Victoria Falls - The Smoke that Thunders

August 23 – August 29

I knew Lake Victoria was located in the NW corner of Tanzania bordering Uganda and Kenya. I planned my trip to Victoria Falls assuming it was near the lake and only a short bus trip from Kenya. My plans included running the half marathon plus a few leisurely days in Vic Falls and then another bus into Uganda. Much to my dismay I learned Vic Falls is south of Tanzania in southern Africa. Oops. I now had no choice but to book flights from Nairobi, Kenya to Vic Falls and then from Vic Falls to Entebbe, Uganda. In addition, my flights to and from Vic Falls involved an overnight (22 hour layover) stay in Johannesburg, South Africa, which was another unplanned expense for hotels. This was a costly lesson in Geography!

Thursday Aug 23

Departing the plane in Victoria Falls, I was immediately hit by the heat. Tanzania had been fairly cool as was Kenya. Daytime temperatures in Victoria Falls are averaging in the high 80’s. It also feels more humid. I prefer the heat but wondered how it would be for race day.

A pre-arranged shuttle transported me to the Victoria Falls Backpacker where I would be spending the next 5 days. Vic Falls Backpacker is rustic and homey; perfectly suited for me. It was like being in a campsite but I had a room and bed. Communal showers and toilets were very clean and we had hot water most of the time.A pool, campfire, and sitting areas filled the open spaces. Our eating area consisted of several picnic tables under a shelter with a refrigerator, stove, and microwavefor the guests to use. The staff was friendly and always accessible.

I was assigned to the Elephant room which contained 5 closely situated beds. 4 additional people would be arriving the next night. Sharing a cramped room with 4 strangers was not my idea of a peaceful sleeping arrangement. Another room was available but the key had been lost. Personally, I would rather stay in an unlocked room than spend 4 nights with 4 strangers in very close quarters. Safes were available for valuables so I mentioned my preference to Lia, one of the staff. She was ok with me moving. Fortunately they were able to get a locksmith out the next day and so I will now reside in the Giraffe Room.

Baboon Mom and Baby

When I asked about running on the roads I was told to turn left out of the drive because if I went right it was likely I might run into elephants or buffalo. I thought it wise to go left towards town where I did see wart hogs and baboons randomly roaming the roads. The Backpacker is about a 15 minute walk to the town of Victoria Falls. It is a tourist’s town with a (population 35,000) but with a relaxed, laid back atmosphere.

Warthogs

Mandy was the first person I met at the Backpacker. She will be running the full marathon. Mandy is 26, working as a Physical education teacher for the Peace Corps in Mozambique. She completes her 2 year placement in November.

Friday Aug 24

I slept great last night and there were no roosters! It was a leisurely day which included a run, a walk into town to purchase food for the next few days, and registering for the half marathon. The Backpacker is starting to fill up. We met 6 men and 1 woman from Zambia who are here for the Marathon. One of the men came in 5^th in the Kili Marathon in February. Their coach will join them for the race.

Mandy asked if I wanted to go into town to an outdoor concert. She was antsy for some social life as her Peace Corps placement is an isolated area in Mozambique. The concert featured local pop and traditional singers and dancers. Mandy had gone white water rafting the day before and we met one of her guides and his friends. It is common to be asked “Where are you from?” One of the locals introduced himself and jokingly said, “I am from China”.He turned out to be a great guy and we hung out with him several more evenings. Later in the evening fireworks lit the sky, followed by a water spray that was supposed to mimic the Falls. However, the water soaked the stage and blew out the sound system ending the evening’s festivities.

Saturday, Aug 25

Mandy and I packed a lunch and spent the day at Victoria Falls National Park. Vic Falls is classified as one of the 7 natural wonders of the world and exceeded my expectations of its natural beauty. While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, it is reported to be the largest. It is over 5,600 feet wide with a height of 354 feet, forming the largest sheet of falling water in the world. 

Rainbow

If you look closely in the center
you can see a bungee jumper (NOT me)

 

 We treated ourselves to chocolate milkshakes at the park. For dinner we decided to get our carb load for the marathon and ate pasta in town.

That evening a number of guests gathered around the campfire. The group included ayoung man from England, 2 families from Namibia, and a gentleman from Italy. Conversation was lively and interesting. I often think that people from other countries know more about our politics than we do. It is fascinating to hear how others view the US. Our health care system and the upcoming presidential election are hot topics as well as the world economy.

Every person I have met has asked “What are you thinking?” when referencing the stalemate on universal health care. I was told that we are the only Western developed country without this type of health care(fact check, anyone?). One man remarked, “It is not socialism, it is a human right.” In terms of the election all were supporters of Obama but think it will be a close election. An interesting comment by the Italian was that even the more conservative political groups in Europe are closer in philosophy to the Democrats than the Republicans. (I am just reporting content not personal opinion, although I shared my views as objectively as possible!)Another discussion topic was concern over China’s emerging role in the world.China is a major player in many African countries.

Sunday, August 26

Mandy and I headed for the Marathon around 6:00 am. The number of runners was much smaller than I expected, maybe 500 people total.I had not trained well and knew my time would be pathetically slow. Mandy and I really only cared about finishing and getting a shirt.

The course was quiet and picturesque. We ran over the bridge which overlooks part of the Falls. I ran most of the race alone. I thought that might make it mentally tougher but the scenery was so pleasant that I rather enjoyed the solitude of nature on both sides of me. I passed a sign that said “Elephant Crossing”. I did see baboons but they are as plentiful as tourists.

I was not physically prepared and knew that I would walk a large portion of the course. The first 8-9 miles went ok. Water stops were plentiful with wet sponges and sprinklers available. The day was hot reaching 90 degrees. I only had to take one potty break in the bush. Running through an area of cabins I found a structure that looked like an outhouse. It wasn’t, but did provide me protection from passersby! I could hear “Chop My Money” playing at the nearby water stop. (This was a great Tz song that we all loved). I walked much of the last 4 miles which was quite hilly and spent the last mile with a man from England. I finally finished in an embarrassing 3 hours and 15 minutes. I had splurged and bought a dark chocolate bar the day before. I had frozen it so that by the time I finished the race it was melting in my mouth!

It turned out that the sponsor for the half marathon was a different company than the sponsor for the full marathon.  My shirt only had a Zambezi Beer Logo on it and no print indicating participation in a race. This was not acceptable!! I met some staff from the company sponsoring the full marathon and they kindly gave me a shirt. I also met a couple from Pennsylvania who had been biking through Southern Africa. They arrived in Vic Falls 2 days ago unaware of the marathon. The woman decided to run the half and got 4^th place. So much for training! I hung out with the Zambia racers and met their coach. He was from the US and had run for Dartmouth College. Turns out he raced against Neal and knew his reputation as a runner. Can the world get any smaller??

Mandy, me & Zambia Runners

Mandy finished the full in a little over 5 ½ hours. The thought of walking even a mere 15 minutes to Backpacker’s sounded grueling. Fortunately we ran into Arnold, one of the owners of Vic Falls Backpacker, and he gave us a ride home.The rest of the day we hung out relaxing and cooling our legs in the pool.

A  Marathon evening after-party was hosted by an area boat club. Mandy and I stopped by and tried Zambezi beer, a locally made beer and sponsor of the half. (Since I had finished my parasite meds I could finally drink.) We sat by the dock watching the sunset over the lake and played with a lively 6 year old. We then returned to town and as usual ran into China and another of his friends, Moses, who was possibly as short as me. We all danced and then sat for a beer.  The next thing I know,  Moses is sitting rather close to me and then proceeds to put his arm around me. I ask his age and learn he is 25. I share that is the age of my daughter. Mandy sees what is going on and we all start talking about our ages and how I am old enough to be his mother. He leans over and whispers in my ear, Love is blind. OMG, Only here could I be hit on by a 25 year old!!

Monday, August 27

Siblings

I was picked up at 6:30 am by a bus that took about 20 of us to the Walk with the Lions. The park is a research, rehab and release center for lions with a focus on conservation education. At the park we were split into two groups. Our group consisted of a couple from Chicago, a mother and daughter from LA, a woman from England and 5 people from France. Several guides, one with a gun and a belt full of bullets, accompanied us. “Just in case,” they told us! 

Five minutes into our walk we encountered two lions, a brother and sister, aged 13 months. The guides were very professional and the rules understandably strict. We were told how to approach the lions, and where and how to crouch to pet them. We all carried sticks which were supposed to be used if the lion tried to “playfully” jump on us. Fortunately no one had to use their stick – hard to imagine how effective it would have been.

Just taking a Leisurely Stroll

We spent an amazing hour interacting with the lions. Of the many tourist adventures I could have chosen I am so glad I decided on the Walk with the Lions. Being in the presence of these remarkably powerful beasts produces a humbling respect for all animals and nature.

It just doesn't get any better than this!

Eating Elephant poop - Very Nutritious

Having too much FUN!

 

After returning home I went to the area health clinic to be retested for parasites. The doctor advised me that Livingstone, Zambia was the closest clinic with a lab. Because Zimbabwe is not allowed to carry cultures across the border, I would have to go there for testing. This would be a 60 mile trip and involve another Visa. Since I was leaving tomorrow this was not possible. I explained my current symptoms. The doctor and nurse consulted, deciding to give me additional meds as they thought I might still have parasites. I was advised to get tested as soon as possible. I was given an injection of an antibiotic plus additional antibiotics in pill form. I never envisioned learning about health care in developing countries through first-hand experiences. I have been to more doctors in the last 3 months than I have in the last 5 years in the US.

Later in the day Mandy and I walked to the outskirts of town to a local market which was similar to the Second Hand market in Soweto. We were the only mzungu and we both remarked how we felt we were back in Africa again. Tourist towns often lack the true local flavor of a culture. I prefer to be among the locals when I have the choice.

We treated ourselves to ice cream before heading home. Instead of a drive-thru, the ice cream store had a walk-thru with 4 steps up to a window and then 4 steps down. It reminded me of an Escher drawing until I realized its purpose.

Dan & Jen arrived at Backpackers yesterday who are also staying at Backpackers. They joined Mandy and I for my last night in Vic Falls. Shoestring Backpackers was our watering hole for the night.  I initially planned to stay there but they were booked. It was a great place to sit out under the stars and enjoy a drink but I am glad I did not stay there. Shoestring caters to a younger, party crowd with a bar open all day and music playing every nite into the early morning hours.

Dan & Jen are from San Francisco and traveling thru Southern Africa. We watched videos of them in an enclosed tank encircled by sharks in the ocean off the coast of South Africa. Tomorrow they are going to the Zambia side of Victoria Falls, where one can lay in designated areas of water at the edge of the Falls.  I really wanted to do this but the cost was prohibitive and I would also have to pay for a Zambian visa.

I discovered that Dan‘s parents came to the US from Vietnam in the 70’s after the fall of Saigon. Because of his father’s involvement in military intelligence, it is likely his father would have been killed if he stayed in Vietnam. I shared my experiences working at Ft Chaffee, Arkansas in the 1975 when the first groups of Vietnamese were airlifted to the states and my subsequent job directing a state refugee health program for incoming refugees.

Tuesday, August 28

Victoria Falls was beautiful and relaxing. I met a lot of great people and could return there in a heartbeat. It was well worth the geography lesson. I will miss Mandy. We both remarked that being together made our visit to Vic Falls even better than expected. She has family in Indiana; so we will hopefully plan a visit. In the meantime, there is always Facebook.

I am off to Uganda with another layover in Johannesburg. Waiting in line at the Vic Falls airport I saw the couple I met at the marathon who were from PA as well as the Chicago couple from the Walk with the Lions.

As previously informed, there was a tourist Info desk at the Johannesburg airport. I found a guesthouse for much less than my first stay and airport shuttles were included in the price this time.

Wednesday, August 29

Back to the airport for my flight to Uganda. I have no idea what to expect in Uganda. I am looking forward to something completely different and have a feeling I won’t be disappointed.