Connecting the Continents: Weeks 22 & 23

July 16-July 25

July 17- I felt sick today with some nausea and stomach cramps. Not being a huge fan of drugs or going to the doctor (no matter what country I am in) I took some Echinacea and drank ginger tea. I progressively got worse and will not disgust you with graphic details. However, I cannot remember being sick like this in years. I finally went to the Jaffery Medical Center In Moshi on Friday.

Jaffery Medical Services

I have found that it is always best to enter a situation or new experience with little or no expectations. Things always turn out better that way. My blood pressure was a bit lower than normal. The nurse appeared concerned and recommended drinking coffee for 4 days and then rechecking it. I like coffee; but the thought of adding coffee to stomach cramps sounded disastrous. I knew they would check for malaria and thought it would be a pin prick until I saw the needle. I have small veins and typically it takes several tries to hit the vein. The nurse nailed it on the first try. I was truly impressed and told her so. They ran a malaria and blood test. I also had to provide a urine and stool sample. I was given 2 containers and sent outside to the back of the building where the “outhouse” was located. No surprise, it was a squatty potty.

The good news is that I was negative for malaria and parasites. My diagnosis was a bacterial infection and urinary tract infection (which surprised me because I had no symptoms). I was given an antibiotic and pain medicine/anti-inflammatory. I think the antibiotic made me sicker than the infection. The stomach cramps slowly subsided but the nausea got worse. Molly had some anti-nausea medicine which I took on Saturday and threw up 30 minutes later. I have started feeling better since then and am back on the road to recovery. It is a bit scary getting sick in a foreign country. The health center I went to was recommended by Nie and Ibrah. Considering what I have seen and know about health care here I was resistant to go at first but knew by Friday that I really had no choice. I was well taken care of and the staff were kind and professional. Total cost in US equivalency = $3.18 to register as a new patient; $7.30 for all the tests; and $5.10 for the meds.

Veronica w Her New Glasses

July 20 - Since I spent most of this week home being sick I only worked with TAFCOM on Friday. I needed to get away from my 4 yellow walls. I wanted to visit Mwamini and Veronica. I promised Veronica that I would give her a pair of reading glasses. (I brought an extra pair.) She beams when we visit and I always get a hug. We took pictures and I will be making a copy for her. She wants a picture of the two of us together to remember me by. Veronica’s faith has always fascinated me. I discovered on this visit that she was raised in a strong Catholic family. Religion has always been important; she does not know how she could have survived her life without it. Veronica always mentions God or Jesus in conversation, as a blessing or when she thanks us for visiting and bringing things for her. Often times she holds my hands, speaking softly; I can almost feel what she is saying. More often than not I am brought to tears, despite the fact we speak two different languages.

Another emotion that is difficult to express is how loved and protected I feel here. Suffice it to say that I cannot fathom the thought of not returning here. This place feeds my soul.

Molly left to climb Kili on Saturday with Mussa as her guide. He was so concerned when he found out I was sick that he has called me twice from the mountain to see how I am. Of course, I also get to talk to Molly and hear how she is doing. Two volunteers just finished their climb and are spending several days recuperating here. I have been able to share some of their stories and recommendations with Molly. I have no doubt she will make it to the top. A close friendship has developed in a very short time.

The relationships that develop between volunteers are unique. An instant bond forms because we are in a foreign country and our intentions are fundamentally the same. Beyond that, the awareness that our time together is limited, results in more intellectual and stimulating conversation. I love hearing the stories and have been lucky to meet such interesting people. We exchange email addresses and invite each other to visit.

Two young men (age 26) visited recently for a few days. Mike and Amul have been friends since they were 11 and went to the same university in England. Amul’s parents were born in Africa; he was raised in Luxemburg and England. He currently teaches math to Form 4 Secondary (senior high school) students in Kenya.

Amul owns a car and went to visit friends in Arusha. While there he needed gas for the return trip. His credit card did not work at the ATM. Instead, he exchanged his Kenya currency, filled the car with gas and had 1000 Tsh remaining. Heading back to Moshi, he was stopped for speeding. The officer told him to pay 30,000Tsh. Police will collect the fee at the time of ticketing and issue a receipt. If one does not have enough money the officer can be bribed with less and the funds pocketed. Amul was grateful to have filled the gas tank before meeting the officer. If he paid the fine, there would not have been enough money for gas to return to Moshi. He showed the officer that he had no money and was let go.

Mike volunteered here 6 years ago when he met Ibrah. They remained friends and enjoyed their reunion. During his volunteer stay in 2006, Mike met a young man, Pius, and sponsored his education through Secondary school. They spent Saturday together and we all attended a local soccer tournament together. Mike was pleased with how Pius is doing; but sadly, as is the case with so many, after completing his first year at university, Pius was unable to return because of finances. His family struggles; they have no electricity and eat only 2 meals a day. Some years back his father left causing Pius to miss school to help with his younger siblings. Mike plans to fundraise when he returns to England to help Pius and his family.

It is easy for volunteers to fall in love with a child or family, committing to help financially. Unfortunately, many drop their support after a few years unable to follow through with their commitment. Talking to Mike was refreshing because he is deeply committed to this family. It is not an easy decision for someone who wants to help financially. The dilemma arises in whether it is better to help one family or one person, or to do something that benefits a larger number. It becomes a personal decision that can be different for each person. For me, I want to look at the long term impact. Is it better to buy school books for a classroom or pay school fees for one child? There is no crystal ball to tell me if that child will be successful or if that school book will motivate even one child to set a higher goal for themself.

I consider Mwamini, for example. She has captured my heart. We assisted her so she could move towards becoming self-sufficient. With Rose’s illness and death, she must again start over. We visited Mwamini on Friday. She has malaria and no funds for medicine. Fortunately, her oldest son and daughter returned home to help. The son lived on the streets because he felt life was too difficult at home. He actually showed up at Nie’s house. Never shying away from addressing the topic of responsibility, Nie had a heart-to-heart with him about his family. He is now living at home. Mwamini’s daughter is also coming over every day to help. I am grateful for the donations I have received recently and we will use a portion to get Mwamini back on her feet.

July 21 - Ramadan begins today. It is the Muslim month of fasting; a time of self-discipline, self-control and sacrifice. Muslims refrain from eating or drinking from dawn until sunset. According to Islam, the rewards of fasting are many, but in this month, they are believed to be multiplied. The act of fasting is believed to cleanse the soul and redirect the heart away from the negatives of the world. Ramadan is a time of spiritual reflection and worship. Muslims spend this month slowing down from worldly matters and focusing on self-reformation, spiritual cleansing and enlightenment. They are establishing a link between themselves and God through prayer, kindness, and helping others.

A strong emphasis is placed on empathy for those who are less fortunate. Acts of generosity and giving are encouraged. It is through fasting that one can feel the plight of the poor who go without food as part of their daily life. An offering of gratitude for what one has also plays an important role.

The observation of Ramadan is begun following the start of puberty. Those who are elderly, chronically ill or pregnant are exempt from fasting but, if able, must feed the poor in place of their missed fasting.

Interestingly there have been several medical studies on the effects of fasting. A team of cardiologists in the UAE found that, for people observing Ramadan, there was a positive effect on their lipid profile which means there is a reduction of cholesterol in the blood. Another study, carried out on mice, found that the mild stress that neurons are exposed to during fasting (in humans this would be referred to as mental focus) increases the level of brain-derived neurotrophic factor. This factor causes the body to produce more brain cells, thus improving brain function.

From top left - Fried Eggplant,
Noodles w/ Tomato Sauce & Veggies,
Greens w/ Onions,
Avocado & Small Bananas

I enjoy and appreciate food way too much and not eating makes me cranky. I was talking with the young women who just finished climbing Kili about Ramadan and we agreed that fasting is a way to understand hunger. One remarked that she might want to fast periodically when she has a family to teach her children about hunger in the world. I recalled that being raised Catholic, we always gave up something for Lent. The hardest thing I remember was giving up TV as a young child. I had to laugh because I no longer own a TV and rarely watch it when I do have access. Also, as kids, it was more about “could you do it?” than the spirit of sacrifice in order to understand others who are less fortunate.

July 24 – I am spending most of the week at home still a bit queasy but with time to clean up loose ends for TAFCOM. Today, however, was our last visit with Victoria, the little girl with special needs in Boma. Nie purchased a six month supply of injection medication so that Regina, her mom, can take Victoria to the doctor by herself from now on. Nie and I found her in a tiny room in the back of the building. The landlord plans to raise the rent so she and her 5 children moved to the back of the building until she can move elsewhere. Regina is looking for housing and her business is faltering. In May, Victoria had fallen and was hospitalized. In June, her husband and son, who live in Arusha, both came down with malaria and typhoid fever at the same time. Regina took the two older children out of school and the family of 6 traveled to Arusha to nurse them back to health. Victoria’s developmental progress has been amazing. When Nie first met her 6 months ago she could neither walk nor talk. Except for being extremely thin, she appears fairly normal for a 10 year old. She is walking talking and playing outside by herself. I knew that eventually her development would advance to the point that when she saw Nie it would trigger her memory. This time she associated Nie with the injections. While talking with her mom, Regina was weepy and at one point tried to smack Nie. We hid the bag of meds and needles which seemed to calm her down. Nie is hopeful that Victoria will soon be able to take tablets but is also concerned because she will require a daily dose. Nie noted that the vitamins we bought her several months ago were still unfinished.

July 25 - Molly and Mussa completed their climb today. They allotted 6 days but accomplished the climb in 5. They have called me every day of their climb. It is mind-boggling knowing that cell-phone reception is available on a mountain whose elevation is over 19,000 feet but certainly is a godsend if someone gets ill or hurt. I was not here when Lee Ann climbed but will not forget my reaction when first seeing Kili. We were on the top floor at Kindoroko Hotel, where we stayed a few nights in 2009. The tears began to flow at my first sighting. I was overwhelmed realizing that my daughter reached the top of this majestic natural phenomenon. I understand how Molly’s mom must be feeling since she is not here to celebrate this feat with her daughter. I am living Lee Ann’s climb vicariously through Molly and feel like I have gained another daughter. I am so proud of her. Molly also brought me to tears, especially when she told me she had no doubt I, too, could make it to the top. Bucket List addition: Climb Kili in 2014.