups in Europe are closer in philosophy to the Democrats than the Republicans. (I am just reporting content not personal opinion, although I shared my views as objectively as possible!)Another discussion topic was concern over China’s emerging role in the world.China is a major player in many African countries.

Sunday, August 26

Mandy and I headed for the Marathon around 6:00 am. The number of runners was much smaller than I expected, maybe 500 people total.I had not trained well and knew my time would be pathetically slow. Mandy and I really only cared about finishing and getting a shirt.

The course was quiet and picturesque. We ran over the bridge which overlooks part of the Falls. I ran most of the race alone. I thought that might make it mentally tougher but the scenery was so pleasant that I rather enjoyed the solitude of nature on both sides of me. I passed a sign that said “Elephant Crossing”. I did see baboons but they are as plentiful as tourists.

I was not physically prepared and knew that I would walk a large portion of the course. The first 8-9 miles went ok. Water stops were plentiful with wet sponges and sprinklers available. The day was hot reaching 90 degrees. I only had to take one potty break in the bush. Running through an area of cabins I found a structure that looked like an outhouse. It wasn’t, but did provide me protection from passersby! I could hear “Chop My Money” playing at the nearby water stop. (This was a great Tz song that we all loved). I walked much of the last 4 miles which was quite hilly and spent the last mile with a man from England. I finally finished in an embarrassing 3 hours and 15 minutes. I had splurged and bought a dark chocolate bar the day before. I had frozen it so that by the time I finished the race it was melting in my mouth!

It turned out that the sponsor for the half marathon was a different company than the sponsor for the full marathon.  My shirt only had a Zambezi Beer Logo on it and no print indicating participation in a race. This was not acceptable!! I met some staff from the company sponsoring the full marathon and they kindly gave me a shirt. I also met a couple from Pennsylvania who had been biking through Southern Africa. They arrived in Vic Falls 2 days ago unaware of the marathon. The woman decided to run the half and got 4^th place. So much for training! I hung out with the Zambia racers and met their coach. He was from the US and had run for Dartmouth College. Turns out he raced against Neal and knew his reputation as a runner. Can the world get any smaller??

Mandy, me & Zambia Runners

Mandy finished the full in a little over 5 ½ hours. The thought of walking even a mere 15 minutes to Backpacker’s sounded grueling. Fortunately we ran into Arnold, one of the owners of Vic Falls Backpacker, and he gave us a ride home.The rest of the day we hung out relaxing and cooling our legs in the pool.

A  Marathon evening after-party was hosted by an area boat club. Mandy and I stopped by and tried Zambezi beer, a locally made beer and sponsor of the half. (Since I had finished my parasite meds I could finally drink.) We sat by the dock watching the sunset over the lake and played with a lively 6 year old. We then returned to town and as usual ran into China and another of his friends, Moses, who was possibly as short as me. We all danced and then sat for a beer.  The next thing I know,  Moses is sitting rather close to me and then proceeds to put his arm around me. I ask his age and learn he is 25. I share that is the age of my daughter. Mandy sees what is going on and we all start talking about our ages and how I am old enough to be his mother. He leans over and whispers in my ear, Love is blind. OMG, Only here could I be hit on by a 25 year old!!

Monday, August 27

Siblings

I was picked up at 6:30 am by a bus that took about 20 of us to the Walk with the Lions. The park is a research, rehab and release center for lions with a focus on conservation education. At the park we were split into two groups. Our group consisted of a couple from Chicago, a mother and daughter from LA, a woman from England and 5 people from France. Several guides, one with a gun and a belt full of bullets, accompanied us. “Just in case,” they told us! 

Five minutes into our walk we encountered two lions, a brother and sister, aged 13 months. The guides were very professional and the rules understandably strict. We were told how to approach the lions, and where and how to crouch to pet them. We all carried sticks which were supposed to be used if the lion tried to “playfully” jump on us. Fortunately no one had to use their stick – hard to imagine how effective it would have been.

Just taking a Leisurely Stroll

We spent an amazing hour interacting with the lions. Of the many tourist adventures I could have chosen I am so glad I decided on the Walk with the Lions. Being in the presence of these remarkably powerful beasts produces a humbling respect for all animals and nature.

It just doesn't get any better than this!

Eating Elephant poop - Very Nutritious

Having too much FUN!

 

After returning home I went to the area health clinic to be retested for parasites. The doctor advised me that Livingstone, Zambia was the closest clinic with a lab. Because Zimbabwe is not allowed to carry cultures across the border, I would have to go there for testing. This would be a 60 mile trip and involve another Visa. Since I was leaving tomorrow this was not possible. I explained my current symptoms. The doctor and nurse consulted, deciding to give me additional meds as they thought I might still have parasites. I was advised to get tested as soon as possible. I was given an injection of an antibiotic plus additional antibiotics in pill form. I never envisioned learning about health care in developing countries through first-hand experiences. I have been to more doctors in the last 3 months than I have in the last 5 years in the US.

Later in the day Mandy and I walked to the outskirts of town to a local market which was similar to the Second Hand market in Soweto. We were the only mzungu and we both remarked how we felt we were back in Africa again. Tourist towns often lack the true local flavor of a culture. I prefer to be among the locals when I have the choice.

We treated ourselves to ice cream before heading home. Instead of a drive-thru, the ice cream store had a walk-thru with 4 steps up to a window and then 4 steps down. It reminded me of an Escher drawing until I realized its purpose.

Dan & Jen arrived at Backpackers yesterday who are also staying at Backpackers. They joined Mandy and I for my last night in Vic Falls. Shoestring Backpackers was our watering hole for the night.  I initially planned to stay there but they were booked. It was a great place to sit out under the stars and enjoy a drink but I am glad I did not stay there. Shoestring caters to a younger, party crowd with a bar open all day and music playing every nite into the early morning hours.

Dan & Jen are from San Francisco and traveling thru Southern Africa. We watched videos of them in an enclosed tank encircled by sharks in the ocean off the coast of South Africa. Tomorrow they are going to the Zambia side of Victoria Falls, where one can lay in designated areas of water at the edge of the Falls.  I really wanted to do this but the cost was prohibitive and I would also have to pay for a Zambian visa.

I discovered that Dan‘s parents came to the US from Vietnam in the 70’s after the fall of Saigon. Because of his father’s involvement in military intelligence, it is likely his father would have been killed if he stayed in Vietnam. I shared my experiences working at Ft Chaffee, Arkansas in the 1975 when the first groups of Vietnamese were airlifted to the states and my subsequent job directing a state refugee health program for incoming refugees.

Tuesday, August 28

Victoria Falls was beautiful and relaxing. I met a lot of great people and could return there in a heartbeat. It was well worth the geography lesson. I will miss Mandy. We both remarked that being together made our visit to Vic Falls even better than expected. She has family in Indiana; so we will hopefully plan a visit. In the meantime, there is always Facebook.

I am off to Uganda with another layover in Johannesburg. Waiting in line at the Vic Falls airport I saw the couple I met at the marathon who were from PA as well as the Chicago couple from the Walk with the Lions.

As previously informed, there was a tourist Info desk at the Johannesburg airport. I found a guesthouse for much less than my first stay and airport shuttles were included in the price this time.

Wednesday, August 29

Back to the airport for my flight to Uganda. I have no idea what to expect in Uganda. I am looking forward to something completely different and have a feeling I won’t be disappointed.