Week 10 - The 3 R’s – Reunion, Religion & Rats

April 20 – April 29

Friday – April 20: Another small world story. For those of you from Marysville you will love this one!!
I had received an email from a friend about a young man, Andrew Zacharias, who is from Marysville and living in Tanzania.  We met Friday for lunch. Amanda came along and we ate at Uhuru Park which is a very nice park with gardens and many small Kiosks with lots of variety of foods to choose. This might be Tanzania’s version of fast food – but a whole lot better not only in taste but quality!

It was so strange talking about Marysville and, of course, it turns out we knew some mutual people. He is related to Kim Zacharias form the Sheriff’s Dept and was high school friends with Tanner Chapman. His mom, Kim, and I are close friends and worked together at Big Brothers Big Sisters.  Andrew has lived here since 2008 starting out with the Peace Corps and then getting hired by his organization, Trees for the Future. http://www.plant-trees.org/ He actually lives about 3 miles from where I live. He was off to another part of Tanzania for work and then heading back to Marysville in May for a few weeks. I asked Andrew what was the most difficult part of living here and he said knowing that no matter how immersed he is in the culture he will always be a foreigner.

After lunch he was meeting some Peace Corps friends and invited us along. We tried our 3^rd Tanzanian beer, Tusker. (Serengeti is still my favorite.) It was a very nice afternoon and great talking with other volunteers. Andrew will be in touch when he returns at the end of May and I look forward to having a “hometown connection”.

Saturday afternoon I went to Mgembe’s outdoor basketball game. Both teams were tough competitors and very good players. After the game, the losing team has to buy pop for the winning team and then they all sit in a circle to discuss any fouls or unsportsmanlike conduct. If a player has done anything negative, the others will call him out on it and there is a punishment. Some players had to do pushups. Apparently last week a guy almost got in a fight and so he had to mow the grass around the basketball court. From what I could observe it was a pretty clean game. What a great concept!

Sunday we took Deborah to KCMC Hospital. She has had a nasty ear infection and cannot hear out of one ear. She has already been to 2 clinics. Unfortunately, there was no doctor available and now has an appointment on Tuesday. While there, Amanda and I were outside playing with Rahim. Two Tanzanian gentlemen asked if Rahim was my son. I said, “No” and they asked if he was a throwaway child. I told them he was loved very much by his parents; that I was living with them; and they were inside waiting on a doctor. I am not sure how prevalent it is but unwanted babies are sometimes left at hospitals and on doorsteps of orphanages. So sad to think about the number of unwanted children around the world, the US included.

That afternoon Amanda and I went to Moshi for some Zanzibar Pizza. It more resembles a calzone than pizza and is one of my favorite foods (plus it cost under $2.00). We stopped at the ATM and the bank ate my credit card. That was kind of nerve-wracking. I was told by the guard to come back on Monday to retrieve it. All banks/ATM’s have armed guards. I remember my first time here, seeing the armed guards and feeling a bit disturbed. It has now become the norm and I feel very safe. As mzungu we are warned of robberies and pickpockets, and what precautions to take. I do not carry a purse and usually pin a small pouch for money inside my skirt.  I have been fortunate but have heard stories. A friend of mine once had someone approach her with a machete, slice her purse and run off with it. She was not hurt. (Machetes are commonly used in the fields so it is not uncommon that someone would have one.)

Monday I went to town and got my debit card back. It was quite an easy process. I just showed them my passport and signed a ledger. I made sure they did not write the card number and was on my way!

3 week old baby Rose

Victoria & Mom

Today was our monthly trip to Boma to take Victoria for her shot. She only got one shot this time so it was nowhere near as traumatizing as the last time. I could not believe the improvement in this child. She is almost walking perfectly and was much more verbal than last time. Her mother just had her 6^th child, Rose, 3 weeks ago so we took her a blanket. I discovered that Rose’s bladder is well-developed. While holding her she peed and it went thru my skirt and soaked both front and back. I was wishing I had brought diapers instead of a blanket.  We all had a good laugh and as they say often, “Oh well, This is Africa”.

Victoria’s family (mom and 6 kids) live in one room of a rental building. I would guess the room to be no more than 14x14 ft.  It was dimly lit with only one small window for light. There was a double bunk bed that had been purchased by a volunteer last year. There were a few plastic chairs and a number of buckets taking up the rest of the space. There is no electricity or water and they share a communal outhouse. The steps leading up to building were blocks and stones piled on one another.

Nie discussed family planning with mom and she is in agreement to go to the clinic for birth control. There is a cost and she has no funds so Nie will get the funds to her. Get this… Tanzania has this program where you can register your phone so you can send money to people. You go to an agent give them the money; and they program it into your phone. You then send a text to the person and they go to an agent, show them the amount and receive the funds. How amazing is that!!!!!

Receiving Micro-Loan

Tuesday we made home visits in Pasua. Amanda accompanied us. This was a productive and satisfying day because we gave out 2 micro-loans, paid school fees and got to see Veronica! As a point of reference, TAFCOM gave out 20 micro-loans in 2010. Each loan was in the amount of 100,000TSh (about $70) Only 2 women did not repay in full due to family emergencies. However, they had repaid 60 & 70% respectively. The repayment plan for micro-loans will now include a small amount of interest to be set aside for emergency assistance if needed.  

Juma 

We stopped to see how Juma is doing with her charcoal/firewood business. Her smile in the picture speaks volumes! We told her we would also pay her daughter’s school fees. Juma showed us her report card and it was all B’s!! Considering her history which includes her father and brother’s deaths, losing their home and her mother’s depression’ I would think she is doing quite well. Although the curriculum is not the quality of the US, Juma’s daughter enjoys school and works hard.

Last but never least we visited Veronica. She was feeling much better and I was able to start her life history.  I gave her copies of the pictures we took of her and she was ecstatic. Veronica said I was the #1 volunteer and invited me to move to Tanzania and stay with her. She warms my heart with her upbeat and loving nature.

Eating the African Way - With My Hands

Amanda and I stayed in town and went to lunch at the Chagga Grill. It was recommended as one of the better restaurants for authentic African food. I ordered Ugali, greens and cabbage salad. What we discovered was that it was no better than what we get at home!! Who needs restaurants when Deborah’s cooking is so outstanding?

Amanda with Tingatinga painting

We then ventured over to an Artist Cooperative. Hard to describe but it is numerous open hut type buildings where artists both create and sell their goods. The setting is gorgeous with lush greenery. Bartering is the norm and Amanda bought a Tinga Tinga painting. This genre of art is named after its founder, Tanzanian painter Edward Tingatinga and is quite unique.

Wednesday Nie, Mary and I visited the local Red Cross. My first job after college was with the Columbus Red Cross so I was very interested in learning about their programs. They are involved in First Aid, Family Planning, and a refugee camp in northern Tanzania. Our area of interest was their home-based care for those with chronic illnesses. The program sounded very much like what TAFCOM is doing but on a larger scale. We were told that Red Cross’ funding for Home-Based care ends in 2014 and the program will then be run by the government. Evidently the government determined that AIDS was classified as a “disaster” in 2002 and made funding available. The funding will end because the government no longer considers AIDS in “disaster” status. WHAT!!!!!! According to the World Health Organization, over 6.5 % of Tanzanians age 15-49 are living with HIV. Tanzania has a population of 45 million. There are over 1 million orphans (children 0-17) as a result of parents dying from AIDS.

On my way home I stopped at Abbas bakery and bought a chocolate muffin for Boniface, my Personal Trainer. He definitely enjoyed it and I explained a Muffin Top (love handles). He got a big kick out of this and proceeded to pinch one of the girls in the waist and say, “Muffin Top”.  She laughed and I told him that very few, if any, women in the US would have responded so kindly!!!”

Thursday Amanda and I returned to the Upendo Orphanage. All the kids were in one room singing and there was no one to explain what was going on. The staff and children then proceeded outside and we were invited to join them. Someone was videotaping while they sang. Afterwards, I asked one of the men what was going on and learned they were taping a Gospel music video. Stay tuned… I may have just had my 15 minutes of fame!!

We had about an hour play time with the girls. Mostly they climbed all over us and bounced on our laps. Amanda and I talked about life at an orphanage on our way home, mostly wondering; Do you miss something if you never had it?   I was thinking about Rahim who screams when he wants his mom and no one else will do. These kids will never know that special mother/child bond; will never know their siblings; will never have a parent tuck them in at night; will never have a parent who will sleep with them during a storm; will never hear their cheers above the crowd at a sporting event; will never walk down the aisle with their father.

Friday was spent at the Children’s Center planning for crochet and English lessons for the girls at the Tailoring Center.

WARNING – The following may be too disgusting for some of you. Proceed at your own Risk!!!

Sunday I was at Mussa’s store sitting on a chair in front of one of the shelving units. Mussa was on a bench getting some items from the top shelf above my head. I felt something lightly hit my head and when it hit the floor and scurried off I realized it was a rat!!! I was quite proud of how I handled myself – no screaming. I calmly asked Mussa if it really was a rat that just fell off my head and he confirmed that it was. I said ok I am going home now!!

Three’s the charm!! My first encounter with a rat was when I was walking with Rahim and saw one dead in the road. Then during a home visit I heard a squeaking sound and asked Mary if there was a chicken in the house. She told me it was not a chicken but a rat. Fortunately I did not see it.

Another disgusting tale (no pun intended) from this week occurred Thursday morning while working at home. After breakfast I had taken a muffin back to my room for a snack before working out. I was working on the computer, not paying much attention as I took a bite. I then noticed there were small ants crawling all over my muffin. I jumped up and spit my bite into the toilet. (These ants are a major problem here and they were on our honey jar the same morning. We often see them crawling on the table at mealtime.) I couldn’t even count how many I killed. Trust me they will never be on the endangered list. I can think of so many better ways to get protein but am sure this was not the first time I have eaten them.

My son was most comforting by reassuring me that people all over the world eat ants. He also offered an interesting fact on why I should not be overly concerned about killing them: There are more ants on Earth than humans and that’s a comparison by WEIGHT. That’s right. If you put all the humans on one side of a scale and all the ants on the other side, the ants would weigh more.

And so with these fond memories I bid you Nzuri Hamu (Good Appetite)!!!!

Week 9 - More Questions than Answers

 April 16 – April 20

We are looking at expanding TAFCOM’s micro-loan program for small businesses as this seems like an empowering way to provide a more stable income for the women of Pasua and their families. At the least, families will be able to pay for food and rent. We hope that eventually money can also be saved to cover school fees for their children. We have decided to add a small interest rate that will be set aside in case of emergencies. One of the most difficult obstacles occurs when someone becomes ill. Unless there is another family member to help, the business must temporarily shut down meaning there is no income until the person is well again.

In addition, we will try to organize a workshop on business management, budgeting and saving. As we have been updating the home-based profiles I have become aware that there are many women who could benefit from a micro-loan. I feel that this strategy is the best way to increase a family’s chance of improving their lives. Each loan is for 100,000 TSh (approx. &70 USD) with 5% interest. Loans are paid back in either a 6 or 12 month time frame.  Of all the profiles I read, every one of the women had repaid 100% of their loan.

Tuesday we spent visiting our families. Juma has everything in place to start her charcoal and firewood business. We provided her with the startup funds. It was the first time I have seen her smile. She was so grateful. She also said that she had been using the wrap on her leg and it is helping. I asked Nie to find out if Juma’s daughter’s school fees were current and they are not. We will help with the fees next time we see her. Her daughter is a very good student and enjoys school. We will return next week to see how her business is going.

We were going to start our life history with Veronica but when we got there she was in bed and two neighbors were there. Her breathing was very labored. The neighbors had taken her to the hospital but they neither had the medicine or the injection she needed. The one neighbor is able to give her the injection so we gave him funds for both. We did not stay long because she was tired and not feeling well. We are taking pictures for the profiles and when we asked Veronica she said that other volunteers had taken her picture but no one had given her a copy. I promised to make sure she has her own picture and we agreed to come back next Tuesday. Tonight Nie will return to Veronica’s with her inhalers. We are buying two so she has an extra.

I asked Nie how Veronica could raise two grandchildren with her health being so poor. There are neighbors who provide support and look in on the family but the children are basically raising themselves. They are 4 and 11.

Ester was not home so Nie left a message with a neighbor to have her come to Nie’s house. We want to make sure there is another food stand nearby so she can expand her business.

Salma and Daughter at Food Stand

Salma, her daughter and granddaughter were all outside by their food stand and Nie spoke privately with Salma.  We are going to put a plan together for a microloan so Salma and her daughter can expand their existing business and the granddaughter will help and hopefully save for school. The money that is repaid will also be set aside for the granddaughter to eventually attend hotel management school.

I talked with Nie about the feelings of hopelessness and discouragement. She said that for many people this is a constant state of mind. It is only when a person knows where their meals are coming from for several days that they can think about the future. She reiterated that they all want schooling and a better life for their children. It is so difficult when they can’t afford to continue a child’s education past primary school. These people have a strength that keeps them going day after day. Faith seems to be very important also and I will explore this topic another time. After our conversation we had been walking in silence for a few minutes when we passed a school. Nie remarked that the children just said, “We all have a right to an education. Good Morning, teacher.”  How fitting!

Boys Holding Hands

Note: On one of our daladala trips (the transportation van) there were 29 people. This is the record so far. I thought it was packed at 27 and could not believe the vehicle stopped and squished 2 more people on. People will hold someone else’s child or their basket of produce if they have to stand. Elbows, shoulders and heads are in everyone’s personal space. It is such an amazing experience. I look forward to my rides. So far I have only had to stand and hunch over for a short while until a seat became available. Personal space is also interesting. I am not sure it is much of a concept. I often see men and boys holding hands or sitting with an arm around a shoulder. Women and girls do the same. No one seems to care how close they get to each other. PDA is frowned upon, however. I have not even observed signs of affection between Ibrah and Deborah. That being said, they have what appears to be a very strong relationship.

Children with Porridge

Wednesday we went to the Children’s center. I finished up with some pictures we needed and read to the kids. It is always refreshing to spend time with them. Their smiles are infectious!

When we returned from the Children’s Center we stopped at Mwezi Hospital to visit Mwamini and Rose. (the 9 month old baby discussed last week) Rose has pneumonia and an intestinal infection. She is on some kind of IV drip. (I don’t think much is shared by the doctors and nurses because it there is very vague information about her care.) Mwamini is unable to go home as there is not staff to watch over the or feed the children. Nie visited the family the previous evening and found the children to be alone. She contacted the 17 year old daughter and firmly informed her that she has to be responsible for these children while her mother is in the hospital and she should also go see her mother. Nie also made it clear to Mwamini that she needed to tell her daughter to look after the children. There are some neighbors currently checking on the children, making sure the house is safe at night and the children get up for school. Nie has provided food and we will support the family until they can get back on their feet. Because she is at the hospital, Mwamini is unable to sell her soaps.

Rose was wrapped in the blanket we gave her but was dressed in light clothing. Mwamini explained that Rose had vomited on her only sweater. Nie and I gave her all the money we had so she could buy food.

After returning home I went to the market and bought some baby clothes and a small stuffed frog.

Thursday – It has rained very hard the last two nights which is much needed. Many people say they enjoy the rainy season because there is so much sunshine at other times of the year and they welcome the change! That would certainly not be my way of thinking…

We returned to the hospital with the clothing and Mwamini was grateful and said they would definitely fit Rose. The ward was being cleaned so all the people were out of the room. Rose looked better today. Her eyes seem clearer and she is more alert. How conflicted Mwamini must be not really knowing how her children at home are doing mixed with the concern and uncertainty of Rose’s health.

Upendo Orphanage

New Blankets for Infants at Upendo

Amanda and I went to Upendo Orphanage this afternoon. We will volunteer on Thursday afternoons. It is a Catholic orphanage and although lacking in many things, it is much nicer than any I have experienced in the past. There are 55 children ages birth to 5 years old. 22 are under 2 years old and there are 4 infants. They employ 6 staff who work directly with the children and also have students from an area child care training center. We had a tour and then spent some time with the kids. They totally hung all over us fighting for any inch of body space they could get to.

Friday  - Went to the hospital and brought diapers. Rose did not look so good and Mwamini appeared very weary. Apparently the blood test done on Thursday showed something and Rose will be transferred to KCMC on Sunday or Monday after she has completed the current round of IV medicine. (still don’t know what it is) The diagnosis is also unknown; Mwamini will be meeting with the doctor. Nie told Mwamini that she must take care of herself to be strong and able to care for Rose. Nie will visit her Saturday and Sunday.

This was an emotional week so I stopped at a coffee house Friday afternoon for a snack and journaled most of what follows:

Laundry Facility at St. Joseph's

Wheelchairs

Mawezi Hospital is a government run hospital. Tanzania also has private hospitals but most of them also receive some government support. My visit to St. Joseph’s (private hospital) was a step back in time but this was deplorable. Unfortunately it would have been awkward taking pictures. The pediatric ward had 18 beds. They were metal and very old with a foam mattress, a pad and one sheet. Nothing else is provided and the family member must be with the child at all times. There are food vendors at the entrance to the hospital so families can buy food for themselves and the patients. However, since the children cannot be left alone (especially babies), Mwamini must take Rose with her each time she makes a purchase. The child has pneumonia and it has rained this week so it has been damp and there is a chill to the air. Also when the ward is cleaned, which is daily, the families and patients must wait outside or in another area.

As trained and experienced as I am in social work, I cannot imagine the emotional toll this kind of work must take on Nie. It is so very painful. She says that sometimes she just has to stop everything and walk away for a while. I am fortunate in that I can pace myself in terms of my exposure. Nie is only 35 but one of the wisest and strongest women I have ever known. She is one of the unsung heroines of the struggle to end poverty.

How can anyone understand this when we don’t live it? What kind of world do we live in that allows people to live in these conditions while others flaunt their jewels and fancy cars? I never knew the depth of my compassion until I came here. The compassion I feel has also given rise to an even stronger feeling of love for these people. I sometimes wish I could just hold the whole nation in my arms and gently rock them into contentment.

I remember well that when returning to the US after my previous (and very short) trips, I had difficulty with feeling sympathy for the struggles of some Americans as they seemed petty and irrelevant. I want to embrace my current feelings of compassion and love and be able to carry them with me for all situations I encounter. I do understand that everything is relative and hope that I can continue to hold onto these feelings at home with the knowledge that everyone experiences life differently and we are all at different places on the roads of our lives.

I have always had trouble with our materialistic consumer-driven society so I know that this will continue to be bothersome. I may have to learn to bite my tongue and staying away from TV definitely helps. The other day the TV was on during lunch. The program featured various new and innovative products from somewhere in Asia. One item would help with arches and leg muscles. The concept was the same thing as standing on the stairs and raising and lowering your arches. Hard to imagine you could not find stairs or a curb for this one. Next was a segment on rulers. They were made with various materials; what I would call “designer rulers”. I would love to have seen the prices as I am sure the cost of one could have fed one of our families for a week.

While at the Aroma Coffee House journaling a woman walked by with her young son (5 or 6). I said, “Jambo” so she stopped and helped her son practice his greetings. He was pretty shy but did a good job. Greetings are very important here and always take place before any other exchange, even in stores. It is also fairly common that a mom will encourage their child in a greeting with a muzungo. It feels as good as a hug!!!

So I will end this week with hugs to all……….. and these words from a favorite website of mine. (www.dailyword.com) Each day presents a different affirmation.

World Peace

I hold in my heart the same teaching shared by all the world's religions: to treat others with the same loving-kindness I would like to receive myself. I am gentle and loving to the people I encounter, and I know consciousness will be shared with others. 

Mt. Kilimanjaro from Moshi

It matters not where someone lives, how they dress, what language they speak, or how they worship. The differences that divide us pale in comparison to the similarities we share. We all grieve losses, celebrate joys, love our families, and hope for better days for our children. I value the lives of my neighbors around the world. The peace we all wish for depends upon the attitude and actions of each one of us. When I treat others with the same loving-kindness i would like to receive, I contribute to that peace.

Week 8 - Staying Healthy Physically & Mentally

April 9 – April 15

The big news this past week was the untimely death of Tanzania’s most beloved actor, Steven Kanumba, age 28. According to reports he died after a fall involving an argument with his girlfriend. It has taken up most of the news for several days and his funeral was attended by over 30,000 people.

I tried running over the weekend and it felt pretty good but the track is muddy and slippery. There is a gym in Soweto so I stopped in to see about joining. It was very clean and most of the equipment (treadmills, ellipticals, bikes) looked decent and up-to-date. They have weights and a couple work out machines. It’s not quite the Y but definitely suits my needs! I decided to splurge and get a 3 month membership. There is an aerobics class 5 days per week. I go around 1:00 and then return at 5 for aerobics. No one is there during the day and the trainer works with me like I have my own personal trainer. Really makes this place a bargain! The best part is that it is much safer for me running on a treadmill than at the field except when the electric goes out and it abruptly stops the machine which fortunately only has happened once! The aerobics class is one hour of non-stop movement. Interestingly there are usually about 10-15 of us in class and the majority are men!!

Boniface, the trainer, wants to open his own gym. We talked after my workout on Saturday. He is 32, from Kenya and the oldest in his family. Like in Tanzania, he sends money to his family and also said that as the oldest it is important for him to be successful in order to set the example for his younger siblings. He seems like a very bright young man and I was so impressed when he started talking about the importance of Customer Service. (Lack of it is one of my major pet peeves.) We talked about budgets and marketing and I suggested he talk to the owner of the gym about mentoring him. He loved this idea and was going to follow up on it. Thank you Big Brothers Big Sisters for showing me the importance of mentoring in all aspects of life!!!!

At one point in our conversation he said to me, “Why is it that white people are so much better off and do so well compared to the black people?” His question stopped me in my tracks. He said that many of the people he knows in Nairobi want to go to the US. His question was, “Wouldn’t it be better if they stayed in Africa to make it better here?” I am an optimistic realist but I can also be quite cynical. I told him that life in the US was very difficult for some internationals and there are many people who come with degrees and training from their country and it means nothing in the US. They end up in low-paying menial jobs, live poorly and send most of their money home to family. I said that those who succeed are most likely those educated in the US or recruited by a large corporation. I added that the US definitely has more opportunities and choices but with that comes many more temptations and distractions that can cloud one’s judgment and morals. It is not for me to advise whether someone should leave their country for the US or not. However, I agree with his comment about staying in your country to make it better. Although the flip side is that if you can be successful in America you will have a lot more money to help your country.  

My week at TAFCOM was short because they were closed Monday and I was to work from home on Friday. Mary, a young Tanzanian woman who is studying at the Institute of Social Work in Dar es Salaam, started a 2 month internship with TAFCOM. This is the only school in the country for Social Work. They have a 2 year certificate through to the Master’s level. Mary is in her 2^nd year and is hoping to complete her Masters. She has family in the states living in Wash DC and Columbus, Ohio!! Another example of how small the world is!! I definitely want to meet them when I return.

Tailoring Student with Yoga Bag

Tailoring Teacher with Purse

Nie and I went to the center to take pictures of the women at the Tailoring Center so I can finish their profiles. Teddy and I took the daladala to Pasua and got off at the Bingo stop. I immediately thought of ways we could make educational Bingo games for the kids. We found that making the puzzles from cardboard was more difficult than we thought. The scissors were not good for rounding corners. We tried a knife and razor blade. We decided to make our own pattern with straight edges. Amanda helped and Mgembe cut with the razor blade and did a great job. We were able to complete 4 puzzles. I found a great website for Alphabet pictures so we are going to make a book plus copy some extras for coloring and puzzles. These projects are great fun especially when we all work together. We all have ideas for the Bingo games and hope to get them done by next week.  I can’t wait to see the kids' reactions. Puzzles are very uncommon here and Bingo is not a game they know.

Elephant Puzzle!

Mgembe Cutting Cardboard w/Razor

On the more serious side, I had mentioned previously that when doing the children’s profiles we asked what they wanted to be when they grew up and many of the answers were based on a very limited view of the world and reflected their life and the cycle of poverty. Granted, they are young but ask any American 5 or 6 year old what they want to be and they usually have grand plans! We decided that I would look for coloring pages of as many professions as I could find and we would use them in a variety of formats to educate the children. I found numerous websites with every profession imaginable. What was disturbing to me was that every single caricature was white and the majority were male. Those who know me well can easily guess my reaction. Nie also did not seem pleased with this.

When I was reviewing the pics with Nie we had to eliminate some professions that don’t even have a Swahili translation or that would not be understood. They included professions such as scientist, researcher, counselor, astronaut, accountant, lawyer.  I can only hope that as they advance through school they gain an awareness of the many possibilities available. It is such a double-edged sword because the number who break out of poverty is so small yet inspiring. Many have dreams but with the priority being daily survival, there is no opportunity to save. I often wonder how people deal with their feelings of hopelessness and discouragement.

              

I also started working on a handout about Malaria Prevention that we will translate and distribute with the nets in June. It is now recommended that Insecticide Treated Nets (ITN’s) be used and there is a Long Lasting Net that can be used up to 4 years. We will be purchasing these as the other treated nets only last for 6 months before the insecticide wears off. Research has shown that for every 1000 children protected by ITN’s, 5.5 lives can be saved each year. I do have to wonder if the insecticide could cause other problems but malaria is not something you want to get. The groups at greatest risk of getting sick and dying of Malaria are pregnant women and children under 5. Evidently pregnancy reduces a woman’s ability to fight off malarial infection. Infants and young children are at risk due to their immature immune systems. Worldwide, Malaria kills one million people every year. 800,000 of whom are children under 5 years old.

Speaking of health, Amanda, the nurse volunteer, is working at St. Joseph’s Hospital for the month she is here. (That is where Deborah took Rahim for his one year checkup.) She is spending her first 2 weeks on the pediatric ward. It has 3 rooms with 12 beds in each. 2 rooms are used for children and the other is for women as there is no room on the General Medicine floor. The rooms are almost always full and most of the children are there for malaria or malaria-related illnesses such as dehydration. Pneumonia and intestinal problems are also common and there are a few children with burns. There are 3 shifts for the nurses. 2 nurses and 2 aides work the day shift. The evening and night shifts are each covered by one nurse and an aide. The hospital does not provide meals and visiting hours are arranged around meal times, 3 times per day. This then makes it impossible for the family to have income unless there are other family members able to help provide food for the patient.

The lighting is very poor in the pediatric rooms so the nurses have to take their equipment outdoors to start IV’s on the children. Sometimes the IV needle is reused if the nurse is unable to get the vein on the first try. No equipment is available at bedsides like oxygen or suction machines and there is only one oxygen machine for the whole unit.  Last week the blood pressure machine broke so none were taken. A new machine arrived this week. Blood pressures are not taken on the children because they do not have small size cuffs. Most of the women on the floor are there due to high blood pressure or diabetes.

One day this week when we were in the TAFCOM office a man came in asking for funds to pay for his son’s hospital care and treatment. He had official looking papers and a picture of the boy. He was at KCMC with an enlarged spleen as a result of having a reaction to malaria medicine. When there is a situation that requires an expensive procedure or treatment, the hospital will provide the family with documentation which is then taken to a government official who provides a letter of verification and permission to solicit funds. I gave him 10,000TSh (about $7 USD). I had to sign the paper and noticed that he had collected from about 15 other people with the highest donation being 1500TSh. The cost of the treatment is 850,000TSh. I don’t know what will happen to the boy or how long he can wait for the treatment before other problems arise.

Veronica

Nie, Mary and I visited 5 families on Thursday. We returned to see Veronica who was, as always, thrilled to see us. She had finished her inhaler and was out of asthma medicine. You could hear how labored her breathing was. Nie explained that when it gets like this she needs an injection. We gave her funds to get the injection. Veronica had also told us before that her flashlight batteries were dead so we took new ones. She was very happy as this is her only source of light at bedtime.

We think Veronica is probably in her 80’s. She is raising 2 grandchildren, ages 4 and 13. She had 2 children who both died of AIDS, each leaving a child behind. Both children have tested negative for HIV. They live in 2 rented rooms with no electricity or water. One room contains a couch and table. In the second room there is one double bed.  It is a mud house with dirt floors.

Ester has 4 daughters ranging in age from 2-14. They live in one rented room with no electricity or water. The furnishings include one double bed, a couch and a table. Ester’s husband died of AIDS when she was pregnant with their youngest. She had a successful food selling business but because of a lengthy hospitalization she was unable to maintain the business and now provides a laundry service for neighbors. Ester and the two youngest are HIV positive. We have helped with school fees so they are now current. Nie will talk to Ester about looking for a vegetable stand near her home so she can expand her business and become self-sufficient enough to take care of her basic needs and school fees for the children.

Salama lives with a daughter and her two children, ages 20 & 15. They all live in a one-room windowless mud home with a dirt floor and no water or electricity.  There is one small bed, one chair, and a few wooden stools. Salama’s daughter moved in after an extended illness which caused Salama to lose her milling job. She and her daughter sell fish, vegetables and charcoal. The 20 year old granddaughter helps also. She finished primary school and because of a lack of income was unable to attend secondary school. She would like to pursue hotel management. Nie and I talked a lot about what is most practical and economical for the granddaughter. It is expensive to attend the hotel training but it would bring a better income to the family in the long term. However, Salama and her daughter need to first expand their business in order to make ends meet.

I spent a lot of time thinking about their situation because I want to help but I also know the family has to have its immediate basic needs met.  It is very hard sometimes deciding how best to help. I try to immerse myself as much as I can but I will never have a total understanding because this is not, nor will it ever be, my daily life. It just drives home for me how very much we take for granted. I rely on Nie and feel that with her guidance we have and will continue to make a huge difference in the lives of the people we help through your donations. It is just very difficult when I think that Pasua is a pinprick on a world map and there are so many more areas just like this and even worse.

I will talk with Nie about a micro business loan for the 20 year old to start her own business and another loan to Salama to expand her business. The payments they make could be set aside and used for the granddaughter’s training after a sufficient amount had been repaid.

I really am a strong advocate of TAFCOM’s microloan business program because it includes training on how to manage a business, budgeting and saving. These are necessary skills even if your income comes from selling soap powder. A startup loan for a business like selling food, charcoal, soap etc. is about $65-70 USD.

It is probably not fair to say one situation is sadder than another but the next story touched my heart.

Juma and her 16 year old daughter rent one room in a divided building with other tenants. There is no running water or electricity; the floor is dirt; and the only light is provided by a small window that measures approximately 12 x 18 inches. The space is cramped, filled by one double bed, a small table, and a few stools for sitting.

In 2011 Juma lost both her husband and 4 year old daughter to AIDS. Prior to her husband’s death, the family had a stable income and owned their own home. Her husband’s parents blamed Juma for the deaths and have ostracized her. In addition, women are not allowed to own property so she lost the family home. With no financial means, Jasmine was forced to rent the small space where she now lives. Nie became involved through the referral of a neighbor. She found Juma to be feeling very hopeless and depressed. Juma has been diagnosed as HIV-positive; her daughter tested negative. Juma is also having an issue with her leg that makes it difficult to walk. She has a wrap and we encouraged her to use it. We offered to set her up in a business and she is interested in selling charcoal and firewood. We asked that she connect with someone who makes the deliveries and we will return next week to get her started.

Rose and her new blanket

Our final visit was with Mwamini. Her laundry business is doing well. She is also selling steel wool and salt. She earns 3-4000TSh per day ($2-2.70). We gave her a blanket for Rose (made by my wonderful friend, Robin). Mwamini explained that Rose has a chest problem and she is taking medicine but it does not seem to be working. She also cries all the time. Nie encouraged her to go back to the doctor today.

Mussa, Niece & Sister at his store

On Friday I went to Moshi with Mussa. He has found honey in bulk for the porridge at the Children’s Center. We were able to get a liter and Mussa will return next week for a 5 liter container. The 5 liter should last a month and I am thrilled to replace the sugar with something more nutritious and flavorful. Mussa shared that he is planning to expand his business. Since he is a guide for Mt Kilimanjaro hikes he wants more supplies that cater to hikers. He is also looking into renting hiking equipment.

Friday night we took Amanda to Glacier Bar. Ibrah, Deborah, Deborah’s brother, Fred and Grace all went. This time I was not the oldest as there was a muzungu couple and the man was celebrating his 64^th birthday. We all danced and at one point a circle formed and these guys took turns dancing and break dancing. They were really fun to watch and they were dancing on their heads and doing flips on a cement floor.

View of Moshi from Kindoroko

Saturday, Amanda and I went to Moshi and visited a curio shop, a batik store and our favorite bakery. We also had juice on top of the Kindoroka Hotel which is one of my favorite spots. Lee Ann and I spent a few nights there in 2009. Saturday night Mgembe took Amanda and me to the Pamela Bar for a beer. This is a local restaurant and bar in Soweto. I have now tried 2 local brands – Kilimanjaro and Serenghetti! Mgembe played pool and won.

Sunday-Mohammed, Deborah, Rahim, Amanda and I took a hike to the Karanga River. It was beautiful. There were quite a few people - some swimming, some washing clothes, others just climbing the rocks and hanging out. It was a very pleasant ending to the week…. Except that when I was scooting down a rather steep incline I put my hand in goat poop!!!!

Karanga River

Karanga River

Mohammed, Amanda with Rahim & Deborah

Rahim Splashing!

Passed this very nice house on way to river. Owned by someone with  money -  a Car Salesman!!                                          

Week 7 - Traditions & Easter

April 2- April 8

The Children’s Center is on holiday for 2 weeks so this week was kind of slow. We also do not work on Good Friday or the following Monday for the Easter holiday.

Jovin - Age 8

Nie and I finished the children’s profiles and they have been put in a nice binder to be used as part of the volunteer orientation.

Nie shared that when Lee Ann was in Tanzania the first time in 2009, she and other volunteers organized TAFCOM’s first fundraising event. The theme was Painting a New Reality.  T-shirts were made and Lee Ann gave a shirt to Nie, asking her to save it until Jovin (son) could wear it. This past Saturday he wore it for the first time. Nie was so proud and pleased to tell me this.

The tailoring teacher accompanied us one day on a buying spree. There is a Rotary Club in Alaska that sells purses made by the tailoring center. Nie had received an order for 25 purses made from batik. The batik is made locally but does not use the traditional coloring and patterns of Tanzania because that is too difficult to do in Batik.

Deborah in Kanga Dress

Kanga Wrap

Traditional clothing is very colorful usually with large patterns. The khanga is unique to Tanzania. The cloth is rectangular and made from pure cotton. The khanga is brightly colored and printed in bold designs. It is characterized by a border all around the periphery of the cloth including a proverb. They are used as scarves or to carry children on their backs or wrapped around the waist over another piece of clothing.

Some examples of proverbs found on Khanga’s:

Wazazi ni dhahabu kuwatunza ni thawabu. — Parents are gold; to take care of them is a blessing.

Sisi sote abiria dereva ni Mungu. — We are all passengers, God is the driver.

Mwanamke mazingira tuanataka, usawa, amani, maendelo. — We (women) want equality, peace, and         progress.

Operated by Foot Pedal

We are now working on profiles on the young women from the tailoring center. They range in age from 15-23. Most have had no secondary school education. One woman never attended school and learned to read and write through the Tailoring Center. Many are single mothers living with a relative who cares for their child while they attend training. The women learn to sew skirts, dresses, shirts, hand bags, purses and blankets. They receive a stipend for the goods that are sold during the 2 yr program. The women gain the skills needed to work as a tailor or operate a small tailoring business. Tailors in Tanzania are also expected to have their own sewing machine so TAFCOM will provide the machines when necessary.

There is no doubt that the rainy season has arrived. “Oh My!” it is a muddy mess. Now instead of tripping over rocks and sliding from the dry dust I get to watch for rocks and slippery slopes!! Although here you don't need much of a slope to find slippery spots.

Since I am not running I decided to spend some time exploring different parts of Soweto. I found a vendor who sells grilled corn on the cob. I promised I would return to buy some. This is the best corn ever and an ear costs about 20 cents. Deborah, Amanda (new volunteer) and I treated ourselves one afternoon.

On Friday Soweto was so alive and colorful with people walking everywhere and vendors selling their foods and other items. Friday is the Muslims primary day of worship plus it was Good Friday so many more people were out and on their way to church. I met up with 3 kids who were going to church and we stumbled thru some English and Swahili. I love the friendliness of the people. There are times when people just pass you by but other times they are so engaging and their smiles are so genuine. They will greet you with “Jambo mama” (mother) or “Jambo dada” (sister) and ask how you are?

Here is a funny example about “being in my element”.

One afternoon Deborah, Raheem and I walked to the field where I typically run. I always pass by a group of women tailors and we exchange greetings in Swahili. I look forward to their cheerful "Jambo's". I was telling Deborah about them and just said without thinking. "They may not recognize me today because I am in a skirt and not my regular running outfit." I then laughed and said, "Oops, I forgot I was muzungu and probably the only white person they see on a regular basis!"

Our walk started out sunny but the rain clouds move in rather quickly here. The sky started to look a bit ominous so we started to head back and before we got out of the gate to the field it was raining. We got pretty soaked but it felt good and I just finished my shower when I got home. It was actually my first warm shower with decent pressure since my arrival – pure bliss.

We had 3 Canadians stay with us one night. They teach at the International school in Abu Dhabi and were on holiday in Tanzania to climb Kili and go on safari. Their life is an extreme contrast to living here. Fortune Magazine claims it is the richest city in the world. It is also of the world’s largest producers of oil. The school has students from over 60 countries and all are from very wealthy families working in Abu Dhabi. They were sharing stories about how the people lived. One of the teachers has a student with 4 other siblings. The family has a cook, house cleaner, driver and EACH child has a nanny. The mother was not employed and I asked what she did all day. The answer was “shop”. They said the decadence and waste is overwhelming. I thinking I find that style of living far more shocking and intolerable than what I see hear. It is far easier for me to work with the very poor than the very rich when they live as described. I am sure it would bring out the worst in me because I find waste and greed to be the worst of all human characteristics.

A new volunteer arrived on Saturday. Amanda is a nurse from Canada. She has just spent 3 weeks traveling with a friend through Egypt, Jordan and Abu Dhabi. It turns out her friend works at the same International school in Abu Dhabi as the 3 Canadians who were here earlier this week and she knew one of them. Can the world get any smaller???

Easter  - so our house is full of different religions. Ibrah and Deborah are Muslim. Did you know that the Muslims study 4 books including the Koran and one of them is the Bible? They do not celebrate Easter. When I asked Ibrah he looked a bit dumbfounded and said why would you celebrate death? We talked some about the meaning of Easter.

The Muslim’s do not celebrate Mohammed's death. Some Muslims do celebrate his birthday but not in the way we do Christmas. (There is no commercialism associated with their holy days.) It is not a big deal because the Muslims have very strong beliefs about worshipping only Allah (God) and not elevating any person to a god like level. They believe Jesus was a great master but not God. 

Mgembe is Lutheran and attended church for Holy Thursday, Good Friday and Ester Sunday. Deborah was raised Jehovah Witness but decided to become Muslim. Her brother Fred and fiancée, Grace, came over on Thursday night all dressed up. I asked what the occasion was and they had been at church. Jehovah Witness believes Jesus died on Thursday and that is their Holy Day. He asked if I wanted to attend his church sometime as it is both English and Swahili and I said I would. (It would have been too rude to say no and should be interesting for sure.) I will also attend a mosque and Christian service while here.

The Christians definitely celebrate Easter as many businesses are closed on Friday and don't reopen until Tuesday. It is usually celebrated with family gathering to share a meal. There was a big flap on the news because the bus prices went way up because so many people travel to see family for the weekend. Sounds like gas prices in the US!  Unfortunately the Easter Bunny does not make an appearance in Tanzania. Nor do they color Easter Eggs. These are more symbols of spring and we are just finishing summer; so I am guessing that is why they do not have these traditions. Plus I am sure it would be seen as an ultra-extravagance here.

I asked if a business was Muslim-owned and Christians worked there what would happen and I was told both religions get off for each other’s holidays. You see people with different beliefs can get along. It is just not that hard!!

A good meal is a great way to end the day. Deborah and I are talking about putting some African recipes in a booklet to sell to volunteers. Here is a sampling of some of the traditional food dishes.

Ugali

Ugali is maize flour and water cooked to a dough-like consistency. The traditional method of eating it is to roll a lump into a ball and then dip it into a sauce or stew. Making a depression with the thumb allows the ugali to be used as a scoop..

Mandazi

Mandazi, made with wheat flour and coconut milk, is a form of sweet fried bread. It has a "fluffy" feeling and texture.

Chapati

Chapati is a flat bread made with wheat flour. It is torn off and used to pick up the meat or vegetable dishes that make the meal. It is folded into a sort of loose cone and used as a scoop to eat the more liquid dishes at a meal.

Sukuma is Kale. It is sauteed in sunflower oil with onions & carrots. Variations include adding peanut butter or grated tomato and coconut milk.

Sukuma

Kabichi & Karoti

Cabbage and carrots are added to heated oil and sauteed for 2-3 minutes. Sometimes onions and tomatoes are added. 

Viazi & Mboga

These are a type of sweet potato unlike what we have but with a delicate sweet flavor. They are deep fried and mixed with any variety of  sauteed vegetables such as tomatoes, onion, green pepper, carots, green beans and eggplant.

NZURI YA KULA (GOOD EATING)