Weeks 22 & 23 - On the Road to Recovery

July 16-July 25

July 17- I felt sick today with some nausea and stomach cramps. Not being a huge fan of drugs or going to the doctor (no matter what country I am in) I took some Echinacea and drank ginger tea. I progressively got worse and will not disgust you with graphic details. However, I cannot remember being sick like this in years. I finally went to the Jaffery Medical Center In Moshi on Friday.

Jaffery Medical Services

I have found that it is always best to enter a situation or new experience with little or no expectations. Things always turn out better that way. My blood pressure was a bit lower than normal. The nurse appeared concerned and recommended drinking coffee for 4 days and then rechecking it. I like coffee; but the thought of adding coffee to stomach cramps sounded disastrous. I knew they would check for malaria and thought it would be a pin prick until I saw the needle. I have small veins and typically it takes several tries to hit the vein. The nurse nailed it on the first try. I was truly impressed and told her so. They ran a malaria and blood test. I also had to provide a urine and stool sample. I was given 2 containers and sent outside to the back of the building where the “outhouse” was located. No surprise, it was a squatty potty.

The good news is that I was negative for malaria and parasites. My diagnosis was a bacterial infection and urinary tract infection (which surprised me because I had no symptoms). I was given an antibiotic and pain medicine/anti-inflammatory. I think the antibiotic made me sicker than the infection. The stomach cramps slowly subsided but the nausea got worse. Molly had some anti-nausea medicine which I took on Saturday and threw up 30 minutes later. I have started feeling better since then and am back on the road to recovery. It is a bit scary getting sick in a foreign country. The health center I went to was recommended by Nie and Ibrah. Considering what I have seen and know about health care here I was resistant to go at first but knew by Friday that I really had no choice. I was well taken care of and the staff were kind and professional. Total cost in US equivalency = $3.18 to register as a new patient; $7.30 for all the tests; and $5.10 for the meds.

Veronica w Her New Glasses

July 20 - Since I spent most of this week home being sick I only worked with TAFCOM on Friday. I needed to get away from my 4 yellow walls. I wanted to visit Mwamini and Veronica. I promised Veronica that I would give her a pair of reading glasses. (I brought an extra pair.) She beams when we visit and I always get a hug. We took pictures and I will be making a copy for her. She wants a picture of the two of us together to remember me by. Veronica’s faith has always fascinated me. I discovered on this visit that she was raised in a strong Catholic family. Religion has always been important; she does not know how she could have survived her life without it. Veronica always mentions God or Jesus in conversation, as a blessing or when she thanks us for visiting and bringing things for her. Often times she holds my hands, speaking softly; I can almost feel what she is saying. More often than not I am brought to tears, despite the fact we speak two different languages.

Another emotion that is difficult to express is how loved and protected I feel here. Suffice it to say that I cannot fathom the thought of not returning here. This place feeds my soul.

Molly left to climb Kili on Saturday with Mussa as her guide. He was so concerned when he found out I was sick that he has called me twice from the mountain to see how I am. Of course, I also get to talk to Molly and hear how she is doing. Two volunteers just finished their climb and are spending several days recuperating here. I have been able to share some of their stories and recommendations with Molly. I have no doubt she will make it to the top. A close friendship has developed in a very short time.

The relationships that develop between volunteers are unique. An instant bond forms because we are in a foreign country and our intentions are fundamentally the same. Beyond that, the awareness that our time together is limited, results in more intellectual and stimulating conversation. I love hearing the stories and have been lucky to meet such interesting people. We exchange email addresses and invite each other to visit.

Two young men (age 26) visited recently for a few days. Mike and Amul have been friends since they were 11 and went to the same university in England. Amul’s parents were born in Africa; he was raised in Luxemburg and England. He currently teaches math to Form 4 Secondary (senior high school) students in Kenya.

Amul owns a car and went to visit friends in Arusha. While there he needed gas for the return trip. His credit card did not work at the ATM. Instead, he exchanged his Kenya currency, filled the car with gas and had 1000 Tsh remaining. Heading back to Moshi, he was stopped for speeding. The officer told him to pay 30,000Tsh. Police will collect the fee at the time of ticketing and issue a receipt. If one does not have enough money the officer can be bribed with less and the funds pocketed. Amul was grateful to have filled the gas tank before meeting the officer. If he paid the fine, there would not have been enough money for gas to return to Moshi. He showed the officer that he had no money and was let go.

Mike volunteered here 6 years ago when he met Ibrah. They remained friends and enjoyed their reunion. During his volunteer stay in 2006, Mike met a young man, Pius, and sponsored his education through Secondary school. They spent Saturday together and we all attended a local soccer tournament together.  Mike was pleased with how Pius is doing; but sadly, as is the case with so many, after completing his first year at university, Pius was unable to return because of finances. His family struggles; they have no electricity and eat only 2 meals a day. Some years back his father left causing Pius to miss school to help with his younger siblings. Mike plans to fundraise when he returns to England to help Pius and his family.

It is easy for volunteers to fall in love with a child or family, committing to help financially. Unfortunately, many drop their support after a few years unable to follow through with their commitment. Talking to Mike was refreshing because he is deeply committed to this family. It is not an easy decision for someone who wants to help financially. The dilemma arises in whether it is better to help one family or one person, or to do something that benefits a larger number. It becomes a personal decision that can be different for each person. For me, I want to look at the long term impact. Is it better to buy school books for a classroom or pay school fees for one child? There is no crystal ball to tell me if that child will be successful or if that school book will motivate even one child to set a higher goal for themself.

I consider Mwamini, for example. She has captured my heart. We assisted her so she could move towards becoming self-sufficient. With Rose’s illness and death, she must again start over. We visited Mwamini on Friday. She has malaria and no funds for medicine. Fortunately, her oldest son and daughter returned home to help. The son lived on the streets because he felt life was too difficult at home. He actually showed up at Nie’s house. Never shying away from addressing the topic of responsibility, Nie had a heart-to-heart with him about his family. He is now living at home. Mwamini’s daughter is also coming over every day to help. I am grateful for the donations I have received recently and we will use a portion to get Mwamini back on her feet.

July 21 - Ramadan begins today. It is the Muslim month of fasting; a time of self-discipline, self-control and sacrifice. Muslims refrain from eating or drinking from dawn until sunset. According to Islam, the rewards of fasting are many, but in this month, they are believed to be multiplied. The act of fasting is believed to cleanse the soul and redirect the heart away from the negatives of the world. Ramadan is a time of spiritual reflection and worship. Muslims spend this month slowing down from worldly matters and focusing on self-reformation, spiritual cleansing and enlightenment. They are establishing a link between themselves and God through prayer, kindness, and helping others.

A strong emphasis is placed on empathy for those who are less fortunate. Acts of generosity and giving are encouraged. It is through fasting that one can feel the plight of the poor who go without food as part of their daily life. An offering of gratitude for what one has also plays an important role.

The observation of Ramadan is begun following the start of puberty. Those who are elderly, chronically ill or pregnant are exempt from fasting but, if able, must feed the poor in place of their missed fasting.

Interestingly there have been several medical studies on the effects of fasting. A team of cardiologists in the UAE found that, for people observing Ramadan, there was a positive effect on their lipid profile which means there is a reduction of cholesterol in the blood. Another study, carried out on mice, found that the mild stress that neurons are exposed to during fasting (in humans this would be referred to as mental focus) increases the level of brain-derived neurotrophic factor. This factor causes the body to produce more brain cells, thus improving brain function.

From top left - Fried Eggplant,
Noodles w/ Tomato Sauce & Veggies,
Greens w/ Onions,
Avocado & Small Bananas

I enjoy and appreciate food way too much and not eating makes me cranky. I was talking with the young women who just finished climbing Kili about Ramadan and we agreed that fasting is a way to understand hunger. One remarked that she might want to fast periodically when she has a family to teach her children about hunger in the world. I recalled that being raised Catholic, we always gave up something for Lent. The hardest thing I remember was giving up TV as a young child. I had to laugh because I no longer own a TV and rarely watch it when I do have access.  Also, as kids, it was more about “could you do it?” than the spirit of sacrifice in order to understand others who are less fortunate.

July 24 – I am spending most of the week at home still a bit queasy but with time to clean up loose ends for TAFCOM. Today, however, was our last visit with Victoria, the little girl with special needs in Boma.  Nie purchased a six month supply of injection medication so that Regina, her mom, can take Victoria to the doctor by herself from now on. Nie and I found her in a tiny room in the back of the building. The landlord plans to raise the rent so she and her 5 children moved to the back of the building until she can move elsewhere. Regina is looking for housing and her business is faltering. In May, Victoria had fallen and was hospitalized. In June, her husband and son, who live in Arusha, both came down with malaria and typhoid fever at the same time. Regina took the two older children out of school and the family of 6 traveled to Arusha to nurse them back to health. Victoria’s developmental progress has been amazing. When Nie first met her 6 months ago she could neither walk nor talk. Except for being extremely thin, she appears fairly normal for a 10 year old. She is walking talking and playing outside by herself. I knew that eventually her development would advance to the point that when she saw Nie it would trigger her memory. This time she associated Nie with the injections. While talking with her mom, Regina was weepy and at one point tried to smack Nie. We hid the bag of meds and needles which seemed to calm her down. Nie is hopeful that Victoria will soon be able to take tablets but is also concerned because she will require a daily dose. Nie noted that the vitamins we bought her several months ago were still unfinished.

July 25 - Molly and Mussa completed their climb today. They allotted 6 days but accomplished the climb in 5. They have called me every day of their climb. It is mind-boggling knowing that cell-phone reception is available on a mountain whose elevation is over 19,000 feet but certainly is a godsend if someone gets ill or hurt. I was not here when Lee Ann climbed but will not forget my reaction when first seeing Kili. We were on the top floor at Kindoroko Hotel, where we stayed a few nights in 2009. The tears began to flow at my first sighting. I was overwhelmed realizing that my daughter reached the top of this majestic natural phenomenon. I understand how Molly’s mom must be feeling since she is not here to celebrate this feat with her daughter. I am living Lee Ann’s climb vicariously through Molly and feel like I have gained another daughter. I am so proud of her. Molly also brought me to tears, especially when she told me she had no doubt I, too, could make it to the top. Bucket List addition: Climb Kili in 2014. 

Molly claims this part
was easier than it looks!

Hiking Scenery

Camping for the Night

Molly & Mussa

Trail w Peak in Background

At the Top

View from Moshi

Week 21 - The rest of the story

July 9 – July 15

June was not a good month with several of TAFCOM’s clients in the hospital and Jonas’ sister hospitalized for malaria. Nie, Jonas, and I all optimistically agreed that July would be better. Obviously this has not been the case.

July 9 - On Monday Jonas shared that their son, Jovin, was diagnosed with pneumonia last week. Jonas’ sister will be released from the hospital in Dar on Tuesday and return to their home to recover. His mother, who is also staying with Jonas and Nie, suffers from multiple ailments and needs someone to watch over her.

Daladala-Rarely have I seen one this new.
But it is common to see people hanging on the outside

Many families where both husband and wife work have a “dada” (sister). She is usually a young girl who lives with the family and helps with cooking, cleaning and child care. The dada that lives with Nie and Jonas currently has the extra burden of watching Jonas’ sister’s 18 month old daughter and attending to Jonas’ mother. In addition, the daladalas (buses) went on strike because the government raised their taxes 200%. This causes major problems for those who must go to the markets daily to buy food to sell. It also meant that Jonas had to come into Moshi to pick me up on the days I worked.

July 10 - Tuesday Jonas picked me up. I asked if today was going to be a better day. He said “No”. Rose had died and Nie hurt her arm. Her blood pressure goes from high to low and it caused her to become unstable and fall.  Moreover, their dada had to leave to care for her sick father. With all this going on Jonas had to make arrangements with his brother in Boma to care for their sister and her daughter. In spite of all this, Jonas spent hours at Mwamini's (Rose's mother) struggling to help them resolve the funeral arrangements. In between his time at Mwamini’s, he transported his sister and her daughter to Boma. It sometimes feels like non-stop crisis intervention.

Backpack

Placemat & Hot Pad

Molly accompanied me on Tuesday to the tailoring center. Molly and I were interviewing the tailoring women about their education and talking to them about making gifts Molly will be giving her family. It was a good diversion from the sadness we were all feeling. We spent time with Edda, one of the teachers, designing some backpacks and looking at some of the samples that had been made for lap top covers and placemats. I was really pleased with their work. 

Nie interpreted for us as we interviewed 6 of the tailoring students. Our questions were similar to those asked of the Karanga Secondary School students. Understandably, 6 people do not qualify as a scientific study. However, their responses revealed a perspective from a poorer segment of the population than Karanga. The traditional role of females and gender inequality also became evident in their answers.

Table Runner

Half of the young women attended pre-school with one not starting until she was 7. The other 3 did not attend primary school until they were 8, 9 and 10 years old. I questioned Nie about this. I understood that if you did not start at age 7, a school did not have to accept you. Nie explained that in the more rural areas, the rules are likely to be more lax.

Lap Top Cover

All 6 of the tailoring students were absent from school for extended periods of time. 4 of them specifically cited the inability to pay school fees and 4 also named housework as their reasons for missing school. One of the young women, and the only girl in the family, performed cooking and cleaning chores with no help from her brothers. Another sold items for income for the family. Lastly, we heard from a young woman who, because of their poverty, attended school without shoes or a uniform. This is another example of different rules in the rural areas. Uniforms and more obviously, shoes are mandatory for all students.

Half the women passed the national exam but unable to continue their education because of the families’ inability to pay school fees. The other 3 who did not pass explained that private school would have been unaffordable.

The answers to the question about family attitudes toward education sadly reveal the lower status of women in this culture. The mothers of two of the young women did not see education as important for girls. Another disclosed that she wanted to go to school but neither of her parents cared about education. An interesting insight into family structure and the changing attitudes toward education came with the statement that it is sometimes harder for the older children to attend school when there are financial struggles. These older siblings will then pressure the parents into educating the younger children. Oftentimes, the older children will earn income to help the family afford education for the younger children.

I was curious about how these young women felt about not being able to continue their education while making sacrifices for their younger siblings. Wouldn't they also feel some remorse or even bitterness towards a parent who did not see the value of education? Although they are now learning a marketable skill, tailoring is a common trade here. Subsequently, the prices for goods are low resulting in a wage that may only meet the basic needs of a single-parent family.   

Nie remarked that reacting to disappointment makes no difference. Therefore, feelings are not expressed; they are kept inside. In addition, families are typically very close and protective. I can’t tell if I am learning to be less reactive as a result of my time here. Interpersonal conflicts are easier to let go.  I am not sure I could, or want to, let go of some of the frustrations I experience when dealing with the inequities of the world. They are tied too closely to my passion for making the world right and just.

Tanzania ranks 119 out of 146 countries on the world Gender Inequity Index (2011 UN Report). Gender inequality is one of the current "front burner" issues in Tanzania. Following this issue as the movement unfolds is fascinating. I feel like I am living in an era that occurred before my time. Domestic violence is widespread throughout the continent of Africa. In many communities, violence against women is viewed as a private matter with victims discouraged from taking legal action, even by hospital staff and police. Cultural and family pressures also play a significant role in the lack of reporting. Currently, TV campaigns encourage women to speak out about gender-based violence.  

The US State Department produces a human rights document for Tanzania (and other countries). One of the interesting segments related to women and marriage laws. Girls as young as 15 can marry with the consent of parents or guardians, although no consent is required for orphaned girls without guardians. Additionally, the law allows Muslim and Hindu girls to marry as young as 12 as long as the marriage is not consummated until she is 15. To sidestep these laws, police are bribed or the family is paid a “bride price” to avoid persecution.

The women, in particular the poor, are arduous workers. These women perform all the housework, cooking, cleaning. Vendors rise at the crack of dawn to bake or buy their goods at the market. This life also takes its toll on the small children. Many times the young children sit with their mothers while they are selling. Toys and books are not a part of their day so there is no stimulation or creativity. Even as the country is placing more emphasis on education they are missing a huge piece in early childhood development.

  

Truck Hauling 

Bicycle Carrying Crates
Imagine the weight when full of bottles.

The role of men in Tanzania perplexes me. I have observed many fundi (laborers) doing construction, pushing heavy carts loaded with goods, transporting people by bus, taxi, daladala or motorcycle. They work long hours, sometimes 6 or 7 days per week. Alternatively, I see men sitting around much of the day visiting and drinking tea. I get the impression that many men here are restless in that they do not spend a lot of time at home. They come and go many times during the day; sometimes for church or mosque, sometimes for errands or visiting.

Ibrah is on the go much of the time but since he is arranging tours for safaris and climbs he is often meeting with clients and arranging the logistics. He often jokes that he is going to town to “sell his face”! He hired a dada to help Debra, especially during volunteer season and he takes an afternoon to watch Rahim so she can have some time to go to town or have her hair done. Fred, Debra’s brother is one of the more “progressive” men I have met. He and his fiancé live together which is not a common practice. They share cooking and on Saturdays he cleans and does laundry. They both work; Fred is a full-time computer tech and tour guide, and Grace works part-time at a lodge. Jonas, Nie’s husband, earns the “busiest man” award. He not only works with TAFCOM but also operates a computer business. He received his degree in teaching before switching to computers. TAFCOM was originally Nie’s brainchild. According to Nie, Jonas has always been supportive and has a very “giving heart”. I certainly saw evidence of this during the time I spent with him after Rose died.

Bicycle racing

Motorcycle racing

July 15 – Some time ago, while walking home from watching Magembe play basketball, Molly and I noticed several young men on rather small bikes in an open field. As we got closer, we observed that they were riding backwards. We stopped to watch and they rode over to talk to us. They race/perform on Sundays at a track in the town of Kiboriloni. Magembe, Molly and I decided this was a must-see. We took the daladala and arrived around 5pm. Some races had finished but we were able to see both motorcycle and bike races as well as a number of bike stunts. The track is one of only 3 in the country. They also had some dancers perform after the races. It was quite an interesting mix of people; we were the only mzungu. Several men sat at a table munching on the stems and leaves of a plant called Milungi. When chewed, it has a hallucinogenic effect. There was another area with a strong smell of marijuana.

Motorcycle Mama
Complete w American Flag

Bicycle Stunts

Unfortunately, Tanzania has not escaped the drug problem. Marijuana is common as well as heroin use and its trafficking. 2011 was a record-breaking year for drug seizures in Tanzania. The largest ever single drug haul seized 210kg of heroin worth $5.9 million. The UN Office of Drugs and Crime reports that Africa is emerging as a heroin trafficking hub, much of which is a result of ongoing corruption, widespread poverty and limited law enforcement.

I will end with a Rahim story. Rahim likes to visit. He comes to our building, calling “Bibi” at my door. It means grandma in Swahili. I find it quite endearing that I am called “Bibi” by everyone at the house. Rahim enjoys playing in (or destroying) my room. He recently learned how to flush my toilet and thinks it is great fun to try and open my vitamin bottles. The other day our outside door was open; Rahim knocked on my door. I heard “Bibi”. As I opened the door he said “Hello” sounding like a little adult. He is now 16 months old and I may be prejudiced but he is an exceptionally smart and precocious little guy.

Week 20 – School Days, School Days

July 1 - July 8

Molly is the volunteer staying at our house. As part of her scholar program at Notre Dame, she chose to spend this summer teaching and doing informal research on education in Tanzania. My knowledge of the education system has increased through Molly’s sharing of her daily activities and frustrations. I always thought of myself as a huge advocate and supporter of quality education but what I have learned and observed here would turn anyone into an activist.

Molly is teaching math to Form 4 (similar to seniors in high school) students at Karanga Secondary School. A student who passes the national exam after Primary school is either placed in the “ordinary” secondary school or the “higher level” secondary school dependent on their test scores. Karanga is an ordinary school. The regular teacher advised Molly on what lessons to teach according to the curriculum. She began with several days of trigonometry and then tested the students on examples they reviewed in class. The teacher approved the test as Molly wanted to make sure it was similar to the tests given by their regular teacher. The class consisted of 60 students, 25 boys and 35 girls. A boy received the top score with a 73%; a girl placed second with a score of 51%.  The top 20 scores were evenly divided between boys and girls.  Of the 60 students, 42 received F’s with a C being the highest score among the other 18.  

Note the range of their grading system:

A – 100-81

B – 80-61

C – 60-41

D – 40-21

F – 20-0

Typical Classroom

Desk

During the past two weeks I accompanied Molly to school on three occasions. I observed her teach and also sat in on Civics and History classes. The classrooms held 30-35 desks shared by 50-60 students with cement floors and bare cement walls except for a blackboard that spanned the front of each classroom. Overhead, the metal roof was exposed and there was no electricity in most of the rooms. The desks appear to be quite dated; they are wood with lift tops. I was pleased to notice that they were not carved up with graffiti. The chairs are metal and detached from the desks. I found them to be very hard, cold and uncomfortable. Students are responsible for arranging the desks as well as cleaning the school and maintaining the grounds.

Front of Classroom

Exposed Ceiling

Teacher training in Tanzania consists of 2-4 year programs. The minimum education to become a teacher is one year of coursework followed by one year of field work. There is discussion among community groups about forming a Teacher’s Board for accountability purposes but I was unable to find any info that the government has put anything in place yet. There are a few NGO’s around the country that have formed something similar to our Parent Teacher Organizations which focus on quality education and accountability.

Minimal interaction takes place between the teachers and students unless a question is asked by the teacher. When this happens, the student stands up and recites the answer in a robotic manner. It was not clear if the students understood the material or were just regurgitating information from rote memory. None of the students asked for clarification or offered further discussion. Neither the teacher nor any of the students had textbooks.

I did enjoy attending the Civics class and learned a lot about globalization and its positive and negative impacts on Tanzania. I also got the impression the teacher was liked and respected by his students. He would often say, “Good try”; or “I want to hear your voice today.”  Class was concluded with “Thank you for your participation and the contributions you have made”.

I can easily relate to Molly’s frustration after being at the school only a few days. Sometimes the teachers do not show up and the students just sit in the classroom for an hour waiting to see if the teacher of their next class will arrive. In one visit I walked by 3 classrooms with no teachers. We had wanted to observe an English class but the teacher did not show up and no one seemed concerned. There is nothing educationally motivating or exciting in any classrooms. These rooms are dismal and crowded. I would find it very difficult to think that learning could ever be fun in this type of environment.

Molly was aware that caning is used to discipline students. Teachers will hold back when there are volunteers on the grounds because they know we do not allow corporal punishment in the US. Unfortunately, the school must have felt Molly was acclimated to their surroundings and resumed caning this week. Tanzania law on corporal punishment states that only the Headmaster can administer corporal punishment and they are limited to 4 strokes. There is a provision for penalizing teachers who go against these regulations but it is not enforced at this school. Molly witnessed a teacher who had 20 students (boys and girls), kneeling on the ground, who were slapped and then hit on the hand with a stick. Another boy was hit 8 times in the staff room while teachers sat around chatting and laughing. These students were being punished for being disruptive in class. Needless to say, Molly was very disturbed by this. I am glad I was able to be a sounding board for her and hopefully provide some consolation.

Thursday night was a welcome change from the frustrations of the week. Ibrah invited Molly and me to Mkombozi Vocational Training Center. They were providing a dinner and entertainment for 16 high school students from England. We never say no to fun. A traditional African meal was served and it included a banana soup which was amazing. There were traditional dancers, acrobats, fire eating and then dancing. Everyone danced with everyone, boys with boys, girls with girls, young with older. Here is a short clip of fire eating and acrobatics. http//:youtu.be/2ILNCk3MN1Q

Molly and I compiled a survey questions for the students and interviewed 17 of them on Friday. The interviews consisted of questions about subjects the students liked; obstacles they encountered; their plans after Secondary School; and their attitudes towards education. After the students finish Form 4 of Secondary School they take a national test and, if they pass, will go on to Advanced Level (A-Level) for 2 years. I got one of two responses when I queried the students about their plans if they did not pass the national test. Either they said “I will pass the test!” or they looked at me blankly as if they had not given any thought to their future.

When questioning the students about obstacles encountered, we asked if they had missed extended periods of time due to circumstances like illness, non-payment of fees or work at home. Four students missed a week or more because of malaria or non-payment of fees. Housework and helping at home were cited by two students. A girl being raised by her grandmother failed a lot of exams because she missed school to care for her grandmother. For another, transportation was an issue because he walks 2.5 miles to school.

This generation of students is the first generation to hear the message about the importance of education. When asked about their parent’s attitude toward education, every student replied that it is the key to a better future. Many of their parents did not attend past primary school. A sampling of the students’ comments included:

“My mother tells me the only thing a parent can give their child is a good education. They can’t give more.”

“I live with my aunt. My parents died when I was 4. My aunt tells me that education is the only thing remaining that can help me have a better life.”

“I live with my grandmother. My father died suddenly in 2005 and my mother left after his death. My father was an engineer for the government and I attended private primary school. My grandmother did not have money to send me to private secondary school. She did not attend school. Before his death my father told me to focus on education for a better life; do not depend on anyone; and stand on your own.”

"I live with my aunt since Standard 3. My father died and my mother cares for 1 sister and 2 brothers. My mother told me to study hard and avoid bad things and bad peers; always have good behavior. My aunt tells me to study hard and life is very hard without education.”

First Developed in the
Early 1900's. This book has
been replaced by the
graphic calculator. This book
is used by the math teacher
at Karanga 2ndry School.

The importance of math has received little emphasis resulting in very low national scores. According to Tanzanians, the government curriculum and testing standards are much higher than the training received by the teachers. One of the students remarked that the teachers are poorly trained and, as a result, the students are not motivated. However, when asking the students about math, they do see it as important in daily life and the work world. But these are the same students who did so poorly on Molly’s math test. Having a son who got his undergrad degree in Math and spent a year teaching, I appreciate the significance of math beyond counting change, especially when it comes to critical thinking skills.

Table of Contents for
4 Figure Math Book

After each interview I tried to convey the significance of applying math skills when problem solving. I gave each student an example of a real-life situation they might face and showed how to break down the pros and cons so that ultimately what they had was a formula containing the information necessary to make an informed decision. I have no idea if I made my point but it was worth a try.

Another question posed to the students was, “What would you like to do as a job after you complete your studies? Doctor, lawyer, accountant, and engineer were common answers. A female student provided the most interesting and thought out answer which was my favorite: (paraphrased), “I want to be a businesswoman. I want to own a car business and showroom selling new cars in Tanzania and exporting to other countries. I also want to sell vehicles for agriculture to help farmers carry their crops. I feel that those who currently run car businesses do not have enough education. They sell mostly used cars and not enough new cars.”

I was pleased that the students all had an idea what career they wanted to pursue, but I have to wonder if their dreams can be realized. My heart just breaks over and over listening to their stories. I grapple with the moral dilemma of wanting to instill hope; of telling children that education is the key out of poverty; and then facing the reality of the many obstacles and severe lack of opportunities. Are the chances of achieving their goals out of reach? How many will realize their dreams and how many more will meet the same fate as their parents?

At times I feel like my heart is a 2 ton boulder ready to crash out of my chest and shatter into a million pieces. I hated the fact that I had to teach my children that life isn’t fair. I had no idea how haunting those words could be….

Magembe, Grace, Fred & Me

Dancers

Friday night, Fred (Debra’s brother) and his fiancé came over and wanted to go to Glacier Bar. Molly had never been and we were both ready for something fun. Magembe joined us. There is no cover charge so anyone can go and have a great time without spending a cent. The band was good and we danced all night. Everyone dances with everyone; there are no age or race barriers and it was a much needed break. There were more mzungus than locals but this is high season for volunteers. Just like last time there were guys “break dancing” and doing flips on the cement dance floor. They are amazing to watch. We didn’t get home until 2 in the morning. 2 beers costing less than $2.00 each, lots of dancing and all the problems of the world set aside for a few hours was very good for my mental health.

Molly, Friend & Me

Me having too much fun!!

The same way that I forget I am white; I also forget that chronologically I am “slightly” older than the average 20-something that goes to places like Glacier. I can still keep up with their energy and that’s all that matters. I will never feel too old to have fun. I remarked to Molly the next day how we can easily get bogged down in work and the routine of the day no matter where we are in the world. It is necessary to jump off that hamster wheel and let loose once in a while. What I appreciate here is that I can go somewhere like Glacier and totally enjoy myself. I think we need some U.S. “Clubs” for the over 50 crowd. How much fun would that be????

Sunday the 8^th – Today I realized that in one month I will be in Kenya. As much as I am looking forward to the rest of my travels, the thought of leaving Tanzania brings tears to my eyes. Sometimes I really wish I had more control over my emotions. I might shed enough tears that East Africa won’t have to worry about a drought for a long time.

Week 20 - Reflections on the death of a child

July 9 - July 11

I have relatives and friends who are parents and have lost a child. We all probably know someone who has endured this heartbreak. I cannot imagine anything more tragic. Whether it be a young child or an adult child, the parent’s pain must feel unbearable.

With the loss of a young child, the suffering of the parent revolves around a life cut short with no chance to experience the joys and sorrows, the successes and failures that are life’s lessons. When the death is that of an adult child, the parent’s realization of the unfulfilled potential, achievements and contributions bring an additional agonizing perspective.

As humans we tend to ask, “What if…?” as though we actually have the power to alter the path of another. We feel regret for not having done certain things differently. A multitude of emotions rise to the surface; guilt seems to play a prevailing role when we feel most vulnerable. I believe it is fair to say that not a day will pass in which a parent does not think about their child. In time, through the process of healing, the parent will hopefully find the strength to shift their focus to the memories that bring more joy than pain.

For Mwamini, I can’t help but wonder about the “What if’s” she is asking herself. Mwamini did not become aware of her HIV status until she was already pregnant with Rose. Therefore, the transmission of the disease to Rose took place either during the pregnancy or during childbirth. Trying to comprehend and cope with the emotions of learning that your child is HIV positive is indescribable. How does one struggle through the guilt and the powerlessness?

Giving birth was, without a doubt, the ultimate and most profound experience for me as a woman. I wish this for all mothers. But for Mwamini, and others like her, the cloud of AIDS overshadows the beauty of childbirth. AIDS is like a time bomb slowly ticking.

If Rose had been born into a family with the resources to provide quality health care and proper nutrition, would her life have turned out differently? This is just another question we cannot answer, not only for Rose but for countless others living in third world countries. (I need to clarify that AIDS is NOT just a poor person’s disease.) However, the plight of the poor living with HIV/AIDS is a constant uphill battle. Again, the “What if’s” hang in the shadows of their daily lives.

We assisted Mwamini with funds to start her own small business. With Nie’s support and encouragement, she was slowly making progress. Mwamini worked hard and even took the initiative to add products. She knew her priorities were to care for her family’s basic needs as well as educate her children and provide more nutritious meals because of the health issues. However, Rose’s first and subsequent hospitalizations required Mwamini to be at the hospital 24/7. These were major setbacks from which neither of them has recovered. Perhaps Mwamini can find some relief in the knowledge that Rose no longer suffers and Mwamini no longer has to watch the slow death she could not ignore. It is sad to think that their life may always be difficult but I am holding on to hopefulness for Mwamini and her other children.

I want to share some of the logistics around the planning of the funeral as they also evoked a number of emotions for everyone involved. But I first want to say that Jonas should be recommended for sainthood!

I am not clear on the relationship between Mwamini and Rose’s father. If there was any involvement it appears to have been minimal. He lives in Arusha, about an hour away. Mwamini is Muslim and the father is Christian. Apparently, about a month ago he was here and had Rose baptized.

Rose died around midnight on Monday, July 9th. I am not sure of her date of birth but she recently had her first birthday. Rose died at KCMC Hospital and the body then went to KCMC’s mortuary. Her body would not be released until the hospital bill was paid. It was Tuesday when we went to Mwamini’s to pay our respects and give her the funds for the hospital bill. At that time the family had tried to reach the father but he had not responded. When he did arrive, whether to bury Rose as a Christian or Muslim became a huge ordeal resulting in disagreements and indecision. Furthermore, the father wanted Rose to be buried in Arusha. Jonas was at the house Tuesday night and again on Wednesday morning attempting to reconcile the differences. When Jonas picked me up late morning on Wednesday there was still no resolution. As one might expect, I was rather upset that this man who may have transmitted AIDS to Mwamini, and most likely has provided no support; shows up to dictate the funeral arrangements. Fortunately, I did not meet him.

I found it impossible to keep my feelings silent. I told Jonas that the decision should be Mwamini’s as she is the one who must live with all the decisions that have been made throughout Rose’s life and, at the least, she should make the final arrangements. My anger was then evident when I also added that we could play hard ball and just tell the man that it is not his money paying for any of this so he has no say. Jonas said he could not tell if the man cared, or was confused, or actually sorry as there were times when he was in tears. The best I can hope for this man is that he will gain some sense of responsibility for his actions.

There were two neighbor women and Mwamini’s brother with us and Jonas informed me that we were going to the KCMC Hospital Mortuary. On the road leading to the hospital there are numerous “coffin shops”. Jonas stopped to get information in case it was a Christian burial. We were advised that a child’s coffin could be ready in two hours. When we arrived at KCMC Jonas had another conversation with the father and it was finally decided that Rose would have a Muslim burial. Muslim’s do not use coffins; instead they wrap the body in a mat wrapped in traditional cloths. Not having a mat, Jonas felt it would be quicker if he took a daladala to Moshi to buy the mat and return by motorcycle while we waited with the car.

After returning with the mat, we all entered the mortuary. Evidently, it is customary for the women to wrap the body. I am not sure why but I joined the women and helped with this procedure. It is complicated to describe my feelings. I actually felt very tranquil with an inner knowing that being there was the right thing to do; not only to show respect to Rose but to honor the strength of women. It felt like an act of support and solidarity.

The women and brother were in the backseat and the wrapped body was laid across their laps to be taken back to Mwamini’s. It was still not clear when or where the funeral would take place so Jonas suggested I go home and he would let me know. Shortly after leaving the hospital Jonas stopped the car. He walked across the road and broke off several branches from an orange flowered bush. He edged them into the front grill of the car. (This is how cars are decorated when there is a death.) I was totally taken off guard by this gesture of loving kindness and it was hard to hold back the tears.

When Jonas dropped me off I was able (both linguistically and emotionally) to express my condolences and tell the women I thought them to be very strong. I later learned that the father was taking Rose to Arusha to be buried. I know I was reactive and judgmental in my feelings towards the father.  I recently read that we must try to “see the depth in each experience and deal with the highest in every person”. I will continue to work on that one.

It is important to me that I find a positive in all my life experiences. In my very first blog I dedicated my half marathon to “the children of Tanzania with the hope that their lives may improve, they will find opportunities for success, and they will have the capabilities to give back”.  Through all the frustrations I have experienced and the obstacles I have observed on this trip, I will always hold on to this aspiration.

The Rose is a symbol of love and beauty. The color of the Rose adds even more significance.  

Sometimes called the "Flower of Light",  one of the meanings of the white rose is everlasting love - love  stronger than death - an unchanging loyalty that endures beyond all else.

The palest pink roses are a sign of gentleness, joy and grace.

Sometimes the darkest red roses are called "black roses". Their meaning goes beyond farewell and sorrow, loss and mortality; they also convey a positive message of rebirth and new beginnings.

Week 19 - All that Glitters.....

June 25-July 1

All That Glitters….is not gold.

The Story of Tanzanite

The office next to TAFCOM is the business of a Tanzanite dealer named Abby. I met him on my previous trips. He happened to be in his office one day as I was leaving TAFCOM and he invited me in. He showed me some of his tanzanite, talked about its history and provided me with a very informative US News & World Report article from 2001. I also researched additional info both on the gem and its mining.

Uncut Tanzanite-The darker the color
the more expensive the gem.

1.5 carats - $300

Tanzanite is found in only one place on earth, the Mererani Hills of Tanzania, near the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Popular history has it that the semi-precious gemstone was discovered by Masai herders in 1967. There was a grasslands fire and the heat from the fire allegedly turned some brown crystals into bluish-purple stones.

Queen of Kilimanjaro

TRIVIA: One of the most famous tanzanite gemstones is the “Queen of Kilimanjaro”. It is the world’s largest faceted tanzanite at 242 carats and set in a tiara with 803 garnets(32 carats) and 913 diamonds(14 carats). The tiara is part of a private collection of Michael Scott, the first CEO of Apple Computers. Apparently the Michael Scott collection has few rivals in the world outside of the royal families.

As beautiful as this gem may be, its history is wrought with stories of child slavery and dreadful working conditions. The discovery of tanzanite fueled a mining frenzy and turned Mererani into a lawless settlement reminiscent of the California Gold Rush. Promises of fortune have turned into shattered dreams. There are clashes between foreign and local miners. Illegal mining is widespread.

 Until recently, miners used mainly picks and shovels to dig out the stone. The early mine shafts were as deep as 1000 feet, usually without supports or ventilation.  Underground the air is hot and thick.

Thousands of children worked in the mines because they were able to move around more easily in the narrow shafts. They were known as Nyoka which means snake in Swahili and they would slither deep into the mine shafts, placing explosives into a narrow air pocket in order to blast open another tunnel. There is very little time to escape before the blast and many children did not survive.  Typical earnings were the equivalent of $2 per month. Some worked for food or on commission. Parents actually encouraged their children to work in the mines because there were no schools nearby for them to attend.

Tanzanite Miner

According to the US News & World Report article given to me by Abby, in 2001- only 11 years ago- over 30,000 boys were working as “snake boys”. Miners were sleeping on sidewalks or under trees, some actually slept and ate in the mines. There was no running water, forcing miners to drink from shallow wells and many contracted typhoid and cholera. Health care and sanitation were non-existent. An estimated 60% of the people had AIDS. Prostitution was rampant and some children under 10 were used as sex slaves. Drug and alcohol abuse was also a major problem.

A number of tragedies have occurred at the mines due to flooding. In 1998, 2000 and 2008, miners drowned in shafts that had flooded during rain storms. These floods typically occur at a time when the region experiences heavy rainfall which also damage crops and cuts off remote villages. Many miners die in explosions and suffocate when pits collapse.

Except for a few foreign-owned mining firms, the majority of the mining operations still use very basic tools and lack enforcement of safety standards. In addition, illegal mining is widespread. There is a union now (I could not verify the date but think it was formed in the late 90’s.) and the government is trying to put regulations in place but as long as there is illegal mining, there will always be inhumane conditions. 

In 1997, Tanzania joined an international effort against child labor, which has mobilized teachers, educators, organizations and the general public to launch campaigns against child labor and the local and national levels. Four years later in 2001, a child labor survey conducted by the Tanzanian government estimated that 40% of children between the ages of 5 and 17 were working. Approximately 27% of this number were between the ages of 5 and 9; with 44% between 10 and 14. This really makes me wonder what, if any, changes took place in the 4 years between 1997 and 2001. Or, if these statistics were higher in 1997, just how high were they?                                                                                                                                                                   

USAID in a 2002 report revealed that miners' lives were still threatened on a daily basis due to a lack of technology and lack of investment in safe working equipment and tools. Another article I read stated that while miners represent only 1% of global workers, they account for 8% of all occupation-related fatalities.

If you want to read more about the children and tanzanite mining, go to: http://www.wnd.com/2001/12/11824/ This article also talks about the mining of coltan which is an essential mineral used in electronic devices (cell phones, video game systems, computers, etc.) It is mostly mined in the DRC (Congo). Much of the financing for the conflicts in the Congo and surrounding countries were financed thru illegal sales of coltan. The area where the majority of the mining takes place is home to the Mountain Gorilla. Its population has been cut in half due to clearing of the area to make mining easier. If you want to read more on this topic:  http://www.cellular-news.com/coltan/  This is an amazing article on the mining of coltan and its exploitation. There are also links at the end of the article for further reading. The next time you think about throwing out an electronic device because it's a bit outdated give some thought to what went into producing it and consider upgrading it or at least sending it to a center specializing in electronics recycling.

I really lost myself and got so immersed in researching the topic of tanzanite and mining. It was  fascinating to me; yet the more I read, the more depressing the material. I was easily sidetracked to other articles of human rights violations and abuses.  This article is from the US Dept of Labor and is a very interesting article on Child Labor in Tanzania. (http://www.dol.gov/ilab/media/reports/iclp/tda2001/tanzania.htm)

Unfortunately I could not find a date on several of the articles I read. My guess is that most of them are about 10 years old. Think about your life 10 years ago. What was your world like? The US was focused on the tragedy of 9-11, fighting terrorism, and the Iraq war. But even before 9-11, did any of us have any idea that people lived and worked in these conditions. It is hard for me to comprehend a world that allows these atrocities to continue. When will we see the beauty and potential of each human being on this planet? Why do we treat each other the way we do? Aren’t we all in this life together? I try to be optimistic and believe strongly that we all have the potential to make a difference in so many ways. But there are times I just wonder how this will all end.

I promised I would conclude with fun stories so the rest of this will lift you up!

All that glitters…… is not just in Hollywood!

On Saturday TAFCOM submitted a grant to Project Inspire 2012. This grant is sponsored by UN Women Singapore and master Card.  http://5minutestochangetheworld.org/index.php It is a $25,000 grant that is all about women empowerment. The preferred format for submission is a 5 minute video about a program that would target disadvantaged girls and women between the ages of 18-35 and offer them opportunities for entrepreneurship. Nie and I had discussed ideas and agreed to focus on the Tailoring Center women. The project we came up with is called Sew to Grow and would involve additional instruction in Batik, crocheting and knitting to expand their product line. The women had also been asking for a cook stove to bake traditional breads for sale. A garden was planted for the first time this year and there are vegetable to sell too. Along with being more marketable because of enhanced skills, TAFCOM will offer a micro-loan and Business Management workshop for those who want to start their own business.

Molly (our new volunteer at the house) proved to be a godsend. Since she is an IT major, I immediately asked if she could help. She also has a Mac and is quite adept at movie editing. We all met at the Children’s Center on Thursday to film and thoroughly enjoyed using the new camera given to Nie and Jonas by the malaria group. Molly gets credit for videotaping and editing and I wrote the script and did the narration. The tedious work came when Molly and I had to slice and dice everything. It should come as no surprise that we went over our 5 minute limit. All in all we were very pleased with the final product, and our first attempt at film making. We need your prayers and positive thoughts that we get this grant.

10 finalists will be chosen and a representative from each of these projects will be flown to Singapore compliments of Master Card to present a full Project Plan to a panel of judges. There will also be public voting in August. When I told Nie about the trip to Singapore, she immediately said, “Can I go tomorrow?” The woman deserves a break, and TAFCOM really needs this grant because presently there are no funding sources other than donations and what comes out of the pockets of Nie and Jonas.

Please take just 5 minutes to view our film debut: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrocmVqtKo0

One interesting note: look closely at the salaries in the budget part of the video; I doubled most of them and they are still beyond pathetic.

Also, anyone needing voice over work I am ready, cheap and available!

Sad news- we did not get past the first round of the Elton John AIDS Foundation grant.

All that glitters……is sometimes sweat!

I have shared pictures and talked about the gym where I work out. I just don’t have the words to describe the energy of Boniface; although once I did compare him to Gene Simmons when he was in his prime. Now that we have one film under our belt Molly and I are ready to explore other venues. Boniface agreed to let us videotape a few parts of his class. So what you have is just snippets of the aerobics class and Boniface at his wildest. Check out his kick at 1:30. You need to know that he is this wound up whether we have just started or have been at it for an hour. I am in the red shirt and black shorts behind the guy in red shirt and white shorts. I suggest missing your workout today because you will burn calories just watching him!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYRQ0AtwVrI&feature=youtube_gdata

And to end your day.....

Mt Kilimanjaro

Mt Kilimanjaro from the House