Uganda - The Farm Projects

Aug 29 – Sept 1

While in Tanzania, staff from Groundwork Opportunities (http://www.groundworkopportunities.org) stayed at Ibrah’s for a few days.  They were going to Uganda to visit a project they support - an organic farm in a rural, remote village in the southeast part of the country. David, the volunteer from New Zealand, initially piqued my interest as he was to volunteer on the farm after being in Tanzania. I had a 3 week window of time to fill and arranged with Groundwork to spend it in Uganda. So here I am.

There are two farms. I will refer to the farm supported by Groundwork Opportunities (GO) as the GO Farm. It is approximately 40 acres with housing for 8 men who work the farm. About a mile from the Go Farm is the main house which is also a farm. I will call this the House/Farm. Hopefully this will be clear. Most of my time will be spent at the House/Farm.

Wednesday, Aug 29

I arrived at Entebbe Airport in Uganda and was warmly welcomed by Peter, founder of the Go Farm Program. I immediately felt good about the decision I made. I could see Lake Victoria as the plane landed and again on our drive form the airport. Lake Victoria is Africa’s largest lake by area (26,600 sq miles) and the world’s 2^nd largest freshwater lake (Lake Superior is 1^st).

Peter resides about an hour and a half from Entebbe on the outskirts of Kampala, the capital city (population: 1.6 million). The driving and congestion gets worse with each large city I visit. I thought Nairobi was insane. It is obvious that the expansion and maintenance of roads has not kept up with the population growth in Kampala. The motorcycle drivers are totally fearless and make the ones in Moshi appear safe. Our travel time was more a result of traffic than actual distance.

Front Yard

Peter and his family live in a lovely, spacious home. The lot is quite large with one section grassed and landscaped. Other areas contain raised gardens and chicken coops. Dinner was waiting when we arrived and I was introduced to the family. Peter’s wife, Cici, is a bank regional manager. They have 2 very sociable and well-behaved children, Daniella (age 3 ½) and Gabriella (2yo in October). As is typical of Africans, other people live in the house and many come and go. Peter also sponsors 8 area children whose families are very poor. The kids help out at the house and Peter provides meals for them and pays their school fees. The kids also come to the house for homework help and tutoring when needed. 

Peter, Gabby & Me

Thursday, Aug 30

Peter left early this morning to pick up Meschak from the bus stand. Meschak runs a GO-sponsored farm project in Rwanda and is interested in adding a pig project similar to Peter’s. Since Meschak is only here through the weekend, we will leave tomorrow (Friday) for the Go Farm. Meschak will return to Rwanda on Saturday. Peter leaves for the US on the 6th so will return to Kampala on Sunday to prepare for the trip. He is presenting at a conference at a pure foods conference in California and meeting with GO staff. Last year’s conference and expo brought in 10,000 people http://www.theheirloomexpo.com/. 

I spent the morning drawing pictures with Daniella. My drawing skills are pretty much on par with a 3 year old so we got along just fine. Peter and Meschak returned before lunch. Meschak’s English is pretty rough but he speaks Swahili. There were actually a few times when he didn’t understand an English word and I translated for him in Swahili! We ate lunch then headed to Kampala to see the city, run errands and prepare for the trip tomorrow. Traffic was bumper-to-bumper no matter the time of day or road we were on. Our errands took the better part of the afternoon so we picked up Cici from work and headed home. I have yet to decide whose driving is worse, Nairobi or Kampala drivers.

Since we are close to Lake Victoria, fish is abundant. We ate Tilapia for dinner and I was reminded how much I miss good fish.

Friday, Aug 31

Both farms are located in Kaliviso village just outside Masaka, about a 3-4 hour drive from Kampala. Peter and I picked up Mami (Peter’s aunt) and more supplies. Mami runs the House/Farm where we will stay. As her things were being loaded in the jeep, I was asked if I was allergic to cats. I said no which was the right answer because a box with a 3 month old kitten traveled with us. Mami said we would need to come up with a name for her.

For lunch we stopped by the roadside at a food vendor market. I tried roasted sweet bananas. It is a type of green banana (plantain) but with a mildly sweet taste. There are so many varieties of bananas here. The green bananas are a vegetable similar to potatoes. The yellow ones are fruits and sweet like ours. My favorite is the very small yellow sweet bananas which I wish we had in the US. The others ate roasted chicken on a stick. We also stopped along the road and bought a large smoked fish which would be our dinner. We had to be careful where we placed it in the jeep because the kitten had already escaped her box several times.

Peter & Adrian in Crop Field

We first stopped at the House/Farm to unload everything before heading over to the GO Farm about a mile away. Both farms are comprised of grazing land for the animals which include cows, goats and pigs. Much of the land is covered with beautiful lush green forests of banana trees, and bountiful fruits and vegetables, some I have never heard of or tasted before. Rolling hills in the distance add to the natural splendor and beauty of this area. If there was a Garden of Eden this is surely what it would have looked like.

Peter bought the land for the Go Farm in 2005 and started the first project in 2007. What he has accomplished in so few years is mind-boggling. His goal to create a model farm using sustainable methodologies of farming is a true work of genius.

Goats Grazing

Peter started his first project in 2007 with 150 goats. By 2009 he had 580 goats. Over 500 farmers each received one pregnant goat. Criteria to receive a goat included mandatory training, construction of a goat house, and planting enough feed for the animals. A pregnant goat will typically give birth to 2-3 kids. After the goats gave birth, each farmer returned one baby/kid to the Go Farm. This project has been very successful and Peter designed a Pig Project in the same way. There are currently 15 pregnant pigs, 2 males and 84 babies.

Mama & Piglets

Pig barns on Left,
Cow barns on Right

I got very carried away taking pig pictures

The Pig Pens are raised for cleanliness

The training that is required for eligibility in these projects is quite interesting. Not only does it include business and farming skills but also education on HIV/AIDS and human rights issues such as domestic violence. Apparently the first AIDS case discovered in Uganda was in the district where the farms are located. Peter feels strongly that people must be healthy in body and mind to be successful. The farmers and their families must know how to prevent or care for themselves if they are HIV positive. Their families also need to work together and be supportive of each other.

Peter received funding from GO in 2010 to add 2 milling machines. They are available for use by area farmers who bring their wheat, corn, millet, cassava and other grains.

A separate building houses a tailoring project for single mothers and widows. In February, Mami and Ime, one of the teachers, learned how to knit sweaters. Two knitting machines were donated and are housed at the House/Farm. In addition, the tailoring women also have a dance and drumming group.

Bee Hives

A Bee Project was launched this year. There is a large area set up with many hives. Peter provides training to farmers about beekeeping so they can start their own projects. Eventually the GO Farm will process the honey for sale.

Bio Gas Line to Cook Stove

Nothing goes to waste here. In addition to the projects, the farm supports composting and has built a well and irrigation system. I know nothing about Bio-Gas but Peter has started a project using cow and pig manure to make fuel. This will eventually be used for lighting and cooking as well as fertilizer. We had a demonstration of its use with a small cook stove. 

Area Children Collecting Water
for their families from the Well.

Future plans include a Seed Bank Project. For example, 5kg of bean seeds would be given to a farmer. After harvesting the beans, 10kgs of seeds would be returned to the GO Farm. Peter explained that 300-500kgs of beans would be a typical yield from the initial 5kg of seeds.

This is how the water is hauled home.
The bike is bigger than the child and the water
 jugs probably weigh more than he does

The most impressive undertaking of the Seed Bank Project involves the planting of mango (2010) and orange (2011) orchards. 10,000 families will receive 10 seedlings each as soon as the trees reach maturity. Peter is a passionate man whose goal in this project is to positively impact the environment by combatting climate change through planting and increasing the number of trees. In all that he does, Peter’s focus is on the environment and income generation. I have no doubt that he will be successful in all his endeavors. I only wish I had more time to learn from him which just gives me another reason to return!

Here is a link to GO with a video of Peter talking about some of his projects: http://www.groundworkopportunities.org/ideas/pig-farms/

We ended our day at the House/Farm with a dinner of the smoked fish and vegetables. The fish was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. People and kids were in and out. There was a lot of conversation and laughter. Unfortunately, I understood nothing that was being said. Peter and Mami’s English is very good and sometimes Peter would explain what was being said. Mostly, I was content to just sit and observe knowing I was going to love it here.

Saturday, Sept 1

Peter, Mami, Meschak and I left for a day in Masaka. We dropped Meschak at the bus stand and said our goodbyes. He invited me to Rwanda when I return to Africa. My priority for the day was to go to a clinic. Peter took me to Byansi Clinic. He knew one of the nurses so I was left in good hands as he had many errands to run and clinic visits typically take an hour or two. 

E. Hystolytica - If I had known they
were this cute I would have named them.

I immediately liked Solomon, the doctor. He was quite humorous and began our visit with a Google search to show me a picture of my parasites, pointing out how each one looked like the face of an old man. He also was curious as to why I chose to come to Africa and my impressions of the people. He expressed his displeasure at the number of antibiotics I had been taking. My test for parasites was negative. He suggested that my current symptoms were probably more a result of the meds than anything else. He gave me Vitamin A capsules and a powder to mix with water which would keep me hydrated. Needless to say, I was relieved. Total cost – $5.36 plus $.60 for a 1.5 liter bottle of water I bought at the market across the street.

After meeting up with Peter and Mami, we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. I had tilapia, steamed pumpkin and rice. Besides being delicious with large portions, the total cost for all three meals and drinks was $7.00. I am going to have a difficult time returning to restaurants in the US where I will be lucky to get one meal for $7.00!

Peter and I spent some time in the evening talking about the GO Farm and his interest in a micro-loan project. He is looking into funding and would like a business plan written. I will work on this while I am here using the plan that we have for TAFCOM.

Peter shared some of his background, explaining that farming is in his blood. Raised in rural Masaka, his parents were farmers. He was fortunate in that his family always had food. When there was a famine in 1985, food was scarce but they still ate each day. According to Peter, his father was an outspoken advocate for justice. In 1998 he was murdered as a result of his political views. Peter was raised and is still a strong Catholic. He considered being a priest but felt a stronger draw to focus on helping people as his priority mission. He was not sure he could realize his dreams through the priesthood.

View from Road in Front of House

Fortunately we all go to bed early, which I appreciate, because the roosters start their noise making before dawn and as always, they are not far from my window! 

Victoria Falls - The Smoke that Thunders

August 23 – August 29

I knew Lake Victoria was located in the NW corner of Tanzania bordering Uganda and Kenya. I planned my trip to Victoria Falls assuming it was near the lake and only a short bus trip from Kenya. My plans included running the half marathon plus a few leisurely days in Vic Falls and then another bus into Uganda. Much to my dismay I learned Vic Falls is south of Tanzania in southern Africa. Oops. I now had no choice but to book flights from Nairobi, Kenya to Vic Falls and then from Vic Falls to Entebbe, Uganda. In addition, my flights to and from Vic Falls involved an overnight (22 hour layover) stay in Johannesburg, South Africa, which was another unplanned expense for hotels. This was a costly lesson in Geography!

Thursday Aug 23

Departing the plane in Victoria Falls, I was immediately hit by the heat. Tanzania had been fairly cool as was Kenya. Daytime temperatures in Victoria Falls are averaging in the high 80’s. It also feels more humid. I prefer the heat but wondered how it would be for race day.

A pre-arranged shuttle transported me to the Victoria Falls Backpacker where I would be spending the next 5 days. Vic Falls Backpacker is rustic and homey; perfectly suited for me. It was like being in a campsite but I had a room and bed. Communal showers and toilets were very clean and we had hot water most of the time.A pool, campfire, and sitting areas filled the open spaces. Our eating area consisted of several picnic tables under a shelter with a refrigerator, stove, and microwavefor the guests to use. The staff was friendly and always accessible.

I was assigned to the Elephant room which contained 5 closely situated beds. 4 additional people would be arriving the next night. Sharing a cramped room with 4 strangers was not my idea of a peaceful sleeping arrangement. Another room was available but the key had been lost. Personally, I would rather stay in an unlocked room than spend 4 nights with 4 strangers in very close quarters. Safes were available for valuables so I mentioned my preference to Lia, one of the staff. She was ok with me moving. Fortunately they were able to get a locksmith out the next day and so I will now reside in the Giraffe Room.

Baboon Mom and Baby

When I asked about running on the roads I was told to turn left out of the drive because if I went right it was likely I might run into elephants or buffalo. I thought it wise to go left towards town where I did see wart hogs and baboons randomly roaming the roads. The Backpacker is about a 15 minute walk to the town of Victoria Falls. It is a tourist’s town with a (population 35,000) but with a relaxed, laid back atmosphere.

Warthogs

Mandy was the first person I met at the Backpacker. She will be running the full marathon. Mandy is 26, working as a Physical education teacher for the Peace Corps in Mozambique. She completes her 2 year placement in November.

Friday Aug 24

I slept great last night and there were no roosters! It was a leisurely day which included a run, a walk into town to purchase food for the next few days, and registering for the half marathon. The Backpacker is starting to fill up. We met 6 men and 1 woman from Zambia who are here for the Marathon. One of the men came in 5^th in the Kili Marathon in February. Their coach will join them for the race.

Mandy asked if I wanted to go into town to an outdoor concert. She was antsy for some social life as her Peace Corps placement is an isolated area in Mozambique. The concert featured local pop and traditional singers and dancers. Mandy had gone white water rafting the day before and we met one of her guides and his friends. It is common to be asked “Where are you from?” One of the locals introduced himself and jokingly said, “I am from China”.He turned out to be a great guy and we hung out with him several more evenings. Later in the evening fireworks lit the sky, followed by a water spray that was supposed to mimic the Falls. However, the water soaked the stage and blew out the sound system ending the evening’s festivities.

Saturday, Aug 25

Mandy and I packed a lunch and spent the day at Victoria Falls National Park. Vic Falls is classified as one of the 7 natural wonders of the world and exceeded my expectations of its natural beauty. While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, it is reported to be the largest. It is over 5,600 feet wide with a height of 354 feet, forming the largest sheet of falling water in the world. 

Rainbow

If you look closely in the center
you can see a bungee jumper (NOT me)

 

 We treated ourselves to chocolate milkshakes at the park. For dinner we decided to get our carb load for the marathon and ate pasta in town.

That evening a number of guests gathered around the campfire. The group included ayoung man from England, 2 families from Namibia, and a gentleman from Italy. Conversation was lively and interesting. I often think that people from other countries know more about our politics than we do. It is fascinating to hear how others view the US. Our health care system and the upcoming presidential election are hot topics as well as the world economy.

Every person I have met has asked “What are you thinking?” when referencing the stalemate on universal health care. I was told that we are the only Western developed country without this type of health care(fact check, anyone?). One man remarked, “It is not socialism, it is a human right.” In terms of the election all were supporters of Obama but think it will be a close election. An interesting comment by the Italian was that even the more conservative political groups in Europe are closer in philosophy to the Democrats than the Republicans. (I am just reporting content not personal opinion, although I shared my views as objectively as possible!)Another discussion topic was concern over China’s emerging role in the world.China is a major player in many African countries.

Sunday, August 26

Mandy and I headed for the Marathon around 6:00 am. The number of runners was much smaller than I expected, maybe 500 people total.I had not trained well and knew my time would be pathetically slow. Mandy and I really only cared about finishing and getting a shirt.

The course was quiet and picturesque. We ran over the bridge which overlooks part of the Falls. I ran most of the race alone. I thought that might make it mentally tougher but the scenery was so pleasant that I rather enjoyed the solitude of nature on both sides of me. I passed a sign that said “Elephant Crossing”. I did see baboons but they are as plentiful as tourists.

I was not physically prepared and knew that I would walk a large portion of the course. The first 8-9 miles went ok. Water stops were plentiful with wet sponges and sprinklers available. The day was hot reaching 90 degrees. I only had to take one potty break in the bush. Running through an area of cabins I found a structure that looked like an outhouse. It wasn’t, but did provide me protection from passersby! I could hear “Chop My Money” playing at the nearby water stop. (This was a great Tz song that we all loved). I walked much of the last 4 miles which was quite hilly and spent the last mile with a man from England. I finally finished in an embarrassing 3 hours and 15 minutes. I had splurged and bought a dark chocolate bar the day before. I had frozen it so that by the time I finished the race it was melting in my mouth!

It turned out that the sponsor for the half marathon was a different company than the sponsor for the full marathon.  My shirt only had a Zambezi Beer Logo on it and no print indicating participation in a race. This was not acceptable!! I met some staff from the company sponsoring the full marathon and they kindly gave me a shirt. I also met a couple from Pennsylvania who had been biking through Southern Africa. They arrived in Vic Falls 2 days ago unaware of the marathon. The woman decided to run the half and got 4^th place. So much for training! I hung out with the Zambia racers and met their coach. He was from the US and had run for Dartmouth College. Turns out he raced against Neal and knew his reputation as a runner. Can the world get any smaller??

Mandy, me & Zambia Runners

Mandy finished the full in a little over 5 ½ hours. The thought of walking even a mere 15 minutes to Backpacker’s sounded grueling. Fortunately we ran into Arnold, one of the owners of Vic Falls Backpacker, and he gave us a ride home.The rest of the day we hung out relaxing and cooling our legs in the pool.

A  Marathon evening after-party was hosted by an area boat club. Mandy and I stopped by and tried Zambezi beer, a locally made beer and sponsor of the half. (Since I had finished my parasite meds I could finally drink.) We sat by the dock watching the sunset over the lake and played with a lively 6 year old. We then returned to town and as usual ran into China and another of his friends, Moses, who was possibly as short as me. We all danced and then sat for a beer.  The next thing I know,  Moses is sitting rather close to me and then proceeds to put his arm around me. I ask his age and learn he is 25. I share that is the age of my daughter. Mandy sees what is going on and we all start talking about our ages and how I am old enough to be his mother. He leans over and whispers in my ear, Love is blind. OMG, Only here could I be hit on by a 25 year old!!

Monday, August 27

Siblings

I was picked up at 6:30 am by a bus that took about 20 of us to the Walk with the Lions. The park is a research, rehab and release center for lions with a focus on conservation education. At the park we were split into two groups. Our group consisted of a couple from Chicago, a mother and daughter from LA, a woman from England and 5 people from France. Several guides, one with a gun and a belt full of bullets, accompanied us. “Just in case,” they told us! 

Five minutes into our walk we encountered two lions, a brother and sister, aged 13 months. The guides were very professional and the rules understandably strict. We were told how to approach the lions, and where and how to crouch to pet them. We all carried sticks which were supposed to be used if the lion tried to “playfully” jump on us. Fortunately no one had to use their stick – hard to imagine how effective it would have been.

Just taking a Leisurely Stroll

We spent an amazing hour interacting with the lions. Of the many tourist adventures I could have chosen I am so glad I decided on the Walk with the Lions. Being in the presence of these remarkably powerful beasts produces a humbling respect for all animals and nature.

It just doesn't get any better than this!

Eating Elephant poop - Very Nutritious

Having too much FUN!

 

After returning home I went to the area health clinic to be retested for parasites. The doctor advised me that Livingstone, Zambia was the closest clinic with a lab. Because Zimbabwe is not allowed to carry cultures across the border, I would have to go there for testing. This would be a 60 mile trip and involve another Visa. Since I was leaving tomorrow this was not possible. I explained my current symptoms. The doctor and nurse consulted, deciding to give me additional meds as they thought I might still have parasites. I was advised to get tested as soon as possible. I was given an injection of an antibiotic plus additional antibiotics in pill form. I never envisioned learning about health care in developing countries through first-hand experiences. I have been to more doctors in the last 3 months than I have in the last 5 years in the US.

Later in the day Mandy and I walked to the outskirts of town to a local market which was similar to the Second Hand market in Soweto. We were the only mzungu and we both remarked how we felt we were back in Africa again. Tourist towns often lack the true local flavor of a culture. I prefer to be among the locals when I have the choice.

We treated ourselves to ice cream before heading home. Instead of a drive-thru, the ice cream store had a walk-thru with 4 steps up to a window and then 4 steps down. It reminded me of an Escher drawing until I realized its purpose.

Dan & Jen arrived at Backpackers yesterday who are also staying at Backpackers. They joined Mandy and I for my last night in Vic Falls. Shoestring Backpackers was our watering hole for the night.  I initially planned to stay there but they were booked. It was a great place to sit out under the stars and enjoy a drink but I am glad I did not stay there. Shoestring caters to a younger, party crowd with a bar open all day and music playing every nite into the early morning hours.

Dan & Jen are from San Francisco and traveling thru Southern Africa. We watched videos of them in an enclosed tank encircled by sharks in the ocean off the coast of South Africa. Tomorrow they are going to the Zambia side of Victoria Falls, where one can lay in designated areas of water at the edge of the Falls.  I really wanted to do this but the cost was prohibitive and I would also have to pay for a Zambian visa.

I discovered that Dan‘s parents came to the US from Vietnam in the 70’s after the fall of Saigon. Because of his father’s involvement in military intelligence, it is likely his father would have been killed if he stayed in Vietnam. I shared my experiences working at Ft Chaffee, Arkansas in the 1975 when the first groups of Vietnamese were airlifted to the states and my subsequent job directing a state refugee health program for incoming refugees.

Tuesday, August 28

Victoria Falls was beautiful and relaxing. I met a lot of great people and could return there in a heartbeat. It was well worth the geography lesson. I will miss Mandy. We both remarked that being together made our visit to Vic Falls even better than expected. She has family in Indiana; so we will hopefully plan a visit. In the meantime, there is always Facebook.

I am off to Uganda with another layover in Johannesburg. Waiting in line at the Vic Falls airport I saw the couple I met at the marathon who were from PA as well as the Chicago couple from the Walk with the Lions.

As previously informed, there was a tourist Info desk at the Johannesburg airport. I found a guesthouse for much less than my first stay and airport shuttles were included in the price this time.

Wednesday, August 29

Back to the airport for my flight to Uganda. I have no idea what to expect in Uganda. I am looking forward to something completely different and have a feeling I won’t be disappointed.

Kenya

August 15 – August 22

The 6 hour shuttle to Nairobi from Moshi took 7 hours. Immigration is a slow and inefficient process! However the drive was enjoyable. Kili peaked out of the clouds for a short while and the countryside was picturesque. The stalks from the harvested corn fields gave a golden glow to the scenery.

I met Gilbert, my guide, and we took a taxi to the house where I would be staying. Driving thru Nairobi, I noticed that all the signs and billboards are in English. Shell gas stations popped up everywhere.  Nairobi has a population of 4 million people. It is developed and modern in some parts but there is a huge gap between the rich and the poor. I am not sure there is even a middle class.

I stayed in Runda Estates which is near the UN and embassy buildings. Many diplomats and government officials live in the Runda area.  I learned that the UN compound in Nairobi is the 3^rd largest in the world. A tree-lined drive led to the gated entrance of a large landscaped lot. I would estimate the house to be close to 5,000 square feet furnished with modern appliances and furniture. I met Iris, whose mother owns the house, and Nick who works for the family taking care of the home and property as well as cooking. Several renters work for the UN.

That evening Gilbert was to meet his friend who was renting him a car for our trip. I gave him the funds and we planned to meet the following morning. Gilbert called the next morning to say there was a delay. As I later learned, Gilbert paid the man the previous evening and he never showed up with the car. Gilbert had worked with this man several times before so was comfortable with paying him before receiving the car. Gilbert filed a report with the police. I met up with him around 11am. He was very distraught and I felt horrible for him even though it was my money that was stolen. We spent the next several hours trying to arrange for a car and finally were ready to go around 2pm.  As frugal as I am I could not let this incident damper my experience. I had to let it go and enjoy the rest of the journey. We spent the day around Johannesburg visiting the Giraffe Center and Animal Orphanage.

Feeding a Giraffe

More Feeding

Animal Orphanage

Animal Orphanage

I found Gilbert to be a delightful road trip companion and we had lots of laughs and good discussions. Stories of Kenya politics and government corruption filled much of our time. Gilbert is a genuinely good man whose story mimics so many who come to Nairobi from rural Kenya in search of a better life. His wife and 2 children live in rural Kenya with his mother. He struggles but is determined to return soon and has begun planning a farm.

The road we drove on is a major connecting road not only in Kenya but throughout the African continent. It is part of the Cape Town to Cairo road. However, I don’t think we ever traveled more than a mile without encountering potholes, speed bumps or uneven roads. According to Gilbert, instead of repairing this road, the president put money into fixing the road that goes from Nairobi to his home land.

HELL’S GATE

Zebras

A beautiful park with a “gorgeous” gorge. Driving through the park we encountered animals and beautiful landscapes. At one point we noticed these billowing clouds and a constant loud noise. According to workers at the site, the government was engaged in a geothermal drilling project to produce electricity.

We definitely made a good decision when we chose to hike through the Ol-Onjowora Gorge. Rasto was our guide for the 2 ½ hour hike. The Massai manage the Gorge hikes and the income is used for community development projects for 6 Massai villages that surround the park.

Rasto is 26 and the oldest of 6 children. His father has 2 wives and he is the eldest son. He acknowledged that it is important for him to set a good example for his younger siblings. He completed Form 4 of Secondary School and aspires to be a lawyer for the Massai. We engaged in a discussion about the impact of western influences on Africans. I asked what he thought has had the most negative impact.  Rasto did not have to think long before saying that media technology, TV in particular, was a negative influence. He also added that he finds much of the Western clothing styles to be inappropriate.

Rasto also clarified that the geothermal drilling will benefit Nairobi and not bring any electricity to their villages. In addition, the government offered no compensation to the Massai villages.

Gilbert & me at Hot Springs
One hot water pool could
 boil an egg in 8 minutes

VERY Steep climb in the Gorge

Gorge

Devil's Bedroom &
spot filmed in Tomb Raider

                                       

The hike had some very tough and tight spots that felt more like rock climbing than hiking.  On several occasions Rasto had to guide my feet and hands as we climbed down steep stone walls with footholds and tree branches used as makeshift ladders. I had to put complete trust in him. As strong as he was I was grateful to be a small person. I was impressed to learn that scenes from Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie were filmed in the Gorge. I was impressed to learn that she hiked in and out like everyone else.

NAKURA PARK

This park was teeming with wild animals and panoramic vistas. Many varieties of birds, including flamingos, could be seen up close as we drove along the lake. Baboons were everywhere – playing and grooming each other in the middle of the road, jumping between trees; we even saw them on rooftops in the parking lot. Park management left a bit to be desired. Road signs were scarce and those that did exist were often unclear and confusing. Several roads were also flooded and impassable. Despite this minor annoyance, we encountered numerous animals and spent over 6 hours in the park. Zebras and buffalos were the most plentiful. We found some lions but they were napping in tall grass so we could not get a close look. However, we did see rhinos within about 40 feet of our car!

Add caption

Birds along the lake

View of Nakura Park from Overlook

Rhinos

Nakura Waterfall

After leaving the park we decided to drive the 4 hours to Kakamega for an early start on the Rain Forest hike. Gilbert contacted a cousin in Kakamega about hotels and learned they were all booked due to a government. We stayed in a town called Eldorot and I was never so grateful to find a room. We drove about 3 hours, mostly in the dark. The road was “white-knuckle” driving all the way. I do not know which is worse – driving on this road or driving thru a “lake effect” snow storm near Buffalo, NY!

The mix of rural countryside and no road lights equals a pitch black night. No signs warned us of speed bumps; much of the road was uneven and very bumpy. Most alarming were the other drivers. The countryside is quite hilly. Because of their overweight loads, the trucks travel at a snail’s pace and cause traffic problems. To resolve this, the government (instead of setting weight limits) added “Climbing Lanes” for the uphill sections. These lanes appeared quite often causing me to wonder why the government did not just add a second lane for trucks. The “strategies” used for passing is totally terrifying. When there is a climbing lane, cars from the other side of the road will use our lane for passing and vice versa. The distance between oncoming cars and the passing cars is dangerously close. It felt like dodge cars in the dark. We also encountered several vehicles with no rear lights, one being a slow moving tractor.

Needless to say, we were both relieved to see the lights of Eldorot. We both agreed that a beer was just what we needed to calm our nerves and relax us for sleep.

KAKAMEGA RAIN FOREST

After the drive last night, Gilbert discovered that the tire nozzle had a slow leak. We got that repaired and returned to our bumpy road, this time driving through potholes that could have swallowed a small vehicle. Cars were driving on the berm or whichever side of the road contained the least amount of potholes. Lanes just did not exist. In one section we came upon several young boys filling potholes with dirt from the side of the road. We stopped and gave them some extra food for the efforts.

Arriving at Kakamega Rain Forest we chose the 4 hour walking tour and Ruth was our guide. On the nature hike we saw Colobus and Blue monkeys. There was wild ginger we were allowed to pick and eat. We also tried Guava which was one of my favorite juices in Tanzania. We hiked to a view point and up many steps to the top of a tower which overlooked the park. The downhill hike back into the forest was very steep and led us to a waterfall.

300 year old tree
Love the elevated roots

Waterfall

Wild Ginger

There is a village that butts up to the forest so we walked along the community road for the final trek of our hike. We met some children who gave us sugar cane. We finished our hike around 5 and since we were very close to Gilbert’s home, he asked if I would mind if he went to see his family for the night and he would pick me up around 6am for the drive home. We estimated it would take between 6-7 hours. We found a hotel for me and Gilbert made sure I was settled in and safe before he left.

Village House - Note greens in front.
This is the outhouse/shower

Me & Gilbert munching on sugar cane
n't tell my dentist!)

RETURN TO NAIROBI

6:00am passed as did 6:30 and 7:00. I tried to remain calm but after the kind of driving we encountered, it was hard not to think that something might have happened to Gilbert. My phone, which was supposed to work in Kenya, failed constantly. Attempts to reach Gilbert were unsuccessful. I paid a hotel staff for phone minutes and she tried to call but also could not get through. At this point, panic is setting in. I was mentally planning how to get shuttles or buses back to Nairobi, knowing that I had no idea how to get to the house where I was staying. Finally, a knock on the door and I hear Gilbert’s voice. I almost jumped through the door. His family was so happy to see him that they were up much of the night and he only got 2 hours sleep. He also forgot his phone charger; his phone died and he had no way to reach me. I was so relieved that he was ok I could not be upset.

A few days before leaving Moshi I had not felt well and was having intestinal issues again but the symptoms were different than the bacterial infection. I was not feeling better so Gilbert and I agreed that he would take me to a clinic in Nairobi before returning the car. We were unaware that it was the end of Ramadan which is a national holiday in Kenya and, although we were going to a Catholic Mission clinic, it was closed. Gilbert dropped me off at home and we planned to get together Tuesday to exchange pictures.  Also his wife and youngest son were coming to visit for a week so I would get to meet them.

When I got home I arranged with Nick to go to the health clinic the next morning. I then ventured up to the Village Market. It is a 30-40 minute walk and I thought I understood the directions I was given. I asked several times for directions and finally found it but knew there was a much shorter way home. The rest of this story is embarrassingly stupid on my part. I know I am directionally challenged so why I think I can try my own short cut and not get lost is beyond me. I ended up in the general vicinity of Runda Estates. I walked for a while with a nice young woman who was trying to be helpful but had me in a totally different neighborhood. I then met a security guard who got me going in the right direction but I mixed up the names of the roads and was starting to feel very unsure of where I needed to be. It was also getting dark so like the morning I was getting a bit stressed, to say the least. My savior came in the form of a bodaboda driver (the motorcycles I swore I would never ride – called pikipiki in Tz). I hopped on his bike and he got me home just as the sun was setting.

LAST DAY

Nick is like Gilbert in that he also moved to Nairobi to try and earn a better living so as to help his family.  He has only been here 3 months. His father is deceased and his mother is in poor health. It is hard for him being so far away. He sends half of his pay home to help with basic needs and school fees for his younger siblings and is trying to save the rest. His family also lives in a rural area and he wants to farm. He studied agriculture and hopes to return home soon.

Nick and I rode a matatu to the health clinic. These are the same as the daladala buses in Tanzania. However, In Kenya, there are laws that only allow a drier to transport as many people as there are seats and all passengers must wear seat belts. This cuts into their revenue but is far safer. As with all of these drivers, time is money. The driver came to our stop and I had one foot on the ground when the bus started to move. The conductor was on the road next to the bus and caught me. He hollered at the driver to stop so Nick could get off. Good thing we were near the health center; fortunately I did not fall.

I tested negative for bacterial infection but positive for parasites which means I drank some bad water or ate some unclean food somewhere. I am again on drugs. The tests and meds cost me less than $7.00.

I needed to return to the Village Market to exchange my money and print off flight info as my flight time had changed. This time I did not get lost and was quite proud of myself. Village Market is a very deceiving name. This place is a very modern mall that even has a water park attached to it. Gilbert came over after I returned home and we walked to his house to exchange pictures. He had told me he lived in the “ghetto”.  It reminded me of homes in Pasua except the buildings were more closely crammed together. He lives in two rooms separated by a sheet. I met his wife and youngest son, Samuel, who is 6. We shared pictures and tea. Samuel thought I was pretty funny when I tried to use my Swahili.

Although my time in Kenya was short I found the people to be very kind and eager to help. It was odd that when I tried to use my Swahili, people would respond in English. It is a very picturesque country and I thoroughly enjoyed being a tourist. Also, Gilbert received a call from the police that they had arrested the guy who was supposed to rent us a car. He admitted to taking the money but, of course did not have it anymore. I told Gilbert if he ever receives any of the funds to put it towards moving home.

LEAVING KENYA

I was picked up at 5:45 am and taken by taxi to the airport for my flight to Victoria Falls. It felt like déjà vu as I chatted with Paul, my driver. He moved to Nairobi with hopes of earning a better income to support his mother, wife and two children who live in a rural part of Kenya. I am not sure if anyone is actually from Nairobi.

My flight was good. Immigration and security were no problem. My only concern was that I had a 20+ hour layover in Johannesburg, South Africa. I booked a room for the night but had not received a confirmation that I would be picked up at the airport. As I was heading toward the exit I saw shuttle drivers with various names on cards and my name was on one of them. I was so grateful to meet Derrick, the driver. He was a lot of fun to talk to and will take me to the airport tomorrow. AND he moved to Johannesburg from a rural part of South Africa because there are more opportunities for employment.

Johannesburg feels like being in the US. It is very developed with modern freeways and the downtown looks like any downtown in the US with lots of tall buildings.

I found a very affordable Bed & Breakfast online which was adorable and I really wanted to stay there on my return trip form Victoria Falls to Uganda (another 20+ layover). However, I quickly learned the difference between “Airport Shuttle Available” and “Airport Shuttle Included”. I thought the shuttle trips were part of the price of the room but it turned out to cost more for the round trip airport transportation than it did for the room. Ouch! Furthermore, at the airport I was informed that they have a Tourism Help Desk where I can book a room when I return and get free shuttle service for much less than I paid.

Next stop – Victoria Falls